Brake pad replacement
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Arizona
Brake pad replacement
Has anyone changed their own pads on an 350? The dealer told me today that my front pads were shot at 18k miles and that it would be $350 to have them replaced and my rotors cut. I have always done pads on my other cars on my own but didn't know how hard it was on a Lexus with all the extra technology. I was thinking about trying the EBC pads.
Max
Max
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Driver School Candidate
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From: Arizona
The dealer told me the fronts have less than 20% life left and I don't have a way to substantiate or refute that. They have started sqeaking lately which is why I had them look at the brakes. I know the IS brake seem prone to that anyways. I have never added any fluid but I have never heard the brake fluid being low as an accurate indicator of brake pads being toast either.
Pole Position
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Fort Worth, Texas
Hey man my brakes are squeeling coming to a stop and I only have 3000 on my '07. So don't assume just because it's making a noise that they are gone. Many people say to actually make the dealer measure the pads in front of you.. Just my .02 cents tho
Officially, Lexus state the IS pad life may be less than 20k miles, and rotor life less than 50k miles. It's in the sales brochure.
If you replace the pads with the same OEM pads, there is no need to skim the rotors, it will only reduce the rotor's already limited service life. You don't even need to scuff them since the pad material is the same and your brakes are already bedded. Retail for the pads is $59.95 according to Sacramento Lexus. Swapping pads is simple. I would not be keen on paying $350 for this at all.
AFA substantiating their claim, ask how thick the pads are. They are 12.5mm thick from the factory, and minimum thickness is 1mm according to the service manual. I would just ask point blank, how thick are the pads, then gauge how worn they are. If they have 20% left and you've gone 18k with them, you've got another 4500 miles before they reach minimum thickness. Depending on how you drive, that might take a little while. It's at least almost a 5000 mile oil change away.
If you replace the pads with the same OEM pads, there is no need to skim the rotors, it will only reduce the rotor's already limited service life. You don't even need to scuff them since the pad material is the same and your brakes are already bedded. Retail for the pads is $59.95 according to Sacramento Lexus. Swapping pads is simple. I would not be keen on paying $350 for this at all.
AFA substantiating their claim, ask how thick the pads are. They are 12.5mm thick from the factory, and minimum thickness is 1mm according to the service manual. I would just ask point blank, how thick are the pads, then gauge how worn they are. If they have 20% left and you've gone 18k with them, you've got another 4500 miles before they reach minimum thickness. Depending on how you drive, that might take a little while. It's at least almost a 5000 mile oil change away.
Lead Lap
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 560
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From: Fl
As pads wear down, caliper pistons move closer to the rotors thus taking more fluid in the system. You are not losing fluid, after new pads are put on and compressing of the calipers the fluid level is back to the correct level.
And don't let some idiot "top off" your brake fluid!!!! I worked on a car a few weeks ago not realising some dolt did this and when I compressed the pistons, brake fluid went all over the engine compartment. I had to suck fluid out of the reservoir to finish the job, then refill. I was unbelievably pissed that a "professional" would do something this idiotic.
As accelerate alluded, if the reservoir is full when the pads are new, you can see just how worn the brakes are by looking at the fluid level. When it gets to the low mark, you should be hearing the wear indicators. NEVER add fluid to the full mark with used pads unless you have a system leak.
As accelerate alluded, if the reservoir is full when the pads are new, you can see just how worn the brakes are by looking at the fluid level. When it gets to the low mark, you should be hearing the wear indicators. NEVER add fluid to the full mark with used pads unless you have a system leak.
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my pads have 23000 on em and i just bought pads from the dealer , and im going to install my self due to their outrageous 120 per hour charge..pads were only 85 a pair..so u will save half if you just do it your self..
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Arizona
I looked at the receipt from the dealer at it stated that the fronts are at 2mm and the backs are at 7mm. I do drive it aggresively but 18k seems a little silly. My 02 WRX OEM pads held on till 60k and I drove the hell out of it. I was planning on changing the pads myself but just didn't want to mess up any of the Lexus systems. Are Hawks going to be that superior to the EBCs?
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 287
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From: GA
And don't let some idiot "top off" your brake fluid!!!! I worked on a car a few weeks ago not realising some dolt did this and when I compressed the pistons, brake fluid went all over the engine compartment. I had to suck fluid out of the reservoir to finish the job, then refill. I was unbelievably pissed that a "professional" would do something this idiotic.
As accelerate alluded, if the reservoir is full when the pads are new, you can see just how worn the brakes are by looking at the fluid level. When it gets to the low mark, you should be hearing the wear indicators. NEVER add fluid to the full mark with used pads unless you have a system leak.
As accelerate alluded, if the reservoir is full when the pads are new, you can see just how worn the brakes are by looking at the fluid level. When it gets to the low mark, you should be hearing the wear indicators. NEVER add fluid to the full mark with used pads unless you have a system leak.
CL Community Team
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,673
Likes: 331
From: NJ
On my Audi, the low brake fluid light started coming on nearly 10,000 miles before the low brake pad light (in that car, a wire embedded in the pad would wear through, illuminating a warning light, rather than the audible indicator on many pads). So while I don't top off the brake fluid as part of scheduled maintenance, I will add fluid if it runs low and there is still some life in the pads.
The added fluid isn't a problem for me: Brake fluid is very hydroscopic (absorbs water), so I always make it a habit to change the fluid at the same time I hang a new set of pads.
The added fluid isn't a problem for me: Brake fluid is very hydroscopic (absorbs water), so I always make it a habit to change the fluid at the same time I hang a new set of pads.
Not specifically, but there is an idiot light for fluid level. You'll see the main warning light flicker on harder stops at first and then see it more frequently as the pads approach completely worn out. If you stop aggressively, you might see the light much sooner.
BTW, I just looked over the service manual, and it may be difficult or impossible to fully bleed the brakes without the Lexus scantool. It is not possible to bleed the ABS/TRAC actuator without being able to electronically actuate the valves in this device. Just a word of caution for the home tech - don't disconnect the brake lines and assume you can successfully bleed the brakes using the manual techniques we've all learned. It might work, but it might not, and you'll need to get access to the Lexus scantool to finish the job.
BTW, I just looked over the service manual, and it may be difficult or impossible to fully bleed the brakes without the Lexus scantool. It is not possible to bleed the ABS/TRAC actuator without being able to electronically actuate the valves in this device. Just a word of caution for the home tech - don't disconnect the brake lines and assume you can successfully bleed the brakes using the manual techniques we've all learned. It might work, but it might not, and you'll need to get access to the Lexus scantool to finish the job.
Last edited by lobuxracer; Dec 9, 2006 at 12:57 AM.
