Lex,
What exactly, in detail, did your mechanic do to fix your car?

You might need to be more specific than just telling him he adjusted valve timing...I still do not understand what your mechanic did to fix your car.
Many of us that stuck with you trying to help you figure this out would really like to know and it might be helpful to someone in the future.
Tks

 

lex
i must say i again with Bgw70I can't believe valve adjustment was the problem must have been sometime more. hydraulic lifters don't need adjustment once set that it. if they start ticking the cam lob or the lifter is starting to go. they are not like a solid lifter that must be adjusted.
the timing can not be adjusted the belt had to jump and they set it back to stock or change the belt or sometimg

 

Hey Guys sorry for not explaining properly. Was just so relieved she is running again that I kind of didn't want to stress more. But I do appreciate that you all stuck with me through this ordeal.

As far as I understand, the timing on the cams were not aligned and my independent suggested that the torque on the cam probably was not correct causing the timing to move out of alignment. Sorry if I am not using the correct terms. I also stopped by Advance Auto to see my buddy and he also agreed that if the torque that is required after aligning the cams was not correct, the car could drive fine at first then loosen as I drive and then cause misfire.

Does that make sense? Again, thanks for sticking with me through this guys..

 

Very relieved that you finally have a solution. What a nightmare!

I was thinking of starting a thread:
"Added air to the tires and now car won't start- please help!!
but figured it's probably too soon to be looking at this with humor.

 

 

What pully needs to be replaced and why? Could that have been the cause of the cam timing to slip because belt jumped a tooth?

If there is a pully that needs to be replaced you should get it fixed now, before it causes another problem and everything is no longer great.

 

Sigh....

It's the idler/tensioner pulley.Here is a pic:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/d...9026/5160014-P

Checked out some videos and it looks like a common problem and fairly easy to replace. Also not expensive.

This experience has just been so frustrating. At times I think of getting rid of this car, but she is so much fun to drive and so customized for my tastes.


Now I am getting a p0441 code. I'll go through the usual suspects, gas cap, vsv valve, check for loose connects AGAIN... arg

Now there is a slight clicking sound occasionally when I brake at very low speeds. Only sometimes. I think a retainer pic might be loose or something is stuck in there.

Waiting to do anything else until I see the insurance adjuster Wednesday morning..


grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

 

Looks like my OBD code p0441 is gone and I am free of trouble codes. But still have MORE issues to resolve. They seem quite doable, but nonetheless the post-accident misery continues:

Minor:

-Interior shifter bezel lights not working. Looks like I will have to change those out.
-Navigation door doesn't open and close. Will have to open up to investigate if has come off tracks.

Medium:

-Tensioner-idler pulley is showing vibration and needs replacing. Appears to be straightforward fix. Just that I am not entirely sure how release the tension on the belt to remove and replace..

Major:

-ABS brakes seem to be acting up.

Likely the ABS sensor on the passenger side, since that is where the water got in engine. Occasionally when I come to a full stop I feel a grinding/pulsing and hear a buzzing. Was scrolling through some forums and several indicated this is likely ABS sensor acting up, and method to verify is to remove ABS 1 and ABS 2 fuses and see if it still happens. Have not checked shop manual though yet to verify procedure.

Questions/comments/criticisms welcomed..

 

You showed just the pulley. If the bearing doesnt feel rough or sloppy, then it is fine. What you didn't show was the hydraulic tensior device, which is a crucial part of the timing belt system. If it gets weak then you can't maintain adequate tension on the belt, and then the belt can jump teeth on the sprockets when the engine shifts abruptly between loading and unloading (getting on/off the power). IMO replacing that hydraulic tensioner and pulley basically takes you to the level of the entire timing belt replacement job in terms of disassembly. If the water pump hasnt been replaced by now, might as well do that too.

Cam sprockets are keyed to the cam, so I'm not sure about what wasn't torqued and how the timing could jump. Replacing the tensioner will allow a competent technician to put the timing issues to bed, once and for all.

 

I meant this one, see video:

 

Brett,

The video was for replacing idler pully on a serpentine belt, not timing belt. The procedure is almost the same except there are no timing issues when changing a serpentine belt. If you slip one or more teeth on the crank or either cam shaft, when changing timing belt, you could be right back to where you were before or worse.

You may want to ask your independent mechanic what he would charge to replace the idler pulley and/or tensioner.

Another point is with the new/used engine you don't know really how old or how many miles are on the timing belt, tensioner or water pump. Old timing belts can fool you and appear to be in like new condition.

 

Insurance adjuster came by and is paying for unauthorized repairs, timing repair, and the parts I installed!!