Keep going, man! With so many different things to address and set right during an engine and transmission swap mistakes can happen. We've ALL been there. Don't feel bad-- you're getting everything in order now and that is what matters! All in all you're actually pretty close to your goal! Tedious as this current setback may be you are almost there!

Just to note in case since you're already in there setting up a new (to you) shortblock: you know that if you are using a GE block, use an OEM/Aisin 96+ VVT-i GE oil pump. If you are using a GTE shortblock, stick with the OEM/Aisin GTE oil pump. You don't want to use the lower pressure GE oil pump in a GTE block or a higher pressure GTE oil pump in the GE block.

What I was mentioning above is the little O-ring that MUST be installed on the engine block's lower surface (coat it with a little engine oil) right before you apply all the FIPG to your upper oil pan. That O-ring is P/N 90301-A0032.

See here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9898997

The two O-rings that you need to replace when you install your new oil pump onto the block are P/N's: 96721-24022 and 90301-A0032

See here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9885964

 

Appreciate it, this GE block is the original from my 1997 with 100k miles, it's already got that pump on there.
I ordered new oring for the pan, along with a strainer gasket. Ordered new orings for the pump but at this point i kinda don't even want to remove it since i know it worked well.

 

Waiting on gaskets/orings then i can assemble!

 

^^ Learning quick Just throw it back together and it should work out well.

 

Thanks! Getting the dowels out was honestly like 45 min affair between the both of them so i'm kind of upset i didn't do it in the first place haha.

One i got out by vise grip and hammer from the back, the other i had to keep stepping up drill bits until the bit finally caught and pulled it right out.

If all goes well i think i should be making some noise *maybe this weekend* depends how motivated i am as this year seems harder than most to push through lol

 

Sounds like they put up a fight but good you got them out. You seem pretty quick at assembly and disassembly so that's good but take your time lots of small stuff.

 

Yep that is definitely my downfall, I just try and rip through projects when i really don't need to, I'm going to take baby steps putting this together.
Hour or two a day goes a long way.

 

Almost got the pan's cleaned up, just need to finish up the lower pan then i can button up this underbelly.

 

Ali or Kahn,

How long would you say it takes to get oil pressure from cranking?

I ordered a priming tool but summit sucks and now says ship date is 8/14 so i will likely just try and starter crank it when its in the car.

update: definitely canceled that summit order screw that lol

 

Shouldn't take that long, unless you disassembled the bottom end it should still be somewhat lubricated since you didn't pull it that long ago so its probably fine.
You probably want to have all the oil stuff connected or plugged like the pressure sensor and oil feed line ports, those will drop more pressure if left open.
You could crack one of them open after some cranking to see when oil starts to come out.
I wouldn't worry about your old ge as much since it was a good runner, the reassembled motor should have had assembly grease in there.

 

Okay yeah i'm just trying to make sure it has the best chance it can. I even poured some oil down the filter hole that goes right to the pump. This engine did produce 25lbs on starter last year when i got the gauge hooked up.

I plan on putting the engine in and basically just hooking up the starter, putting an analog mechanical gauge on the T, having the feed hooked up and cranking it over (probably without plugs) until i see pressure.

Now that i'm thinking about it when i took it out and did the work the first time and put it back in, it built up oil pressure nearly instantly.

 

Hmm... all I know is that when I first cranked my built engine I only held the starter for maybe 8-10 seconds at a time with some pausing in between. I think it was between 8-10 seconds. I asked Gerry how long priming should be for and I believe that is what he told me. Doing that one or two times should definitely be enough. You don't want to risk burning out the starter motor running it too long.

Unfortunately I had no oil pressure gauge installed at that time so I have no idea how long it took the GTE to build its first full cold oil pressure or how much pressure that was. You having one installed already helps a lot. I was also using mineral break-in oil at the time: Comp Cams 10W-30. In my case at that time everything was freshly rebuilt right down to all the crank bearings, rod bearings, piston rings and cylinder wall cross-hatching.

I agree with Ali: hook up or otherwise plug all the oil sensor, feed and return lines first.

 

thanks! I'll let you guys know how it goes.

 

Just need to put it on the ground, setup the bellhousing/flywheel and throw it in the car.

 

For whatever it's worth to you... I cranked my GTE motor after it sat for a while for about 10 seconds to build pressure. Let it sit, and started the bad boy right up. Ran it for about 100 miles and then did another oil change to get anything goofy out of there. I was surprised how black it came out...