What do you think? Or should I stick with the Polk everyone talking about? It seems like a shallow mount (2.8"). The MB website says it's great in sealed enclosures. How "sealed" is the area behind the seat of an SC 430?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/maxxsoni...568&ksdevice=c

 

Btw, just so you're aware, the Stock Subwoofer is 16ohm. Your potential replacement is a Dual Voice Coil (4ohm per coil- so wired properly would give you max 8ohms). Search for "Sc430 Subwoofer," and you'll get lots of results and what many owners, including myself, have done (ie. dual voice coil with 8ohm per coil wired in series and/or a stand alone trunk box and amp; I did both). I'm not sure "who's" talking about POLK, but I'm a JL Audio fan (converted from Rockford Fosgate).

Additionally, there's a lot of debate out there on the ML amp and running speakers that are out of specifications off the amp and the risk of burning it out. Check out the threads and info on this forum and make your own judgement, I guess. Best of luck!

 

I successfully used the sub listed below to replace the extremely wimpy ML OEM sub in my car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-8-DVC-Su...AAOSws65Tl2KCV

 

I ended up ordering a refoam kit for now. I haven't pulled the stock speaker yet to verify how much of it is left, but it truly does sound like **** when it actually tries to make noise. Mostly just silently vibrates the seat. If my voicecoil is burned, then the Dayton looks like a good buy. I'd also considered running the sub leads to a line out converter and then to a dedicated amp with a tuneable crossover and separate level control and just run a 4ohm sub (already have all 3 laying around). I figure if i can boost up the 60-100hz response of the new sub, i could probably run the headunit with the bass at -2 or so and prolong the life of some of the other stock speakers. It's a shame the whole system is integrated like it is. The nav is a pile of ****. For an 04 cant do much with maps, and my cell does a better job navigating. I do like the period graphics however. Brings me back with it's "Intellivision" feel.

 

The sc430 is superbly well built but are going to be shocked when you pull the OEM ML sub and see that it is basically a bargain bin low end piece.
The period NAV at best reminds me of Miss Pacman.

 

I just LOL'ed on that ms Pacman!

 

I applaud all the heroic attempts at refoaming tired speakers, but if you already have the door panels, etc. removed I believe replacement is the best option.

 

Ok.... got the original sub out this last weekend. NOT impressed. It took me back to the early 80's when my grandparents threw away some speakers and I took them apart to see what they were all about. The speakers were from the 60's. I ended up re-foaming the sub, because I had already ordered the foam kit. Sounds alright, it is noticeable now, considering it was missing all its surround.. One thing I am considering is putting some sort of sound deadener on the trunk bulkhead that the speaker is mounted in. It moves WAY too much when the sub is operating. My rear seat belts were just bouncing all over the place against the panel. lots of energy lost there. I think the bass would be a bit stronger with DynaMat or something of that nature.

 

Just purchased this, receiving/installing on Friday. Thanks again for the great (affordable) suggestion as mine was totally dead when I bought mine and didnt want to throw down several hundred bucks if it was just going to blow again!

 

Had the sub rebuilt. It sounds much better. Based on this thread, am tempted to go aftermarket suggested. ML has excellent clarity but no "warmth". Sorry slightly off topic here. All the door speakers work but are original. Am I likely to get improved sound if I have them rebuilt (re coned)?

 

The old OEM speakers typically don't need any repair other than a re-foam which means replacing the exterior foam surround that has disintegrated into dust on the OEM speakers. Usually the rest of the speaker including the paper cone attached to the voice coil is in OK shape.
Several companies and vendors sell re-foam kits fairly cheap - here is an example -
https://www.simplyspeakers.com/lexus...edge-kits.html

I personally chose to swap out my OEM speakers for non OEM speakers because in my view the ML speakers are not really worth repairing. However if you are happy with how the OEM speakers sound and you want to preserve the originality of the car than re-foam of the speakers is a reasonable alternative to replacing them. It is certainly a better option than paying the silly prices that Lexus wants for new replacement OEM speakers.

 

I struggled with replacing my stock radio, but I'm glad I did. The Kenwood has Apple Car Play & Android Auto, so I can see my phone's GPS directly on the 7" screen.
Benefits include backup camera, hands free cell calls, HD FM, XM. Not to mention the freedom to pick my own speakers. Here is what I went with;

Receiver: Kenwood DDX9903 Double Din
Door Speakers: Hertz HSK165
Steering Wheel Control: Metra ASWC-TOY-LEX (120ASWCTL)
Rear Camera: Accele TLP100IRC
Amp & Remote Control: JL Audio XD500/3v2 & HD-RLC Amp Remote Control
Sub: Sony GS 8"
Wiring adapter: Metra Axxess TYTO-01
Dash Kit: Metra 998161S
SiriusXM SXV300V1 Tuner
Cell phone mount and holder: Panavise 75136-200, 15575

I'm regretting not going with rear speakers. The Hertz 6.5" door speakers are fabulous. However, once driving with top-down, I think the overall sound could be
enhanced with rear speakers? From what I can tell, we're limited in space for the rear speakers (4"). Anyone else try putting in 6.5" rears without chopping sheet-metal?

Here is a comment from my Audio Installer when he tried putting in a 10", then 8" Sub:
"I went to see how the Memphis 8" fits in the factory cut out, and it does not fit...
There is a depth restriction due to the metal of the floor, kinda rising up and hitting the magnet"

For my old ML gear, I boxed it up for safe keeping. Just in case a future owner wants to go back to stock.

 

rpjense, how good is the visibility of the Kenwood? Does it handle glare very good, especially with the top down?

 

The visibility works well. And it's got a motorized screen so you can tilt it to help prevent glare. But when the sun is really shining, it can be hard to see at times.