the stock brakes are on its last leg, so need to replace them, but I don't have the budget for BBK.

I just got few questions that need answers:

1) IIRC, there was some sort of "solution" to get rid of the click noise that the pads would emit during turning, something like putting on grease?

2) is it worth it to buy shim kit from Sewell? and are the "Fitting-kit" any mandatory? I forgot what those little brackets are called, but I know on some cars they are re-usable, not sure on the GS.

3) I want to get the Rotora discs, since they are black coated on parts that are prone to have corrosion, and I drive the car all year around in the winter too, be nice not to see ugly surface rust, but how are they when compare to the Brembo rotors on Carson's website?

4) is there any computer to re-set when flushing out the whole system? going change to braided lines and all, so going to put in some ATE, but not sure if there's any computers to be reset.

thanks.

 

Let's see if I can help:

1) There is a solution and I believe there is a TSB. Basically, you put a dab of grease between the tabs on the pad where it fits into the caliper (on the sides).

2) I usually replace the shim kit with new pads, they tend to bend, get dirty, etc. Some people re-use them...I guess it depends on their condition (the rears usually hold up better).

3) I've had Rotora...they are OK. Seemed to warp too quickly, but they were slotted and cross-drilled. Brembo I can't comment on, although I know the brand.

4) When I changed my lines there was no reset to do, just make sure the brake reservoir doesn't go empty and get all the air out of the lines by bleeding.

Hope that helps.

 

On your number 4
Should the car be on so the abs computer is on during brake bleeding?

 

I'm trying to remember, and maybe someone else can comment and verify.
-I believe I bled the brakes with the key in the on position (car not running). There is a DIY for this on CL somewhere.

 

Yes, key to on position but engine not running. Only needed for rear brakes.