Will this work?
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Will this work?
Hey Guys,
So I mounted my volks on my 00 gs300 and both the front and rear stick out of the fenders just barely. we're talking a 1/4 of an inch or so. I don't have any rubbing on the front but I do on the rear and this is with the stock suspension. I would prefer to keep the rims but I definately need to roll the fenders and drop. I'm thinking the popular tanabe nf210 springs, kyb shocks and daizen steering rack bushings. I'm also going to change the ***** joints and outer tie rods for good measure at I'm at 70k miles, not to mention I'm still getting a nasty vibration in the steering wheel even after fitting the correct hubcentric rings on my rims. sooooo.... my questions are:
-how difficult is it to roll the fenders on the gs? I was quoted $120/fender by my tuning shop and they said the gs is a pain to roll because of the sound deadening material they fill the fenders with. is this true, or is that price high? is it something many of you have done on your own with success?
-even after rolling my fenders will I still get rubbing after I drop the car since my tires/rims are already barely sticking out? is there anything else I can do to try and prevent that as I really like the look of my current rims on the GS.
-lastly where is the best and lowest priced place to buy:
*Tanabe NF210 Springs
*KYB Shocks
*Daizen Steering Rack Bushings
*Ball joints and Tie Rods
Thanks in advance!!!
So I mounted my volks on my 00 gs300 and both the front and rear stick out of the fenders just barely. we're talking a 1/4 of an inch or so. I don't have any rubbing on the front but I do on the rear and this is with the stock suspension. I would prefer to keep the rims but I definately need to roll the fenders and drop. I'm thinking the popular tanabe nf210 springs, kyb shocks and daizen steering rack bushings. I'm also going to change the ***** joints and outer tie rods for good measure at I'm at 70k miles, not to mention I'm still getting a nasty vibration in the steering wheel even after fitting the correct hubcentric rings on my rims. sooooo.... my questions are:
-how difficult is it to roll the fenders on the gs? I was quoted $120/fender by my tuning shop and they said the gs is a pain to roll because of the sound deadening material they fill the fenders with. is this true, or is that price high? is it something many of you have done on your own with success?
-even after rolling my fenders will I still get rubbing after I drop the car since my tires/rims are already barely sticking out? is there anything else I can do to try and prevent that as I really like the look of my current rims on the GS.
-lastly where is the best and lowest priced place to buy:
*Tanabe NF210 Springs
*KYB Shocks
*Daizen Steering Rack Bushings
*Ball joints and Tie Rods
Thanks in advance!!!
#4
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^thanks. I'll check with my body shop guy for a quote on rolling my fenders. anyone try the old rolling with a bat trick? I've seen the cutting the fender DIY but I'd rather not cut into the sheet metal.
what about the items I mentioned? any good online shops to buy from?
what about the items I mentioned? any good online shops to buy from?
#5
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^thanks. I'll check with my body shop guy for a quote on rolling my fenders. anyone try the old rolling with a bat trick? I've seen the cutting the fender DIY but I'd rather not cut into the sheet metal.
what about the items I mentioned? any good online shops to buy from?
what about the items I mentioned? any good online shops to buy from?
Though there will be some people who will post that they can roll successfully, it is not without risk. If someone will do it for you and guarantee that your paint will not crack over time, feel free to go for it. There are many discussions why people prefer shaving, so don't rule it out until you read up on it.
IMO if just a slight clearancing is needed then fender shaving a 1/4 inch or slightly more is what most people will do. We have NO problems with rust, NO problems with weakening of the fender, NO Problems with fender seams splitting, NO problems with jagged edges as long as the shaving process and the other follow on steps are "Done Right" with the proper tools, etc.
Do an advanced search for "fender shaving" or "Fender rolling". This topic has been discussed many times over the years and you would do much better to read the past discussions than to start the topic over again. Most of the veteran and experienced members have provided good feedback on this topic long ago, so expecting them to all chime in on the same question for the umpteen time is not likely.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 11-07-07 at 04:52 PM.
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The GS has double thickness sheetmetal on the rear fender. The old bat trick works for the front fenders and other cars with a single layer of sheetmetal.
Though there will be some people who will post that they can roll successfully, it is not without risk. If someone will do it for you and guarantee that your paint will not crack over time, feel free to go for it. There are many discussions why people prefer shaving, so don't rule it out until you read up on it.
IMO if just a slight clearancing is needed then fender shaving a 1/4 inch or slightly more is what most people will do. We have NO problems with rust, NO problems with weakening of the fender, NO Problems with fender seams splitting, NO problems with jagged edges as long as the shaving process and the other follow on steps are "Done Right" with the proper tools, etc.
Do an advanced search for "fender shaving" or "Fender rolling". This topic has been discussed many times over the years and you would do much better to read the past discussions than to start the topic over again. Most of the veteran and experienced members have provided good feedback on this topic long ago, so expecting them to all chime in on the same question for the umpteen time is not likely.
Though there will be some people who will post that they can roll successfully, it is not without risk. If someone will do it for you and guarantee that your paint will not crack over time, feel free to go for it. There are many discussions why people prefer shaving, so don't rule it out until you read up on it.
IMO if just a slight clearancing is needed then fender shaving a 1/4 inch or slightly more is what most people will do. We have NO problems with rust, NO problems with weakening of the fender, NO Problems with fender seams splitting, NO problems with jagged edges as long as the shaving process and the other follow on steps are "Done Right" with the proper tools, etc.
Do an advanced search for "fender shaving" or "Fender rolling". This topic has been discussed many times over the years and you would do much better to read the past discussions than to start the topic over again. Most of the veteran and experienced members have provided good feedback on this topic long ago, so expecting them to all chime in on the same question for the umpteen time is not likely.
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#9
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thanks. I appreciate the info. I'll definately research shaving the fenders a little more. as for the pricing the best I found thus far is $250+shipping ($73 to hawaii) for a set of 4 kyb shocks. of course that doesn't include the upper mounts which I guess the GS requires. the lower I found on the tanabe NF springs is $190+shipping ($50 to hawaii). does that sound pretty good?
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Hey Guys,
So I mounted my volks on my 00 gs300 and both the front and rear stick out of the fenders just barely. we're talking a 1/4 of an inch or so. I don't have any rubbing on the front but I do on the rear and this is with the stock suspension. I would prefer to keep the rims but I definately need to roll the fenders and drop. !
So I mounted my volks on my 00 gs300 and both the front and rear stick out of the fenders just barely. we're talking a 1/4 of an inch or so. I don't have any rubbing on the front but I do on the rear and this is with the stock suspension. I would prefer to keep the rims but I definately need to roll the fenders and drop. !