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Window regulator fix for Sc models

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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 05:33 AM
  #31  
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Top thread, good explanation and helpful pics. My passenger side went last saturday. So this thread is great timing and WILL save me a lot of money

Last edited by 555; Jul 1, 2004 at 05:36 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 03:44 PM
  #32  
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id like to say using a 15mm wrench to get of the regulator off the window is 100x easier than other ways explain previously, if you going to do this job i highly recommend getting a 15mm wrench before.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:37 PM
  #33  
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So yeah... had the same thing happen to me... but i did as you said and JB Welded et al... Rewrapped the regulator put it all back together but within24 hours the damn thing breaks again! Tried once with JB Wink (the 4min set time) and then once with JBWeld (15hour set).... Both didnt work.... (I let both dry for 24 hours before reinstalling)

Any suggestions??

BTW - I have a Lexus OEM PDF doc that explains how to take apart the door and window to get to the regulator... YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BEND THE RAIL!!!! If you arent skilled enough to put it back youll always have that rough spot and itll make noise and put extra stress on the motor... Dont make the smae mistake I made and just go at it and f--- up your tint.... Do it right the first time... Itll take longer but its worth it.... Messgae me if you want a copy of the document...

Last edited by hotttoddie; Jul 7, 2004 at 11:40 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:41 PM
  #34  
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The glue you were using was trying to adhere to an oil infested plastic piece. i had to scrub mine with Comet cleanser many times to get all the oil off. then i made sure to use the dremel to rough up the plastic for good adhesion, and washed the plastic again.

it's all about getting the grease off and out of the plastic. then creating a good rough surface for it to grab to.

Last edited by O. L. T.; Jul 7, 2004 at 11:42 PM.
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Old Jul 7, 2004 | 11:54 PM
  #35  
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hrmmm... maybe i need to clean it better.... the dremel is a good idea.... although from what i saw it see the JBweld was starting to fail/crack around the point it attaches to the cable (where it had no adhesion point after the plastic)... so the more i moved the cable the more i saw it was starting to fail....

did you use several coats? did you apply the weld up the wire cable any distance? (would you recommend that?)
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 12:15 AM
  #36  
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I too have tried JB Quik, original JB weld, and Epoxy. The epoxy held the longest but they all gave out after not too long. I thought I cleaned the plastic piece fairly good, and scuffed it up with sandpaper.

So for now I have jammed my window up with a piece of wood while I figure out my next plan of attack.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 01:25 PM
  #37  
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Dealer wants $588.07 for a new power window regulator on the passenger side. Any other places to order one less expensive.

Also I had to use a 14mm socket wrench to get the window off - not a 15 mm.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 03:07 PM
  #38  
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I gave up... tried three times... scuffed and cleaned and JBWelded... all failed... think it had something to do with the heat here in TX because I had to JBweld something on my door lock assembly... both failed at the same time...

anywho... ended up costing me 127.50 after my wholesale discount for the regulator - could have bought it form the toyota dealer for 30 less, but would have had to wait over a week... and then i had to buy a new door lock assembly.. that was another 220... my wallet genltly weeps...

ill post the OEM part numbers for the parts i purchased so you all can just goto the toyota dealer and save some cash...

-todd
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 04:08 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by hotttoddie
I gave up... tried three times... scuffed and cleaned and JBWelded... all failed... think it had something to do with the heat here in TX because I had to JBweld something on my door lock assembly... both failed at the same time...

anywho... ended up costing me 127.50 after my wholesale discount for the regulator - could have bought it form the toyota dealer for 30 less, but would have had to wait over a week... and then i had to buy a new door lock assembly.. that was another 220... my wallet genltly weeps...

ill post the OEM part numbers for the parts i purchased so you all can just goto the toyota dealer and save some cash...

-todd
good job im always down to save some cash..hehe

CEO
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 08:09 PM
  #40  
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ok here they are... OEM Part numbers for

the window regulator for a 1995 SC300 is
R - 69801-24041
L - 69802-24041

the door lock assembly for a 1995 SC300 is
L - 69040-24080

now run children... goto the toyota dealer... save....

hopefully i can save some money for the rest of you who cant get O.L.T.'s fix to work...

-t
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 06:25 AM
  #41  
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Originally posted by hotttoddie
ok here they are... OEM Part numbers for

the window regulator for a 1995 SC300 is
R - 69801-24041
L - 69802-24041

the door lock assembly for a 1995 SC300 is
L - 69040-24080

now run children... goto the toyota dealer... save....

hopefully i can save some money for the rest of you who cant get O.L.T.'s fix to work...

-t
Which is R and L? Could you use D and P instead?
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 09:19 AM
  #42  
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Believe it nor not the price I was quoted $588 was from the local Toyota dealer (two of them). These prices are NUTS.
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Old Jul 22, 2004 | 09:35 AM
  #43  
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liquid nail works good as a bottom or top coat, as long as it is included in the repair. There are literaly tons of industrial adhesives out there if something doesn't work well in your climate.
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Old Jul 28, 2004 | 12:00 PM
  #44  
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much praise to you

this has helped me so much thanksss
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 12:35 AM
  #45  
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Default Regulator fix

Finished mine this weekend. This is a tough fix. You have to line up 6 bolts with 6 holes, and line up the window at the same time.. 4 hands would help a lot. This was by far the hardest self fix I have attempted.
1 & 1/2 hours of hell. I completed the BFI , power steering pump, door handle fix, antenna fix, trunk strut fix, replaced sparkplugs and wires. This was harder than all the others. I did not take the window out, so that may have made it more diffucult, but I couldn't find decent instructions on how to do it.
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