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I will own the car 20 years in April, have just 100k miles on it. I thought is was time to give the car a make over. Ended up with the list I did want to fix or change.
Front Grill: paint it black matching the cars color
Hood Molding: put a film on it to tone down the chrome
AC Servos: one of them is making the ticking noise, service and/or replace
Radio: i have some rattling noise coming from there. It is a pioneer with the beat sonic for years, but something got lose
Seats: Driver seat shows wear and tear and i collected water stains on the passenger seat and the rear bench
ECU for Tein: it is in the center console box. Unfortunately installer put it in a place where when you lean on the armrest you switch the unit on or off. Needs to be moved.
Sub-Woofer: Foam, well there was some at some point. Needs to be redone
Rear Speakers: possibly re-foam as well
Antenna: change to a black Stubby
Rear left Fender: deep scratches need to be fixed. happened at a parking lot when I was pulled out and another did the same from the other side in my blind spot and slightly hit me there. Insurance said both at fault.
Rear Parking Sensors: maybe late after 20 years, but if I had had them before my rear fender issues it would have alerted me something is coming.
Hood Lifts: have to be replaced
Naturally when one is doing this, issues come up. Forum helped me already to remove the seats. Today I have two other questions:
On of the servos turned out it wasn't serviceable and needed to be replaced. now the positions of the arms of the new one and the old one are quite different. Do I have to change the position of the new one to match the old ones? See the attached picture
left the old servo
Secondly: I wanted to check the rear speakers and was almost complete in removing the panels just realize the final screw can only be reached when the roof is partially open, as it seems. I wanted run the roof close (i had it open for better access) but it doesn't close anymore. Switch lights up but no action at all! The panel is lose, are there any sensors I might have triggered?
On of the servos turned out it wasn't serviceable and needed to be replaced. now the positions of the arms of the new one and the old one are quite different. Do I have to change the position of the new one to match the old ones? See the attached picture
left the old servo
Your picture is too small for my old eyes to see, but my guess is it is easier to move the vent position in the car, than try to move the actuator arm. The vents are designed to swing freely, where the motor will fight you every step. As long as it is the right servo for that position, moving the vent position should not be an issue
I wanted run the roof close (i had it open for better access) but it doesn't close anymore. Switch lights up but no action at all! The panel is lose, are there any sensors I might have triggered?
So you can't close your roof and the light is flashing red?
My guess would be it is something to do with your package tray, the part that flips up. Can you make sure there are no tools sitting on it and everything is back in it's place as best as you can. Then try disconnecting your car battery for 30 seconds and trying it again.
So you can't close your roof and the light is flashing red?
My guess would be it is something to do with your package tray, the part that flips up. Can you make sure there are no tools sitting on it and everything is back in it's place as best as you can. Then try disconnecting your car battery for 30 seconds and trying it again.
Thanks, but the red light isn't flashing when I tried to close the roof. I haven't yet put back on the rear interior panel to see what may happen.
Don’t understand “ECU for Tein” issue. Care to explain?
I have an adjustable Tein Suspension in the car and the ECU allows me to dial the stiffness. Allows me to have a hard or a soft ride with variation for front and rear. Kind of like it but of course do not use it as much as I did in the beginning. The location the installer selected is bad and I need to move it to a different place as I sometimes trigger it inadvertently.
Is the pull out cover in the trunk properly seated?
Thanks for the advise. The roof is in the trunk, I opened the trunk and played with the pull out cover, that didn't work. I was working at the same time at the air servos. To get to them you have to take out the glove compartment. After I had put the serviced and one replaced servo back in I also had put back the glove compartment. There is a separate trunk release switch which I had to disconnect to pull it, that gave me hope. Connected the switch and the battery, cycled the switch in the compartment and voila roof is back to live and I was able to close it. Thanks!
I am now at the installation of the rear sensors. They require a 12v connection. I could run a wire from the trunk to the front to the center console and pick it up there, but is there a closer by connection? the brain shall go next to the NAV/Amp and I see there is a fuse box. Thank you for your help.
I am now at the installation of the rear sensors. They require a 12v connection. I could run a wire from the trunk to the front to the center console and pick it up there, but is there a closer by connection? the brain shall go next to the NAV/Amp and I see there is a fuse box. Thank you for your help.
There are several 12v sources in the fuse box, however, they are all 12v constant. If you want ignition-on 12v, you will have to tap into the Nav main connector.
There are several 12v sources in the fuse box, however, they are all 12v constant. If you want ignition-on 12v, you will have to tap into the Nav main connector.
Yes, I am looking for ignition-on only. Is the wire color for that red? And how would you tap into the connector? I usually use T-Tap connectors. Thank you!
Yes, I am looking for ignition-on only. Is the wire color for that red? And how would you tap into the connector? I usually use T-Tap connectors. Thank you!
The wires on 18-pin connector are very tight, I don’t think T-Tap will work. No the wire is gray, pin 18. In the pdf below, the author used p-tap connector (page 12 and 13). I personally removed the connector, insert the tripped wire to the female and snapped the connector back in.