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SC430 - 2nd Gen (2001-2010)

convertible top not going down

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Old May 22, 2018 | 03:43 PM
  #61  
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Search and start a new thread on the bushings
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Old May 23, 2018 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by VVTiBob
Search and start a new thread on the bushings
I'm getting ready to get back to work on the convertible tomorrow. Was wondering if anyone knows how to strengthen the cable bracket. Looks weak and it will open again. Was planning on using metal zip ties or something..any suggestions
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Old May 24, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Jxlee0215
I'm getting ready to get back to work on the convertible tomorrow. Was wondering if anyone knows how to strengthen the cable bracket. Looks weak and it will open again. Was planning on using metal zip ties or something..any suggestions
When you pull on the cable from the bracket end, is it hard to move the pivot? I agree the bracket looks/is weak, but if your system is working properly, the pull strength needed isn't very high.

If it bent (like mine did) that is an indication something isn't right.
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Old May 24, 2018 | 10:50 AM
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If I remember right, you need to wrap the cable around the "Meaty" end of the bracket, that way the hooks don't pull open and the "pull pressure" from the cable can be supported. I think the cable goes counter clockwise, but it could go clockwise. Try both ways and see which one works. It has been a long time since I fixed mine, but this is what I think you need to do. If the picture doesn't make sense, feel free to ask any questions.

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Old May 24, 2018 | 02:26 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Jxlee0215
I haven't had time, but will get back to it within a few days. Will update.
Was dealing with another problem. When I hit bumps/potholes my steering wheel shakes erratically. Looked at suspension/end links but didn't see any issue other than lower control arm bushing torn. Any suggestions on that? Maybe that should be in a new thread... 😁

​​​​
Check upper control arm balljoint. On mine, the boots were not torn (or maybe torn a little) but it was making clunking noise and steering wheel is not stable when hitting bumps.
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Old May 25, 2018 | 11:51 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by DshngDaryl
If I remember right, you need to wrap the cable around the "Meaty" end of the bracket, that way the hooks don't pull open and the "pull pressure" from the cable can be supported. I think the cable goes counter clockwise, but it could go clockwise. Try both ways and see which one works. It has been a long time since I fixed mine, but this is what I think you need to do. If the picture doesn't make sense, feel free to ask any questions.
I'm not too worried about that cable. I didn't mess with it. Just saw it that way with the bracket a little open. I will try to way you recommend it. I did close the gap. I got the other side carpet out with the emergency trunk release. But didn't do much else. As for another loose cable. Maybe some ideas here? When I tighten the bracket evenly. It still has play and looks weak. And falls out pretty easily. When I push the bracket in to hold the cable cylinder head more tightly, it wobbles out with a few jiggle. Not sure how i can get this secure from falling out the bracket again. I was thinking of putting 2 washers between the space in the bracket and something to hold it. Here's a video. Doesn't look like it's gonna fall out but it does. Of course when I'm recording it doesn't fall out as easily.

Last edited by Jxlee0215; May 25, 2018 at 11:58 PM.
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Old May 26, 2018 | 12:25 PM
  #67  
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I think if you route the cable like I had mentioned, it will tighten up the cable. The extra twist around the pivot will cause the slack to disappear. I know I sound obsessed with the pivot, but I had the same problems as you and the solution all came down to how I wrapped the cable around the pivot.

If you think there is still too much slack in your cable, trace the cable sheath from the back to the front.

You are looking for some kind of indention on the sheath to indicate the the sheath was secured to the hinge.

I have no idea of this is true, but my second thought is the cable sheath isn't following the OEM route and it is causing too much slack in the cable. My first thought, of course, is the pivot wrap.
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Old May 31, 2018 | 12:11 PM
  #68  
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the cable was routed the correct way. Sorry i disconnected the other end cable so that's why you see slack in the video. i was able to get the top down. turns out it was the cable bracket, however before putting the trunk carpet back in is there a way to secure the cable to bracket. it's very soft at this point and i think it will bend out of place again. I was thinking of 2 brackets sandwiched with 2 screws.



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Old May 31, 2018 | 01:50 PM
  #69  
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Tension Pin


Cotter Pin
Excellent! Congratulations, you saved yourself a small fortune at the dealer!
Maybe a small cotter, or tension pin to prevent it from opening back up. A cotter pin could be bend over the cable lug too.
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Old May 31, 2018 | 01:56 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by VVTiBob


Tension Pin


Cotter Pin
Excellent! Congratulations, you saved yourself a small fortune at the dealer!
Maybe a small cotter, or tension pin to prevent it from opening back up. A cotter pin could be bend over the cable lug too.
Thank you for the help Bob. And everyone else here. I have other problems (suspension, radiator leak) to deal with, but at least this is one less. How would you suggest using the tension pin. I have a few of those laying around.
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Old May 31, 2018 | 02:12 PM
  #71  
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If you really believe they cable can come loose, or receiver will deform from the cable movement, then drilling a hole through the upper and lower portion locking them together with the tension pin. But remember how tension pins work. So that’s going to be a small pin and a smaller hole.
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Old May 31, 2018 | 02:20 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by VVTiBob
If you really believe they cable can come loose, or receiver will deform from the cable movement, then drilling a hole through the upper and lower portion locking them together with the tension pin. But remember how tension pins work. So that’s going to be a small pin and a smaller hole.
Yeah that's not going to work. There's barely any room around there, unless I remove the whole assembly.
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