How low are you on your GixxerDrew/Bilstein/Hypercoil setup?
03-01-10, 02:08 PM
#1
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How low are you on your GixxerDrew/Bilstein/Hypercoil setup?
Curious how low people are running their GixxerDrew coilover setups (Bilsteins with Hypercoils).
I read the whole 30+ page thread on SF. Drew doesn't advise any more than 1.5" drop. I'd like to have one finger gap all the way around, but am concerned about bottoming out.
Do you guys run them lower than 1.5" drop? Problems? Need special spring rates?
-Adam
I read the whole 30+ page thread on SF. Drew doesn't advise any more than 1.5" drop. I'd like to have one finger gap all the way around, but am concerned about bottoming out.
Do you guys run them lower than 1.5" drop? Problems? Need special spring rates?
-Adam
06-02-13, 02:41 AM
#4
Curious how low people are running their GixxerDrew coilover setups (Bilsteins with Hypercoils).
I read the whole 30+ page thread on SF. Drew doesn't advise any more than 1.5" drop. I'd like to have one finger gap all the way around, but am concerned about bottoming out.
Do you guys run them lower than 1.5" drop? Problems? Need special spring rates?
-Adam
I read the whole 30+ page thread on SF. Drew doesn't advise any more than 1.5" drop. I'd like to have one finger gap all the way around, but am concerned about bottoming out.
Do you guys run them lower than 1.5" drop? Problems? Need special spring rates?
-Adam
06-02-13, 08:20 PM
#7
To simplify the concept, cars typically gain negative camber as the wheel travels up toward the fender. This is beneficial when cornering. As a general principle, the higher the wheel goes, the more negative camber it gains. This is good for handling.
In real world suspension geometry, many suspension designs start actually gaining positive camber when the wheel tucks up high enough. If you start out with a car that is already 2 inches lower, the proper suspension geometry is thrown out the window and the suspension starts following an extreme that you would never really encounter if the car was at factory ride height.
Bump steer is another phenomenon that is tougher to explain unless you have experienced it. It presents as a 'wandering' feel when you slam on the brakes. As a rough analogy, what camber is to castor, toe is to bump steer. Not sure if that helps but think of it as a sort of 'dynamic' toe that changes when the suspension compresses. Or, in the case of an excessively lowered car, it will occur when braking or when going over rough roads.
In real world suspension geometry, many suspension designs start actually gaining positive camber when the wheel tucks up high enough. If you start out with a car that is already 2 inches lower, the proper suspension geometry is thrown out the window and the suspension starts following an extreme that you would never really encounter if the car was at factory ride height.
Bump steer is another phenomenon that is tougher to explain unless you have experienced it. It presents as a 'wandering' feel when you slam on the brakes. As a rough analogy, what camber is to castor, toe is to bump steer. Not sure if that helps but think of it as a sort of 'dynamic' toe that changes when the suspension compresses. Or, in the case of an excessively lowered car, it will occur when braking or when going over rough roads.
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06-02-13, 09:57 PM
#8
To simplify the concept, cars typically gain negative camber as the wheel travels up toward the fender. This is beneficial when cornering. As a general principle, the higher the wheel goes, the more negative camber it gains. This is good for handling.
In real world suspension geometry, many suspension designs start actually gaining positive camber when the wheel tucks up high enough. If you start out with a car that is already 2 inches lower, the proper suspension geometry is thrown out the window and the suspension starts following an extreme that you would never really encounter if the car was at factory ride height.
Bump steer is another phenomenon that is tougher to explain unless you have experienced it. It presents as a 'wandering' feel when you slam on the brakes. As a rough analogy, what camber is to castor, toe is to bump steer. Not sure if that helps but think of it as a sort of 'dynamic' toe that changes when the suspension compresses. Or, in the case of an excessively lowered car, it will occur when braking or when going over rough roads.
In real world suspension geometry, many suspension designs start actually gaining positive camber when the wheel tucks up high enough. If you start out with a car that is already 2 inches lower, the proper suspension geometry is thrown out the window and the suspension starts following an extreme that you would never really encounter if the car was at factory ride height.
Bump steer is another phenomenon that is tougher to explain unless you have experienced it. It presents as a 'wandering' feel when you slam on the brakes. As a rough analogy, what camber is to castor, toe is to bump steer. Not sure if that helps but think of it as a sort of 'dynamic' toe that changes when the suspension compresses. Or, in the case of an excessively lowered car, it will occur when braking or when going over rough roads.
06-03-13, 07:34 AM
#9
I rolled with about 1.5-2 inch drop with my setup and you will get a lot of negative camber when cornering, enough to wear your inner tire tremendously. Any lower you'll be bottoming out your shocks because you're reducing your shock travel and it will cause damage. ( I recomend 10" spring in the front and 10 in the back and higher spring rates). GD recomends the 8" spring in the front, but I wish you luck 
06-03-13, 07:44 AM
#10
I rolled with about 1.5-2 inch drop with my setup and you will get a lot of negative camber when cornering, enough to wear your inner tire tremendously. Any lower you'll be bottoming out your shocks because you're reducing your shock travel and it will cause damage. ( I recomend 10" spring in the front and 10 in the back and higher spring rates). GD recomends the 8" spring in the front, but I wish you luck
How is in on rough road?
I can still order another set and refuse the recommended sizes and rates if there is some stuff I can read to make me understand why.
Did you make different choices because you wanted the ability to safely go lower?
If so, I also intend to be in the lower part of the safe range so I have interest in your mods. Is this what you have done? Or what you would do if doing it over?
Thank You
SG
06-03-13, 08:02 AM
#11
What spring rates do you have?
How is in on rough road?
I can still order another set and refuse the recommended sizes and rates if there is some stuff I can read to make me understand why.
Did you make different choices because you wanted the ability to safely go lower?
If so, I also intend to be in the lower part of the safe range so I have interest in your mods. Is this what you have done? Or what you would do if doing it over?
Thank You
SG
How is in on rough road?
I can still order another set and refuse the recommended sizes and rates if there is some stuff I can read to make me understand why.
Did you make different choices because you wanted the ability to safely go lower?
If so, I also intend to be in the lower part of the safe range so I have interest in your mods. Is this what you have done? Or what you would do if doing it over?
Thank You
SG
I hope it's going to be firm enough
The reason I'm doing this is so I can go faster around the corners with less corner diving and body roll, oh and less fender scrapage.
It's good right now, but not good enough for me
. I want a race/track car handling
06-03-13, 10:30 AM
#12
I was on 550 front and 325 rear, it was too soft for my likings. Right now I'm on 675 front and the same 325 rear and it's still a little mushy. My next step is 750-800 front and 550 in the rear
I hope it's going to be firm enough
The reason I'm doing this is so I can go faster around the corners with less corner diving and body roll, oh and less fender scrapage.
It's good right now, but not good enough for me. I want a race/track car handling
I hope it's going to be firm enough
The reason I'm doing this is so I can go faster around the corners with less corner diving and body roll, oh and less fender scrapage.
It's good right now, but not good enough for me
. I want a race/track car handling
06-03-13, 05:37 PM
#15
Spring rate doesn't actually affect the quality of the ride as much as people think. You have to go up significantly to notice a difference. Shock valving plays the biggest role. That being said, be careful going with too high of a spring rate. Not sure what Bilstein recommends for springrate on this particular valving but I'll take a wild guess and say it's roughly around the stock supra springrate with a probable safe range of up to 20% higher springrate. Not likely much more than that.
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