Here are some tips that would have been helpful to know before I did the Daizen Bushing Install:

1. What comes in the Daizen Bushing Kit:
a total of 8 replacement bushings. The parts circles in RED are repleaced with this kit (Upper/lower control arms bushings).



Many mebers said NOT to install the #6 bushing on the lower control arm. They said it's too stiff for regular road driving. I kept the OEM bushing in that spot, but replaced the other 3 circled bushings.

2. How to remove the Stock bushings WITHOUT a press:I did a two step process, which went by pretty fast.
a. Once I removed the parts from the car, took a BLOW TORCH and melted the stock bushings (i did this over sheet metal because it makes a bit of a mess. I also took other safety precautions since i was using a blow torch). I would put a long screw driver into the bushing metal shaft (the part where the bolt goes through) peirodically and move it back and forth until the metal sleeve broke out.
b. once the metal shaft was out there was still a decent amount of rubber left on the arm. This excess is held on by a metal sleeve that is very thin. I took a Metal Hack Saw and carefully cut the inside of the metal sleeve, then used a screw drive to pop it out. You will then be left with a clean control arm. If the control arm still has rubber suck on the inside, the metal sleeve hasnt been removed yet.

How to install the NEW daizen bushings WITHOUT a press:
a. I bought a long (thick/strong) bolt and large washers. The washers must be bigger than the hole of the control arm otherise it will fall through. It had washers on both ends, then i put the bushing and control arm in the middle and tightended till the bushing was poped into the control arm.

b. To get it to slide in without damaging the bushing i made sure to do the following: Have it compressed squarley (not at an angle), Put A LOT of grease on the lip of the bushing so it could slide through easily, made sure NOT to put the metal shaft into the bushing until AFTER the baushing was install into the control arm. If the metal shaft is put in BEFORE, the bushing can't compress and much and will be harder to get through.

 

did mine yesterday, did #6 drove 200 miles after that and love it no change in harshness at all.

 

Some people say the #6 is a problem and some don't. But more people seems to say it's a problem.

Here is a specific post:

 

i did mine about a month ago and the vibration on the fwy went away

 

while I appreciate the tutorial, please do not heat up any critical metal parts on your car as this would weaken the metal. Please pay a shop to press out the bushing as it not only makes it easier on you in ter s of labor, it prevents the lip on the upper control arms from bending since its aluminum.

 

It did affect my toe greatly before i had .03 toe on both sides after i was at 1.0 on each side. so i did an alignment and everything is great. only reason i could see it following the road is type of tire and steering rack adj. was set to tight. i did adjust my rack 1/8 turn before and didnt like it at all doesnt allow for tire correction without moving the steering wheel in ur hands. so i went to 1/16 turn and much much better.

 

do not keep #6 oem when you have daizens all around. if you're car tramlines after installing #6 bushing, it means something else with your steering/suspension/wheels&tires is wrong.

if you have the steering pretensioner on too tight, it will tramline as well.

 

do not heat the metal!!! this is very very bad...use a press When the metal heats up then cools down, it will weaken the metal severely.

 

I'm still too much of a novice to take part in this DIY but at least now I have a much better understanding... I've had these bushings for about 2 years now... just sitting on my bedroom floor....

 

good sell them to me....lol

 

I'm assuming you haven't tired this method. When i did the metal was cool enough for me to grab it with my bare hands (you heat the center of the bushing NOT THE METAL). I agree, if the metal was actually heated super hot then cooled down back and forth many times that would weaken it. The heat it's exposed to is minimal and is a one time thing.

 

Got to agree , the metal has to turn red hot to start breaking down its tensile strength .
You are burning the bushing not the metal as previously mentioned. Besides if you don't know what your doing ,ask someone and if that doesn't help ,then pay someone.

 

i think removing the busing is the hardest part in this DIY. i just did mine on saturday at my work with hoist and press still took me 4hours front bushings and rack and pinion bushings but it was well worth it. car handles way better now and not even bumpy as before. it was lot worse before the daizen. rubber was too soft and it was starting to crack.my wheels use to go crazy every time i hit some kind of bump. now it more firm and handles way better. also checked my ball joint. leaked little bit but still good. i think stock bushings making them go bad. i have nf210s with 19x8.5 with G35 rear tires on my front and everytime i do reverse and turn the wheel my tire use to hit my fender liner. now it's not even close to the liner that much movement???? im glad i did this mod already now i need alignment even i mark it before R/I lower control arm my alinment was off maybe because stock bushing was sagging a lot and changed my alignment.

ohhh and for the people that makes squicking noise did you guys cleaned and put lots of grease between the surface where the bushing and metal meets???? before i didn't read the instruction properly(i recommend this before you do this mod) and put he upper arm in place to bolt it in. i was kinda jiggling it up and down to match the hole and it was already making noise so i read the instruction again and it says clean and put lots of grease on the surface of the bushing and place where it meets. im sure lots of people know what im talking about but i really didn't see that from any where so if anybody didn't notice that i hope this helps.

 

hey guys, why not just get a small drill bit and drill through the rubber, just keep drilling holes and go in a circle until it just falls out, then i guess all you need to remove is the metal sleeve..

how do you do this with a hack saw without damaging anything?

 

that sounds like a good way to actually IMO,i'm waiting for my bushes to come through the post,and i'll be doing this soon,more than likely do it DIY,and i've got 3 vice's at home which should help me a fair bit!