Chillymorn

So I just picked up a 99 ls400 134k pretty clean

Must have been sitting awhile the rotors had more than typical flash rust. At first it had a shimmy in the steering wheel while braking. But after a full tank of gas that has gone almost totally away.

Vibration and wobble at 60mph and then settle down some after 80mph.
Installed new tires and now it rides pretty good but I haven`t tested it on the highway yet.

$#@!* low washer fluid light.

1) can i just unplug it and if I do will the warning light go out?
I guess I need to pull the sensor/plunger thingy and try to un stick it.

2) #@$%@#$%& tail light failure warning.
I already put new 921 bulbs in and only one side works.


do I need 921 LL bulbs?

3) ok this one is weird. In the trunk there's a dead body.. and 50k in cash.

Is there a sticky for that situation?

Just joking but there is a antenna wire or something in the passenger side trunk compartment you have to lift up the carpet and its just laying there unplugged.


So far I put about 500 miles on it and I'm loving the ***** out of it!!


Need oil recommendations. (Have no Idea what's been used)
I`m kinda old school 5w 30 whatever is in sale and a filter every 3k-5k I figured easy peasy and you get to eyeball everything while your under there. But looks like changing the oil innthe lexus is a bit of a pain in the a$$ all that plastic in the way..can`t really see anything with out taking it off.

I almost want to scrap all the plastic ....lol

Please someone tell me you can change the oil without wrangling with plastic and clips etc...

Transmission oil

I think a total drain and filter is needed.



Looking forward to learning from you guys and gals

peterls

If you drain A/T fluid at that plug in the pan, you'll get around 2qts out, no more. But everyone will recommend to do that so that the change to new fluid is gradual - it avoids swelling of seals and whatnot. Total capacity is 8qts if memory serves me, or there about, so you need to repeat that process at least 5-6 times to get to full change of fluid.

As for that plastic on the bottom, my car came without it because previous owner or their mechanic hated the thing, I am sure (or sometimes it just breaks off). Personally, I'd rather have the plastic, but I can't bring myself to spend money on it.I am thinking without it, the engine gets better cooling including the alternator, battery and so on... but in rain alternator may get wet, so, who knows.

The tail light warning module can be a PITA. Mine failed, and it just locked the transmission without turning on the brake light warning. I didn't know why, until I saw that my brake lights were out. So I changed the brake like switch that's at the brake pedal and - nothing. That got me stomped. Finally with Yamae's help I figured it was that warning light module. I went through a bit of experimentation and few burned fuses, but I figured which wires needed to be jumped and the module is out. That thing is a nice idea, but it should NEVER fail so badly as to prevent me from driving a perfectly fine car. I check my brake lights every time I park at a strip mall - just park in reverse, and look at the shop window as I am pulling in. Then try the signal lights, reverse lights and whatever else you want.

Bylan

I have never heard of a tail lamp failure module effecting the transmission, very interesting, And for Chillymorn, I use Mobil 1 5W30 Full synthetic and a wix filter. There are cheaper oils, there are more expensive oils. 50k miles on my 97 and recently got a 98 and Ill never use anything else. Look at Mobil 1's website for Oil rebates, I think its worth saving $5 here and there because I'll never pay someone to put mystery oil and a FRAM filter on my car. I did once have a FRAM filter fail and cause low oil pressure, that was a terrifying drive home, don't make the same mistake. For the transmission, just do a drain and fill like every oil change WITH TOYOTA T-IV fluid. I am so sick and tired of people trying to tout valvoline and all the other aftermarket fluids. Toyota spent ridiculous amount on Research and Development, they know the right additives for the trans fluid. My 97 with 220k shifts flawlessly and is no stranger to kicking down the gears when I mat it, and the fluid that came out of it when I bought it was DARK. I also don't run any of the plastic undertrays, I don't notice any extra wind noise although I don't drive on the highway more than a few times a month. Good luck with the new purchase, never be afraid to do your research on here and ask honest questions. Some will be snarky about it, like telling you to go to the dealership just because you asked a question, some just want you to enjoy your car. I want you to enjoy your car.

spuds

Everything Bylan said only I bought a box of OEM oil filters online.They were cheap enough.

Legender

Plus 1 on the OEM filter online purchase. They also fit my Tundra and 4Runner so I go through them a bit faster. Welcome to the club and glad to see you're already enjoying the ride. Get the final kinks out if it, get the maintenance up to date and enjoy another 100k miles, easy. You didn't mention the timing belt being done but assume it has with that many miles and recommended interval is 100k. Forum has plenty of good info on these cars.

Chillymorn

Thanks. Not sure about the timing belt. Is there any way to tell by looking at it?

Chillymorn

Thanks for all the info guys !

Legender

Maybe, but you've got a few covers to remove to get to it. And even then, you might still could not determine. Might put the VIN number in the lexus site (info on the forum) and see if they have a record of it. Might be a sticker in the engine area stating when it was done and how many miles, but if you've not seen it yet, then you might want to be careful if it's not been done. These are interference engines and it would do some damage if it breaks while you're driving it.

peterls

IF it thinks that all your tail lights are out, it will lock up the transmission, and then you can unlock it only by pressing on that unlock button next to the prindle shifter.

Yamae

I only can give you an idea for question 2) although it's about a 90 model. To check the soldering crack is an important first step to analyze when only one side doen't work. The board for a 99 is a bit different but similar problems happen when soldering points are aged due to the heat cycles.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ml#post8440564
The soldering crack is a very common problem among old cars especially where the heat cycle affects.

Bylan

That actually makes sense, thanks for the info. It's also stupid the transmission relies on the tail lights working. I had a short in my tail light wiring that killed all the tail lights, only brake lights worked. Trans still shifted fine, though I suppose that's just because the lights still sort of worked.

Bylan

+1 on putting the Vin into the Lexus owners site. You can get the service records from all the cars visits to lexus/toyota dealerships. It's fun to see what previous owners dealt with and what was fixed with oem goodies