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Is a seized caliper the culprit?

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Old Oct 14, 2003 | 09:19 AM
  #1  
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Technics
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Angry Is a seized caliper the culprit?

Shortly after having four brand new tires installed I would hear a "thumping" sound coming from the right rear tire that would last five miles and then go away. I thought the tire might be defective so I called Tire Rack and they sent a replacement. So I go to have the tire mounted and the mechanic noticed the right rear wheel was harder to turn freely than any of the other wheels. We took a look and the rotor was burning hot and the caliper was partly seized. So now I need a new caliper and rotor but I'm not sure if that was what caused the "thumping". On the way to work today I heard it again. I was wondering if anyone else had something like this happen before or is this a common problem on the SC's.

The shop quoted me $450 to have the caliper, two rear rotors and pads installed. Price doesn't sound right to me. I think I can just replace the damaged rotor, right? I might do it myself it I can find the time but I know I can't upgrade to the TT brakes because of clearance so stock it is. Any thoughts?
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Old Oct 14, 2003 | 01:36 PM
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technics,
can't help with the thumping sound, but what exactly did the mechanic do to verify the caliper was seized?
Could it have been the caliper bolts that were seized? (common problem) or your parking brakes? (possible problem).

You can get by with just replacing the damaged rotor, but you have to replace both side pads and the cost for another new rotor is not much more. $450 sounds right for new pads, 2 new rotors, 1 new caliper plus labor but...... are you SURE the caliper is seized?
Be sure to really flush out all the oil brake fluid in the line as it's overheated and probably broken down.
I believe the 2 piston supra rears will fit the 16" stock wheels, but you will be upsetting the front/rear bias so it's definately not reccomended.

Luck
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Old Oct 14, 2003 | 05:35 PM
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Thanks Nick,

We tested the caliper bolts with vise grips and they moved freely. We then tried to compress the piston within the caliper and it would barely move. We had to take turns trying to compress it. From what I understand it should move pretty freely as well.
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Old Oct 15, 2003 | 08:54 AM
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technics,
The caliper pins, sorry not bolts( my mistake on previous post) should move freely by hand. No need for vise grips. It does sound like your caliper is seized. Good Luck

Regards
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Old Oct 16, 2003 | 08:42 PM
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i don't see what cost so much... 450? i can get u replacement rotors, calipers, pads and installed for cheaper. these calipers,rotors,pads are from my car and they are all in good condition =x. the pads got 90 percent beef left on em. rotors are good, don't need to be cut. calipers work fine.
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Old Oct 23, 2003 | 01:43 AM
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You can rebuild your stuck caliper. Just get a set of vice grips and pull the piston all of the way out of the caliper. Take some fine emery paper and clean the bore. Buy a new piston ($20) and reassemble using new seals (I think a rebuild kit for both calipers is about $30). Voila! - your brakes will work like new.
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Old Oct 27, 2003 | 02:08 PM
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hey technics if you want my mechanic can rebuild them for you. pm me if your interested.
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Old Oct 28, 2003 | 06:43 PM
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Originally posted by 98SC400
You can rebuild your stuck caliper. Just get a set of vice grips and pull the piston all of the way out of the caliper. Take some fine emery paper and clean the bore. Buy a new piston ($20) and reassemble using new seals (I think a rebuild kit for both calipers is about $30). Voila! - your brakes will work like new.
Thanks for the tip, this is something I'm going to look into.
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