Hello guys.I was doing a headgasket on my 93 sc300.So I was using a 10mm and it stripped a bolt all the way next to the firewall.I then used a 12mm bihex socket,which got the rest of my bolts out,but it stripped this one even more.Any help at all is greatly appreciated.I live in the Dallas area btw.

 

If you need a new bolt just go to your local hardware store, and bring the stripped one with you. If you stripped the inner threads you'll need to get a tap and die set. Unbelievable handy if you work on stuff often, which it sounds like you do. Eventually things sometimes just get stripped. Then depending exactly where the bolt goes I'd add either sealant or loctite to it just to make sure. Harbor Freight has a tap and die set for about $32, but Autozone loans them out for free.

 

I think he means he stripped the top of the bolt and its stuck in the head still... you can try cutting a big slot into it and using a breaker bar and like a huge socket with a flat head, but i think there might be better ways... if you can get something welded to the top of it that might work also.

 

Thanks for the reply guys.The top of the bolt is stripped as Ali sc3 said.Not sure if there enough room to weld a nut in there but making a slot is a great idea!Do you know how I could cut a slot tho?

 

I know it is easy to strip that hex bolt on that head. What I do which I have done at least 4 times is ... "do a carefull drilling ". Using a drill bit the size of the head bolt shank ( take note -> NOT bolt head) , drill out slowly at the center of that head bolt. Once the head of that bolt is out , you can lift that head out and easily remove the remaining head bolt shank.

always worked for me ...just be careful .

 

Gerrb.I was thinking about doing that but the issue is its right next to the firewall and its really hard to get a straight shot down.Would I have enough power with a right angle adapter?

 

*EDIT* I like Gerrbs idea better, just get a really long bit, they have all kinds at home depot. a right angle setup could work but it'll just take longer.

I have not done this on a headbolt btw, so take it as a general suggestion.
I know there are lots of threads for this subject on various toyota forums, its one of those general problems that people run into on any cylinder head.

I figure dremel cause I doubt you can get an angle grinder in there. you will only get one good shot at backing it out. use the biggest breaker bar with a cheater bar over it so it breaks loose immediately. if you use a smaller bar and have to use lots of force it tends to flex and you have a lot bigger chance of it stripping.

on the older toyota trucks (and domestics) they used to have a "drag link" for connecting the steering box to the steering arm on the knuckle... and they make a special socket to tighten them up which is essentially a huge flat head on a socket, its like a 3/8 or 1/2" ratchet size and the other end is just a flat head of various thicknesses.
get one of those is what I would recommend, those headbolts are on tight. only place locally that I found has them is napa and they have lots of sizes, look around itll be hanging there somewhere. its not at any of the autozone advanced auto etc..

looks like this

 

The drill bit I used was a foot (12 inches) long . You don't want to hit any part of that head with your drill or drill bit.

IF the engine is still on the bay... then remove the hood so you have room to work with.

I have learned this method from my friend Jared some time back, the shop manager from Speed for Sale. I was about to trash the damn block till he told me to drill the head of the bolt. It always worked for me.

 

There are special sockets that can remove a stripped hex bolt.
https://www.craftsman.com/products/c...ofile-bolt-out

 

I tried using a rotary tool,but that didn't fit.Im trying to leave drilling as my last ditch effort cause it will be really hard to get a straight shot downward.Ill be heading to sears to get what dicer recommended or a grip tite,whichever works better.

 

As dicer said, if all you have done is rounded the head of the bolt off, there are some fine specialty tools out there that will grip the head of the bolt to remove it.

 

So I tried using a tool similar to what dicer recommended and that was too big.So now that cancels out a lot of things.Im going to try to chisel the head of the bolt out (Good idea?)and if that doesn't work somehow try to drill it.This is what the bolthead looks like.(except mine is now round)

 

Good news guys!After a week of struggling to get this bolt out my mechanic modified a torx t60 bit and hammered it in the bolt.The bolt was about to crack but Thankfully he got it out!

 

Cool man those things are nerve wrecks, your other option was to drill the head of the bolt.
glad you got it out!!