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I bought the car about 7 months ago from another member here. He said that he just recently replaced the battery before I bought it. I got an aftermarket alarm installed and I can see the batteries voltage on my remote. When I try to crank it and had issues I see it around 11.6 volts. That took about ten attempts before it started. I have not been paying attention to my voltage before this. So this has happened about 3 times already. On the 3rd time which was 11.6 volts. I have been checking it frequently and its been at 12.4-12.7 volts. While the car is running it will be at around 15.6 volts. I will try and swap out a dry cell battery from my other car and see what happens.
1- when are you seeing 12.4-12.7 volts? When it's cranking normally? When the car is not running?
2- 15.6 volts, if it's really 15.6 volts, is WAY TOO MUCH when car is running. If this is real voltage you are cooking the battery by over charging it. That will shorten battery life significantly. The most you should be reading ever is 14.5 or so. But never over 15 volts.
3- 11.6 volts when cranking is on the low side. Likely the battery is toast and can't handle the current.
What brand battery us it? Most batteries have at least a 2 year replacement warranty. If you don't have a receipt their U.S. a date code on the battery and most sources will replace for free if it's still in warranty.
1- when are you seeing 12.4-12.7 volts? When it's cranking normally? When the car is not running?
2- 15.6 volts, if it's really 15.6 volts, is WAY TOO MUCH when car is running. If this is real voltage you are cooking the battery by over charging it. That will shorten battery life significantly. The most you should be reading ever is 14.5 or so. But never over 15 volts.
3- 11.6 volts when cranking is on the low side. Likely the battery is toast and can't handle the current.
What brand battery us it? Most batteries have at least a 2 year replacement warranty. If you don't have a receipt their U.S. a date code on the battery and most sources will replace for free if it's still in warranty.
I think it's die hard gold but I'll make sure tomorrow and volts as well
1- when are you seeing 12.4-12.7 volts? When it's cranking normally? When the car is not running?
2- 15.6 volts, if it's really 15.6 volts, is WAY TOO MUCH when car is running. If this is real voltage you are cooking the battery by over charging it. That will shorten battery life significantly. The most you should be reading ever is 14.5 or so. But never over 15 volts.
3- 11.6 volts when cranking is on the low side. Likely the battery is toast and can't handle the current.
What brand battery us it? Most batteries have at least a 2 year replacement warranty. If you don't have a receipt their U.S. a date code on the battery and most sources will replace for free if it's still in warranty.
I been paying more attention today and while the car is cranked I been having around 14.2-14.5 volts. When it is off I been having 12 volts. Maybe I was getting 15 volts because I charged the battery over night because I thought my battery was bad.
I forgot to mention that I have exhaust cutouts on my car and it's wired so that it stays on even when the car is off. It is wired this way so when I remote start the car I can open/close the cutout. Do yiu think this can be the reason?
Try this, let the engine set one hour with the key off.
Turn the key to the on position
wait five seconds
turn off
Wait one second
Turn key on again
Wait five seconds
Turn key to start.
Post results! Any change?
Black, forget about the voltage for a minute.
Does the starter labor or slow down like you have a dead battery when turning the engine over?
If not, do the steps above.
I been paying more attention today and while the car is cranked I been having around 14.2-14.5 volts. When it is off I been having 12 volts. Maybe I was getting 15 volts because I charged the battery over night because I thought my battery was bad.
I forgot to mention that I have exhaust cutouts on my car and it's wired so that it stays on even when the car is off. It is wired this way so when I remote start the car I can open/close the cutout. Do yiu think this can be the reason?
Good. 14.2-14.5 is perfectly normal when car is already running. That tells me that your charging system is functioning as it should.
A healthy fully charged battery should read resting voltage of 12.5-12.6 or so, about an hour after the car has not run. A battery that reads 12.0 resting volts is only 50% charged and may not be enough to start your car. http://modernsurvivalblog.com/altern...-charge-chart/
I'm not familiar with powered cutouts. If they are in fact draining significant current they could be causing low battery after a while. If it's not too difficult you may want to try to remove the power wire from it and see if that helps.
Good. 14.2-14.5 is perfectly normal when car is already running. That tells me that your charging system is functioning as it should.
A healthy fully charged battery should read resting voltage of 12.5-12.6 or so, about an hour after the car has not run. A battery that reads 12.0 resting volts is only 50% charged and may not be enough to start your car. http://modernsurvivalblog.com/altern...-charge-chart/
I'm not familiar with powered cutouts. If they are in fact draining significant current they could be causing low battery after a while. If it's not too difficult you may want to try to remove the power wire from it and see if that helps.
Ok I'm going to try that. Thanks for your help. I'll post back in a couple days