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For whatever it's worth to you... I cranked my GTE motor after it sat for a while for about 10 seconds to build pressure. Let it sit, and started the bad boy right up. Ran it for about 100 miles and then did another oil change to get anything goofy out of there. I was surprised how black it came out...
Thanks Rudy. I think i'm ready for this to finally work out lol
^^burned a few starters not following what Gerry said till I learned to do the crank for 6-8 seconds max, and then pause, then go again. Sometimes if you wait a day the starter might come back to life, sometimes they just get fried from the overheating. older standalone's weren't that great at starting the car and easy to burn up starters before you get it dialed in.. but they have come a long way and not as big of a deal anymore.
^^burned a few starters not following what Gerry said till I learned to do the crank for 6-8 seconds max, and then pause, then go again. Sometimes if you wait a day the starter might come back to life, sometimes they just get fried from the overheating. older standalone's weren't that great at starting the car and easy to burn up starters before you get it dialed in.. but they have come a long way and not as big of a deal anymore.
I know all about this from my old small block car haha. I have two starters on hand and my original is still kicking but like you said i crank 6-8 seconds max and let it cool off.
you guys think i should pull the plugs when i do the crank priming? theory in my head is no compression = easier on the bearings until it sucks up some oil.
Last edited by silentkill; Jun 29, 2020 at 01:50 PM.
That one has been debated and I don't think you will have an issue either way in your case.
If you pull the plugs there might be less cylinder pressure but you are spinning the engine faster.
the faster rpm's will build pressure faster, but are you spinning too fast at first??
couldn't tell you with any certainty but I think the safer bet is to pull them.
filling the oil filter before hand is always a good idea also, and pull the injector clips.
Unless the bottom end has been apart I would probably just fill it with oil, cycle it once, and then fire it up and see what happens, but since that didn't work out on the other one I understand the extra precaution but this engine is already proven and itll build pressure right away if nothing has changed.
Got one of my return lines made to my flex sensor, love this black nylon stuff. Don't mind the bashed in booster i should throw some paint on it while the engines out lol.
Pretty much wrapped it up, haven't been able to get it to fire yet, as i need to sync the timing with the standalone again. I'll work on it more in the next couple days.
50+psi cold oil pressure, once it was warmed up 35-38psi at idle.
You made fast work of this resurrection! Sounds like it's running smoothly!
I don't know if this helps or not but as I learned from SupraForums threads a while back the normal/average 2JZ-GTE oil pressure at idle on a stock engine (650-800rpms unless it's at slightly higher idle in some situations with the A/C compressor on) when full operating temperature is reached is between 25-30psi. With a stock ECU. This is what I've consistently observed in my car.
With a 2JZ-GE block, a single and the GE style oil pump it's probably a different normal idle pressure especially if your aftermarket ECU's normal idle speed setting at full operating temp is higher than 650-800rpm.
It sounds overall like everything is in order though and that is probably just indicative of how oil pressure is with different JZ engine setups. Maybe Ali can comment on what he's observed as regular at-idle oil pressure on his NA-T cars
I haven't run the oil pressure gauge on my previous builds, the JZ does not usually have problems in this department with the stock stuff and I wan't pushing enough power or rpm's to warrant it.
Once you start mixing and matching or shimming pumps it's probably a good idea though to monitor it so you can get a baseline and compare.
It sounds like a healthy GE to me though, there are enough oiling differences between ge and gte that a straight comparison doesn't mean much.
Awesome news!! Let us know how the shakedown run goes. The engine bay turned out super clean.
Thanks buddy, my guy who helped me get it started dialed my tuneup a little more now it idles between 13-14AFR, idles around 960-990 and revs pretty cleanly.
I just need to bleed the clutch and throw the hood on and i can drive it (open downpipe for now lol)
my dumb *** forgot to tighten the rear port on the back of the head very well so thats slightly leaking and im not looking forward to cutting up my hand to tighten the clamp.
Does anyone have the information on the resister bypass on a 1997 cluster to get my tach functional? I have my standalone routed to pin #8 on the orange plug in the kick panel but nothing happens.
