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Rollaboy - I shorted out my climate control when I dissembled and cleaned/reattached the screen so I had to get another one (the entire thing) which I purchased from a salvage parts dealer for about $200 ish. That's way better than new. I have the old one but messing around I broke the display.
How did I originaly short it out? The blue wiring ribbons have a glued plastic plate at the ends that separates the wires. Due to age, the glue had dried and that plate was loose so when I put it all a back together two wires made contact. Those ribbons are really cheap at Sewell so you might simply want to replace them (there's two).
Just order your parts in advance. One bit of advice. The VSC switch back base is much easier to remove than the Power switch. The VSC switch comes with a white backing. The Power switch has a black back and in order to replace the bulb you must remove the entire switch housing.
Thanks much. Parts are ordered. It turns out my power switch bulb is burnt out so might as well change them all.
Regarding the missing clock segments problem; there could be any number of things causing the segment to not activate. Since I don't know how the display is connected to the micro-controller/processor, I'll have to make multiple guesses.
If by cable, there could be a socket that is no longer making a good connection. If by board-to-board SIM solder connection (or a bunch of individually soldered wires, which is what your picture indicates), there could be a solder joint that has gone bad. More than likely, the micro drives each individual segment with a separate pin or driver, that being the case the driver could have died requiring that either the driver internal to the micro or the external driver be replaced. (More than likely, the micro drives the LCD segments directly rather than using external drivers.) If in the unlikely case the display is not a pin-for-pin individually driven display (rather than a serially or parallel interface), then there is a problem in the display itself.
If it were me, I'd look for loose wires and bad solder connections. After that it becomes an electronic debugging project that is typically beyond the scope of the majority of home projects. (That's not to say you can't do it but the scope of the project increases tremendously.)
Doesn't sound good that your climate control got toasted SlvBullet Will definitely get these so i don't get into the same problem after replaced all the LED's and assembled it all again
I guess the two connecting cables are #88484
Wonder what the problem with the display could be. The difficulty is that it cannot be fully disassembled without removing all the LED's and the display itself to search for bad connections. I can post some more pictures if that could help? Since i have seen it before on other sc430's it must be a common problem.
But i cant just get another one since mine is from europe and shows celcius instead of fahrenheit and 24h clock instead of 12h so they are different and very hard to find over here.
Doesn't sound good that your climate control got toasted SlvBullet Will definitely get these so i don't get into the same problem after replaced all the LED's and assembled it all again
I guess the two connecting cables are #88484
Wonder what the problem with the display could be. The difficulty is that it cannot be fully disassembled without removing all the LED's and the display itself to search for bad connections. I can post some more pictures if that could help? Since i have seen it before on other sc430's it must be a common problem.
But i cant just get another one since mine is from europe and shows celcius instead of fahrenheit and 24h clock instead of 12h so they are different and very hard to find over here.
Yes those are correct parts. Good luck - yes post a picture to see what's going on.
Heres some new pictures. Can't see any problems on the board. Everything looks fine. Only thing that catches my eye is the weird mark/dent on the two blue cables.
It is hard to tell by the pictures but there are a few questionable solder joints around the R54 reference designator. It also looks like there are a few pins that have been retouched in the long SIM (below the C8 reference designator). I'm not an expert on solder joints but those are the most suspicious solder joints that I can see from the pictures. If you know of an electrical technician that solders for a living, you might ask them to check it out and touch up the questionable solder joints.
I doubt that the cable is the problem since there aren't enough contacts to cover all of the display segments. If you want to check out the cable though, you can take it completely loose and do a connectivity check. Make sure that all the contacts have continuity from one connector pin to the connector pin on the opposite end. Then also check to make sure that no connector pins are shorted to their neighbors. If you want to be real thorough, run your check while wiggling the connectors on each end. If while wiggling the connector the connection goes away, you found a problem (though most likely, not THE problem).
Rollaboy, thx and great work. BTW I used 3528 smd LEDs for the door switches which give off more light. I selected the bright white LEDs. But any color will do, it's a matter of taste.
Lastly I haven't been spending too much time on the CL Forum because I recently sold my SC. I purchased the car I've been eyeing for a long time. I purchased the Porsche 911_50th Anniversary edition with a limited run of only 1963 cars world wide. I could not resist passing this opportunity at such a great deal. The color is a Geyser Grey Metallic with 430 HP and many other extras.
Hey Darth, I tried to search for 3528 LEDs but came up with nothing. Can you confirm the LEDs that you used to replace the lights in the window and lock switches? Maybe a link, please?
Hey Darth, I tried to search for 3528 LEDs but came up with nothing. Can you confirm the LEDs that you used to replace the lights in the window and lock switches? Maybe a link, please?
Shawn, try this website. This is where I purchased the 3528 SMD LEDS, plus the 5050 SMD LEDs. Just conduct a search in the site by typing 3528 SMD LEDs.
Shawn, try this website. This is where I purchased the 3528 SMD LEDS, plus the 5050 SMD LEDs. Just conduct a search in the site by typing 3528 SMD LEDs.
daethsid
sorry to see you going. the person that got your car got something nice. that car you got is very nice. you will be missed here.
Thanks Bacardi....... I'm still lingering around the CL Forum for a while. I do miss my SC but I have a new beast sitting in my garage that craves attention. She has so much more to offer and I find my spare time just reading the owners manual. I thought my SC was fast! I now have a six banger boxer engine with 430 horses. I'm loving her more each day.
01-11-15, 11:16 AM
Climate control
Will definitely get these so i don't get into the same problem after replaced all the LED's and assembled it all again 
