No, there are are actually differences in the valve body between models, springs mostly.

Almost every one I have opened regardless of model is on 1 - on one or 2 occasions I have seen it on 2 - one of them was actually a 4runner.

 

Firmer, faster shifts only result in longer tranny life - that slow smooth shift actually causes heat and wear.

This is of course only true to a point - tire chirping neck snapping shifts can cause problems too. But that ain't what we're talking here - it's just a nice noticeable upgrade.

 

i was aware of that, my point was that it's probably designed with that meant to be able to be safely moved

 

Yes, I agree that it is designed to be adjusted, but I bet it's more for people who will go back to the dealer and complain it's shifting too slow or too fast.

 

Did mine today (98 GS4) and mine was factory on the middle position. So I went to the highest. Mine does ok, but when cold (0F or colder) the trans seems like it lacks line pressure at first start backing out of the driveway. I hope this helps it.

234k miles on it. Screen looked perfect, nothing in it to warrant changing it. My Lexus guru said the screen is rarely ever replaced. Our local Lexus dealer doesn't even stock it, nor do any local parts stores save 1. Really slow mover.

Initial drive was perfectly fine. Will take it some learn time now.

Only issues were snug fit between the exhaust bracket and access to the bolts, remove big bolts and pry some space in. And getting the 2 piece dipstick apart. Mine was rusty in there and didn't wanna come. I stuck my big prybar in and twisted and it separated some and then I was able to twist it out, still took a bit, but got it. I put some Amsoil synthetic grease in to lube up the o-ring to make easy to put in. Now goes in/out easily.

 

I used Toyota's ATF ordered from Amazon... the same with the tranny's screen/filter.

I turned the dial to 3.
It was on 1.

I sealed it back with red high temp gasket maker. There was no gasket on the pan, just gasket maker.

I went for a drive and it feels different...quicker shirting like everyone said.

 

I think my cold issue was just low fluid, I filled it on the higher side and no issues now.

As for going from 2-3 on mine, not much change.

The red/orange color gasket maker is factory. Screens in trans aren't commonly replaced at dealer. They don't have service interval recommendation on its changing according to my friend at the dealer. Makes sense, mine was clean as a whistle. And 236k miles on it. I don't think the pan has ever been off.

 

Just did the mod to my trans (engine/transmission off 1999 Celsior)




Initially, the dial was set to the min. position. Adjusted it to the max.

The difference is slight but noticeable. Shifts are quicker, besides 3-4-5 shifts do feel smoother. No more kicks upon quick stopping to standstill. I'm yet to see how it works over longer test period, then I'll see if Tom's ECU and Transgo shift kit are worth their prices.

 

Just did the mod on my gs400 we'll see how it goes. I'm also deleting the resonators while its in the shop so I'm expecting to b smiling a lot when I get it back. 😆

 

I've been watching this thread for a couple years now and finally decided to tackle this mod since I was due for a drain and fill anyway.

Notes:

• My 1998 Lexus GS400 was on "2" when I pulled off the pan
• I found it being on "2" strange considering this truly was grandma's Lexus previously and it was a North American car

**Note: I turn a decent wrench and the biggest problem of this job is the stupid cat-to-tranny-to-cat brace. Unless your car has been in Cali or similar for its life, chances are the brace is rust-welded on at each end. Leaving this on makes getting the pan back on a huge PITA and it resulted in my RTV gasket leaking the first time and the Felpro gasket leaking the second time. The 3rd time I got smart and cut the stupid brace on each end, removed it, then welded it after everything was installed. The ATP gasket I installed now does not leak.

Conclusion: Going from 2-3 on the dial resulted in a subtle difference, mainly with downshifts as others have mentioned.
Overall I am happy with the mod and would do it again now that I am so practiced at the job. I could probably do it in an hour including jacking the car up and everything. My first go at it with RTV and scraping the old gasket off, etc. took me about 4hrs.

 

My 98 GS4 was on 2. Would be interested in finding the other 98's. Wonder if all were at 2 and the later ones are at 1?

Going from 2-3 on mine wasn't much difference.

 

ATF and gasket are coming in the mail today specifically for this mod. Will report when it's done.

I'm also considering putting something between the tab and the dial to push the whole thing in further and add a little more preload to that accumulator spring.

If I can get my GS to shift in the same snappy fashion as my dad's Volvo S60 I'll be perfectly happy. His car, despite being 100hp less, is just a little more fun to drive because it has more "jump" when if downshifts.

 

Alright. So my dial was set at 1 and is now at 3. Been running like this for two weeks now. It took the computer a day or two to fully adjust. I'd say as long as you're aware of everything it takes to get this mod done it's worth it. More on that later.

The difference at granny throttle is zero. If I'm real light on the gas, it's still seamless when it shifts. I try to drive like this around town to "save gas..." Once you get to 50% throttle and above you can feel it.

If I were to get into the car having no idea the mod was done I wouldn't be like "is that a shift kit?" but I would definitely be wondering why the transmission shifts firmer. When upshifting, instead of feeling nothing, you can now feel that automatic transmission ka-thunk feel. Both jolts of the shift are noticeable but not harsh. When downshifting from cruising, instead of just a big seamless roar that drops 5-4-3, you can feel each gear engage separately. It's definitely more exciting. It's not as fast as the S60 but if I catch it at just the right speed it'll drop a gear abruptly and push you back hard in the seat.

Like I said, worth it if you know what you're getting into. I don't know if the GS300 has the exhaust bracket at the front of the tranny pan, but regardless, if it's there, it HAS TO come off. I couldn't get the transmission pan to clear the valve body without removing the bracket. I discovered this after I had already separated the gasket sealant and it was too late to put the pan back on without a new gasket. So I had to hacksaw the bracket off. That sucked, working under the car in the driveway with hardly any room. Turned a 1-hour project into a 5-hour project that ended at 1am.

Be prepared to spend a while scraping all the gasket-in-a-tube off the pan before you put on your new gasket of choice. I used a FelPro gasket from Amazon and a small torque wrench I borrowed from my bike shop. 7.4nm is the spec on the pan bolts. Everything sealed up just fine, no leaks.

It's a bit of a pain to get the pan off because of the gasket sealant stuff but a big putty knife lightly tapped into the rear corners works best.

Maybe all this is redundant but hopefully it helps the next person who wants to try this mod.

 

i've been tempted to try this "mod" ever since i first read about it, i think i'm gonna just keep it stock at position 1. probably the biggest lesson i've learned from this car is don't tinker with stuff because you'll always end up breaking something else in the process. especially on a 17 year old car where some of the bolts haven't been turned in years probably... but thank you for your field testing, i think i'd prefer an LS to always shift seamlessly

 

My 98 sc400 was set at 1, i bumped it to the third dial lol