So glad to see you not give up and making this happen!!

 

This is the one! taking my stinkin time on it. Walk away when frustrated, all new orings/gaskets. Didn't touch the oil pump, prefilled the oil galley.

I ought to make a NAT checklist for dummy's like me after all this lol

 

Have you bench-tested the injectors or had them tested? Maybe the two fouled cylinders have bad injectors (flowing too much).

 

I swapped the offending injectors to different holes with no change in fouling.

 

Hmmm … This's going to come down to tuning/ECU or airflow/manifold. Hopefully it's a tuning issue, because that's a lot easier to deal with.

 

yeah i mean i went through every possible solution, i believe it leaves it down to the tune. I leak tested the intake and it was also fine.

 

I see. I assumed you checked for leaks already. However I was referring to a situation where the airflow inside the manifold itself is suspect. What manifold is it?

 

Stock GE lower intake (1997) welded to a XS power FFIM.

 

Yeah... Looking at online pictures of the manifold (basically a constant-diameter tube welded to runners), these are not the greatest when it comes to airflow. The stock GTE had a similar concept, but "similar" in fluid flow can be really different. Toyota had the resources to make sure their shape is sufficient. Air mass distribution to each runner can be all over the place, hence the fouled plugs (I'm assuming your ignition is ruled out).
Tuning can still deal with this by adding individual cylinder compensation (in this case (-) fuel percentage on cylinder 3 &4). Just not an ideal situation.

 

yeah i had thought this might of been the case. Not many options for a great intake on a GE that i can see aftermarket wise. Sleeperdesigns? Plazmaman?

 

lots of people have run those intakes for years with no issues including myself, unless something is wrong with the welding it should be fine. Good luck on the new build!

 

I'm just gonna run it and let sound work out the bugs. I think I'm going to have my harness redone by a professional though just to wrap up any loose ends on the build.

Thanks Ali. I swear ill get this thing figured out!

 

I'm happy that you're getting ever closer to having this new engine installed and running! You're checking everything so I don't think you'll leave any stone unturned.

Getting a professional to go over your engine harness can be a good idea. It just takes some time if you prefer to do all of that yourself. Continuity test every single wire in the harness and double check all of the connectors and terminal ends to be safe.

I'm excited for you man!!

 

Thanks Kahn! I just got the front accessories installed, oil pan, rear main and transmission stuff are left.

so far i've:
Cleaned and half *** painted block (cant even see most of it anyway lol)
Installed pilot bearing while engine was on the hoist
TT HG (cleaned block and head surfaces gently but not excessively)
ARP Studs
Checked valve lash (perfect, tight end of the allowed clearance)
Valve Seals
Pulled intake studs
Power washed the inside of my valve covers, re-sealed the baffles, installed valve covers
Plugs
Swapped over my timing belt set from the other engine (all this stuff is basically brand new)
Front main seal
All new water pump orings


Trying to be smart about this one too and marking all bolt's ive torqued as i do them.

 

That's a great checklist so far! Marking all the torqued bolts (with a grease pencil?) and generous use of the blue painter's tape is the right way to stay organized!

I think you've got this! It's just the usual long list of things to put into place and the usual wear components to replace with new or nearly new examples before you get ready to install it!

Whatever you decide to do regarding the engine harness just make sure it's gone through thoroughly. I don't remember... did you do your own harness wiring modifications so far?