CEL Code 31 SC300
CEL Code 31 SC300
Ok guys, Im stumped
I purchased my car back from the guy I sold it to several years ago, but it was in non-running condition. I had to completely replaced the head on my car, swapped out the head gasket for an OEM TT one for future plans, replaced the water pump and other maintenance items while it was all apart, got everything back together, started the car up and it ran like ****. I checked my CEL code and was getting code 31, so I replaced the IACV. Started the car again, ran pretty well for about 10 minutes until it got warm, started to sputter and then died again, giving me Code 31 once again. I replaced the MAF since that would be the last item related to that code, or so I thought, started the car let it run at idle for 15-20 mins until the motor warmed up and the idle dropped to normal, revved the engine up some, and then it started to sputter again and died, once again giving me code 31. WTF is left that could possibly be my issue?
Thank You in advance
92 SC300 5-speed
I purchased my car back from the guy I sold it to several years ago, but it was in non-running condition. I had to completely replaced the head on my car, swapped out the head gasket for an OEM TT one for future plans, replaced the water pump and other maintenance items while it was all apart, got everything back together, started the car up and it ran like ****. I checked my CEL code and was getting code 31, so I replaced the IACV. Started the car again, ran pretty well for about 10 minutes until it got warm, started to sputter and then died again, giving me Code 31 once again. I replaced the MAF since that would be the last item related to that code, or so I thought, started the car let it run at idle for 15-20 mins until the motor warmed up and the idle dropped to normal, revved the engine up some, and then it started to sputter again and died, once again giving me code 31. WTF is left that could possibly be my issue?
Thank You in advance
92 SC300 5-speed
Ok guys, Im stumped
I purchased my car back from the guy I sold it to several years ago, but it was in non-running condition. I had to completely replaced the head on my car, swapped out the head gasket for an OEM TT one for future plans, replaced the water pump and other maintenance items while it was all apart, got everything back together, started the car up and it ran like ****. I checked my CEL code and was getting code 31, so I replaced the IACV. Started the car again, ran pretty well for about 10 minutes until it got warm, started to sputter and then died again, giving me Code 31 once again. I replaced the MAF since that would be the last item related to that code, or so I thought, started the car let it run at idle for 15-20 mins until the motor warmed up and the idle dropped to normal, revved the engine up some, and then it started to sputter again and died, once again giving me code 31. WTF is left that could possibly be my issue?
Thank You in advance
92 SC300 5-speed
I purchased my car back from the guy I sold it to several years ago, but it was in non-running condition. I had to completely replaced the head on my car, swapped out the head gasket for an OEM TT one for future plans, replaced the water pump and other maintenance items while it was all apart, got everything back together, started the car up and it ran like ****. I checked my CEL code and was getting code 31, so I replaced the IACV. Started the car again, ran pretty well for about 10 minutes until it got warm, started to sputter and then died again, giving me Code 31 once again. I replaced the MAF since that would be the last item related to that code, or so I thought, started the car let it run at idle for 15-20 mins until the motor warmed up and the idle dropped to normal, revved the engine up some, and then it started to sputter again and died, once again giving me code 31. WTF is left that could possibly be my issue?
Thank You in advance
92 SC300 5-speed
Did you check the resistance of the wires for the MAF to the ecu? could be corrosion, or a spot where only a few threads of wire have a good connection in which youll want to unplug both the ecu and the maf sensor before doing either test. You can send 12 volts like hook up a wire from the positive on the battery and make sure you can get a test light to light on the other end. This lets you know theres enough electricity flow.
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