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Do you have any pics of you racing your vette? How do you feel about the new stingrays? I personally could not live without a gorgeous interior that a lexus provides..
I had the Odyssey battery 49.7 lbs cost 275 my New Battery 725 shipped 7.7 lbs over 41 lbs lighter. lighter car mean faster. now remember 725-275= 420 so I spent 420 for a lighter 41+ lbs car. the same thing a lighter wheel rim will make it faster. anything that lighten you car will make it faster. remember 41+ lbs lighter just try to take out 41+ lbs
Last edited by bacardi11; Feb 12, 2015 at 05:16 PM.
I'm going to sound like a super noob when it comes to sway bars. You guys say this setup is better for track and this is better for street. what makes it better for track and street. I want to do some upgrades to the sway bar but i don't want to get carried away. I'm installing Airrunner struts so the ride will still be geared towards comfort. Also I've heard that a factory 2gs front sway bar fits in the SC and is something like 4mm larger? Does anyone know if i'm right about that?
I've done both front and rear bars, in your case since you will run air suspension then I would suggest to just upgraded the rear bar. Get the upgrade kit from Sewell. Its got all the parts you need, you do need to elongate the screws holes on the brackets that come with it.
I bought the TRD bar; super easy install (it's 32mm). Car is still on jack stands.
I'm still fighting the rear ISF bar. The factory links don't like the FIG bushings even after I cut them.
See my thread on the mod I had done to fit the 19mm solid rear upgrade fron the 2004 GS430 ... That is a balanced set. The center piece is very strong with the steel tube insert. I felt the balance set was important. I love the improved handling on the track.
I had the Odyssey battery 49.7 lbs cost 275 my New Battery 725 shipped 7.7 lbs over 41 lbs lighter. lighter car mean faster. now remember 725-275= 420 so I spent 420 for a lighter 41+ lbs car. the same thing a lighter wheel rim will make it faster. anything that lighten you car will make it faster. remember 41+ lbs lighter just try to take out 41+ lbs
I believe I can take even more off the laden weight of my SC. I'm 220 lbs., s/b 185. Time for a diet!
Wow it's nowhere close as simple as saying this size front or rear bar is best. This being a double wishbone front suspension. Front body roll changes camber for turning in a positive manner. Now hat spring rates you have up front and the tires are the next question in the equation. On the street your going to want a softer spring than you would on the track. To stiff and the tires are not going to stay in contact with the road over bumps. Stiffer springs your not going to want the same bar as if you have the stock springs. If you have a stiff setup and put a set of all season tires on. You will end up with less grip if you have a stiffer bar. It will plow on turn in and make it hard to drive at the limit. With more roll you gain camber and load on the inside tire to help initiate turn in. Put a tire like Bridgestone re11's then the grip changes the dynamics once again. More grip is going to give you more body roll because your driving into the corner faster. Now that bar is to small because the tire grip can over power it. And this is just scratching the surface. We haven't even talked about the rear. Talked about roll center, center of gravity. Strewing axis inclination , and scrub radius. Are you want a car that can handles very tight turns, or more sweeping turns. Then there is driving style. If your the type to drive in deep into the corner. If you set up to abig bar in the rear that car is going to come around on you as you take your foot off the gas. Because how you drive changes how, what, and how much each corner loads or unloads. Then if you have coil overs how you corner balance the car changes what other pieces you want. Comer balancing is just using a tape measure. You have to put it up on the scales.
I have my BMW set to drive hard. With that said I wouldn't want the same feel in my sc430 to drive it at an autoX event. As far as sway bars. My BMW has a huge 32 mm up front and a 12 mm out back. It's also different because it uses McPherson struts up front. The ac with the longer wheel base double wishbone up front I would prefer it on the lose side. It would if with the rear bar first then chose what I needed up front.
I'm just trying to say there's a lot to take into consideration before buying parts. Know what your trying to accomplish and make an educated plan to get there.
I believe I can take even more off the laden weight of my SC. I'm 220 lbs., s/b 185. Time for a diet!
I lifted out the passenger and driver seat last week. I would say they are easily 60 lbs each. Remove at least the passenger for race day and you're on your way to a lighter SC. Hello, 5.0 sec!!!
Street only Sway Bar setup recommendations please!.
Question from a newbie. BTW this is a great board. (I am coming over from several MB boards where there are people who worked in the industry and really know what they are doing. Also, one of my best friends is a master MB Tech. If you have an MB question, let me know. If I can't find the answer I shall let you know.)
Just acquired, the car is a 2002 GS430. It has had religious 5k dealer service until I acquired it. I want to drive it on the street only, no track, primarily in the warm months. The stock car has a bit too much body roll for me. I use summer max performance tires on 18" rims. After some years of owning various marques, e.g. NSX with this type of suspension, upgrading the sway bars is the first step.
I am pragmatic and do not wish to start drilling, cutting and dismantling the car. I'd like to retain stock brackets and the equivalent that fit the holes already in the chassis. It looks like the 30mm Figs is a drop in choice for the front bar. What should I use in the rear?
What is the best combination of sway bars, and allied parts, to meet my needs? Remember, street only!
Last edited by ivanj; Apr 19, 2019 at 03:10 PM.
Reason: spelling and terrible typing