Thanks bud

 

Caster spec is 0 . It is the measured as a length difference between the front and rear wheels.

 

anyone have a part # on this kit?

 

0 caster on a lowered car will cause wandering especially on the highway. It is best to go more negative than the factory specified range on this since the front wheels have more of a squat on a lowered car.

 

I replaced the caster arms on my 2000 GS 400 last year, along with the lower ball joints. I used OE Lexus parts. I also replaced the front strut upper caps (made by KYB, my H&R coilovers use the stock top hats), but they didn't really need it.

After an alignment by Clark's House of Suspension, it's like a different car! It's probably dropped about 2.5" or so, but the car drives like new.

 

A good alingment is worth its weight in gold.

While I agree a slight bit of negative caster is ok for straight line issues it is very dependent on the wheels and tires as well for this to be addressed. The biggest factor is the roads themselves where you drive as the more crested it is or repaired causes more issues. Your personal alignment tech should be able to dial it in for each individual car as each one is going to need different specs.

All in all there is no caster adjustment so it is a mute point really for the GS .

 

crap, i gotta do this.
btw, Jan.2003- control arm no2 uses a bushing similar to TRD's with a beefier arm.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ody-brace.html

 

I think I found my front suspension noise. The bushing from the No. 2 lower control arm is cracked. It looks like it's about to pop out. I will update all after replacing my lower ball joints and No. 2 lower control arm.

 

Coco that is true with the larger bushing but i have an 03 so i already had that arm which is more than strong enough.

I also forgot to add my mileage went up by 20% as i am no longer shoveling my wheels down the road.
I was getting 420km per tank and now get 500 (city/hwy) to 600km (more on the hwy) a tank.


With my 70 liter tank
I was getting
420km =16.7 liters per 100km = 14mpg
and now it is
500km =14 liters per 100km = 16mpg
600km =11.7 liters per 100km = 20 mpg

Only other variables are an HKS exhaust and motul 8100 oil until i do a cold air intake and it should be in the 600 range all the time.

 

So the Daizen urethane front control arm kit includes the caster arm bushings? I believe this is what is causing my clunking and creaking from my front passenger side. My front passenger side tire also has excessive outter wear so I think this may be the culprit.

So while changing the caster arm bushing I should also change the lower ball joint? I took a look at all the ball joints on the front passenger side yesterday and they all looked good, didnt really know what I was looking for as far as bushings besides looking for cracked rubber.

 

so OP any part # on kit?

 

Great Thread!! Need too get my front end done ASAP!

 

just got mine in the mail today

 

Update! After installing the lower ball-joints and the new No. 2 lower control arm. It feels more solid now. No more clunk or creaking noise when going over bumps or the drive way. But I still have the mattress sound like noise. So I'm thinking could be the top hats. Even though a got new struts, the place where I took it to probably re-used the old one. :\

 

The best advise I found,on this forum, from skperformance I believe,Was to change out the caster bushings...99 GS 400...to Daizen. I have a 54,000 mile,stock 17s,never abused or winter driven. It always had that stupid little shake...65mph bla, bla. New tires, hunter road force, all the so called fixes. Made me not like my car, I changed out the caster bushings only, shake is gone, rides like a new car. Flawless! Not that hard to do,my local shop pressed in the bushings for me..$32. Thankyou! The stock bushings are low quality to say the least. It should be mandatory to change these before doing anything to the suspension. Factory bushings should be recalled! Thanks again