I'm going to start installing coil overs at mechanic school in a couple days. The school has an alignment rack. I already used the search function and couldn't find an answer to my question.

When lowering the car about 1 inch, aside from the coil overs, can the stock suspension accommodate this and achieve correct alignment? I want the tires to contact the ground properly, not be tilting in at the top and riding on the inside edges.

I read this very informative guide by @Seattle SCone and he installed new, but not adjustable, control arms. For others who've already been down this road, I'm wondering whether or not I need to order a pair of these MEVOTECH Supreme control arms that offer +/- 2.0 Degree Camber; +/- 1.0 Degree Of Caster


Here are the specs for the stock suspension:
Front: from the ground to the center of the lower suspension arm mounting bolt = 232mm (9.13in)
Rear: from the ground to the center of the lower suspension arm No. 2 mounting bolt = 209mm (8.22in)
Camber -0°35'* +/- 45' (-0.58° +/- 0.75°); Left-right error 30' (0.5°) or less



See the screenshot below if I left something important out:

 

Nobody ever answered this, but I will provide an update.

I installed the MeisterR Zeta CRD coilovers. It took several hours even though the car was up on a rack. The coilovers appeared to be set at stock height (they were the same length of the removed Toyota shock/strut assemblies), so I didn't adjust anything out of the box before installing them. Once we dropped the rack, the car looked slammed. I didn't have time to raise it and take the wheels back off so I will do that next week. Slammed cars aren't to my taste but it does look pretty freakin' good. I have to be very careful over speedbumps and back into parking spaces to avoid hitting cement stop bars. My rear camber is negative and the front toe is off a fraction but it steers straight without holding the wheel. I will fix it next week and report back regarding the need for adjustable replacement parts to get proper alignment.

The car rides so much better now. No more wave-riding over patches on the highway. No more diving and squatting. I'm starting out on -10/32 in the back and -8/32 in the front.

So far, this is what I've done (with my opinion on bang for the buck):
SC430mods throttle controller (10/10)
UltraRacing front strut tower bar (10/10)
MeisterR Zeta CRD coilovers (9/10) <-- I had to do this no matter what due to leaking shocks. This is my first car with coilovers so I have nothing to compare these to.
Cusco ear tower sway bar (7/10)
GS front sway bar (3/10) <-- Installed at the same time as coilovers, so I can't separate out what effect this had. If this was all you wanted to do and didn't already have everything apart I wouldn't bother. The tower bar by itself makes a huge difference and goes on a few minutes.

Still left to do:
Alignment & height adjustment
IS rear sway bar
TRD door jamb things

 

Nice work.

Would you please provide the source/part numbers for the front and rear bars?

Here is the $64 question....

Did the change affect the front lift/rear squat under brisk acceleration?

thanks

 

Front bar:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393451568659
or google "site:www.ebay.com ultra racing sc430 uzz40"

Rear bar:
https://www.carid.com/cusco/rear-typ...187-541-a.html
or google "Cusco 187 541 A - Rear Type OS Strut Tower Brace"
This was hard to find.

The coilovers eliminated the squatting and diving. We live out a very curvy road. I have Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ tires on the car. Once they wear out, I will start swapping winter/summer sets. I feel like the tires are the weak point now.

 

Oops sorry I meant the sway bars. My bad.

Thank you very much for the squat/dive cure.

This is the holy grail for me.

cheers

 

Here is an update on the camber and alignment after installing MeisterR coilovers and lowering the SC.

The stock height (measured from a bolt on the front and rear lower control arms):
LF 232mm
RF 232mm
RR 209mm
LR 209mm

After arbitrarily lowering the car by eye, I got:
LF 190mm (-42mm)
RF 189mm (-43mm)
RR 144mm (-65mm)
LR 144mm (-65mm)

This was the best I could do on the alignment:



The car was so low the exhaust would scrap the slightest imperfection or bump in the road. The stock exhaust has an oval section at its lowest point so it doesn't stick out below the level of the pinch welds. The magnaflow kit is round pipe at that point so it's almost an inch lower there.

To get the alignment closer to green I raised the car to:
LF 190mm (-42mm) + 2mm ==> 192mm (40mm lowered)
Coil gap 75.22mm (the threaded portion that shows between the locking collars)
RF 189mm (-43mm) +3mm ==> 192mm (40mm lowered)
Coil gap 75.26mm
RR 144mm (-65mm) +25mm ==> 169mm (40mm lowered)
Coil gap 82.77mm
LR 144mm (-65mm) + 25mm ==> 169mm (40mm lowered)
Coil gap 82.64mm

The car doesn't scrape anymore but it may be a little too high now for the short IS end links in the rear. I haven't realigned the car yet. I will do that next week. I bought the camber correction kit that adds +1 to rear camber in case I need it. I will probably lower it another 10mm if I can adjust the camber enough. The car handles great now. I'm really happy with how it's turning out.