Wheels...hmmm???
Okay...so I've read all the wheel treads and have a question.
I'm looking at putting 20"s on the SC. The wheels I'm looking at are 20X8.5 front and rear. I notice a lot of people doing 9.5 in the front and 10 in the rear with the proper offsets, but what kind of difference am I going to see or not see if I go 8.5 all the way around?
Sorry...if this is a stupid question.
Josh
I'm looking at putting 20"s on the SC. The wheels I'm looking at are 20X8.5 front and rear. I notice a lot of people doing 9.5 in the front and 10 in the rear with the proper offsets, but what kind of difference am I going to see or not see if I go 8.5 all the way around?
Sorry...if this is a stupid question.
Josh
You're not going to really see a difference. One main reason people run a staggered set-up is to have more tire in the rear with the plus of a larger lip.
I believe the 430's are the same wheel all-around, so you should not have any issues running the same all-around. Plus you get to one-up the guys that are staggered, you get to rotate your tires with ease.
I believe the 430's are the same wheel all-around, so you should not have any issues running the same all-around. Plus you get to one-up the guys that are staggered, you get to rotate your tires with ease.
You're not going to really see a difference. One main reason people run a staggered set-up is to have more tire in the rear with the plus of a larger lip.
I believe the 430's are the same wheel all-around, so you should not have any issues running the same all-around. Plus you get to one-up the guys that are staggered, you get to rotate your tires with ease.
I believe the 430's are the same wheel all-around, so you should not have any issues running the same all-around. Plus you get to one-up the guys that are staggered, you get to rotate your tires with ease.

P.S. I do have to say the staggered look with the nice fat lip is very sharp, but for me...just not necessary.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 879
Likes: 7
From: Formerly Easton, Pa. Bradenton FL, now Osprey Fl.
Plus if you want to push the wheels out a little you can always put on spacers in the front and rear or just the rears to also change the look. With the spacers you can still rotate your your tires.
I don't think there's any reason to use spacers. If you're ordering them new, just get them in the offsets you want. Spacers can be problematic. I'd avoid them.
If you were to do 9.5" in the front and 10" in the rear, there are drawbacks. That wide of a front tire will give more resistance when turning. The wheels will want to keep going straight. And the wider you go in the year, the slower you are off the line. The more surface contact you have with the road, the more torque it takes to turn the wheels. 10" isn't too bad, but any wider and you start to see a significant difference.
If you were to do 9.5" in the front and 10" in the rear, there are drawbacks. That wide of a front tire will give more resistance when turning. The wheels will want to keep going straight. And the wider you go in the year, the slower you are off the line. The more surface contact you have with the road, the more torque it takes to turn the wheels. 10" isn't too bad, but any wider and you start to see a significant difference.
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 879
Likes: 7
From: Formerly Easton, Pa. Bradenton FL, now Osprey Fl.
Some do and some don't. The thicker spacers usually have the studs already on them, you just take off the wheel bolt on the spacer and replace the wheel (plug and play). I've had mine on for a while. Haven't had any problems (knock on wood). I didn't replace my wheels just using the stock ones. If you are considering getting a set, make sure you get the hub concentric ones. That is the ones that have a raised ridge that the wheel centers on when installing the wheel. Otherwise you have to get hub rings for that purpose. If your wheel isn't centered on the hub, when tightened you will get a vibration. I would say the whole purpose of the spacers are to get the look, while still being able to buy a set of 4 tires the same, so you can rotate. IMO
Guys-sorry for the late post on this, but I am considering spacers on Ebony to push the wheels out just a bit (.5") due to the drop and negative camber the coilovers produced. I like to have my wheels almost flush with the fender, and I've got a half an inch to spare.
I'm a loyal Discount tire guy and always buy my tires there for their free balance, rotate and air check for life. They put my wheels on with the hub centric rings, tires, etc.
I called today and asked them about spacers and they told me that they don't even work on cars with spacers due to all the problems with them and they are a safety concern. I haven't called around, but what's the scare about spacers?
I saw the kind that have the rings, and have their own bolts. So these just go over the studs on your hub and it literally is plug and play?
Anyone have experiences with these??? Looks like the Ichiba Version 2 are hub centric and have the studs already. What's the issue to be concerned with? Based on the calculations, I would need the 20mm to push the wheels out .5-.75". I can go up to .75" on both, but I don't want the tires sticking out, so I'll go more conservative.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ICHIB...Q5fAccessories
I'm a loyal Discount tire guy and always buy my tires there for their free balance, rotate and air check for life. They put my wheels on with the hub centric rings, tires, etc.
I called today and asked them about spacers and they told me that they don't even work on cars with spacers due to all the problems with them and they are a safety concern. I haven't called around, but what's the scare about spacers?
I saw the kind that have the rings, and have their own bolts. So these just go over the studs on your hub and it literally is plug and play?
Anyone have experiences with these??? Looks like the Ichiba Version 2 are hub centric and have the studs already. What's the issue to be concerned with? Based on the calculations, I would need the 20mm to push the wheels out .5-.75". I can go up to .75" on both, but I don't want the tires sticking out, so I'll go more conservative.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ICHIB...Q5fAccessories
I could see the concern since the wheels would not be directly bolt to the car. They're bolted on the spacer and the spacer is bolted to the car. I was actually considering getting this type of spacer, so my wheels would still be directly bolted to the car, but I would lose 5/16" (spacer thickness) of thread. I'm also interested to see what others have done.
Last edited by redliner8; Dec 21, 2010 at 12:18 PM.
Some do and some don't. The thicker spacers usually have the studs already on them, you just take off the wheel bolt on the spacer and replace the wheel (plug and play). I've had mine on for a while. Haven't had any problems (knock on wood). I didn't replace my wheels just using the stock ones. If you are considering getting a set, make sure you get the hub concentric ones. That is the ones that have a raised ridge that the wheel centers on when installing the wheel. Otherwise you have to get hub rings for that purpose. If your wheel isn't centered on the hub, when tightened you will get a vibration. I would say the whole purpose of the spacers are to get the look, while still being able to buy a set of 4 tires the same, so you can rotate. IMO
I could see the concern since the wheels would not be directly bolt to the car. They're bolted on the spacer and the spacer is bolted to the car. I was actually considering getting this type of spacer, so my wheels would still be directly bolted to the car, but I would lose 5/16" (spacer thickness) of thread. I'm also interested to see what others have done.
To gain almost an inch, you will need the bolted spacer mentioned earlier.
Guys-sorry for the late post on this, but I am considering spacers on Ebony to push the wheels out just a bit (.5") due to the drop and negative camber the coilovers produced. I like to have my wheels almost flush with the fender, and I've got a half an inch to spare.
I'm a loyal Discount tire guy and always buy my tires there for their free balance, rotate and air check for life. They put my wheels on with the hub centric rings, tires, etc.
I called today and asked them about spacers and they told me that they don't even work on cars with spacers due to all the problems with them and they are a safety concern. I haven't called around, but what's the scare about spacers?
I saw the kind that have the rings, and have their own bolts. So these just go over the studs on your hub and it literally is plug and play?
Anyone have experiences with these??? Looks like the Ichiba Version 2 are hub centric and have the studs already. What's the issue to be concerned with? Based on the calculations, I would need the 20mm to push the wheels out .5-.75". I can go up to .75" on both, but I don't want the tires sticking out, so I'll go more conservative.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ICHIB...Q5fAccessories
I'm a loyal Discount tire guy and always buy my tires there for their free balance, rotate and air check for life. They put my wheels on with the hub centric rings, tires, etc.
I called today and asked them about spacers and they told me that they don't even work on cars with spacers due to all the problems with them and they are a safety concern. I haven't called around, but what's the scare about spacers?
I saw the kind that have the rings, and have their own bolts. So these just go over the studs on your hub and it literally is plug and play?
Anyone have experiences with these??? Looks like the Ichiba Version 2 are hub centric and have the studs already. What's the issue to be concerned with? Based on the calculations, I would need the 20mm to push the wheels out .5-.75". I can go up to .75" on both, but I don't want the tires sticking out, so I'll go more conservative.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ICHIB...Q5fAccessories
I bought what I thought were Ichiba spacers (20mm front, 25mm rear) off ebay and they didn't come in an Ichiba box. Threw them on anyway and they worked fine, but vibrated a little at certain speeds. I had to keep playing around with electrical tape on the hubcentric lips to get rid of the vibration. I never fully got rid of it, but it was a lot more tolerable.









