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So, I was planning to change my fuel filter once I run the tank of gas down to getting the warning light for low fuel. My 1998 SC300 has 87.000 miles and I am pretty sure it still has the original fuel filter.
I was intending to use the instructions written up in the Post by SC4double0 from 2011.
But the second page has me very concerned. It appears the original fuel filter did not have threads all the way in to allow the flared fuel line from the tank to seat up, but the assembly line workers just cranked it down and stripped the thread on the tip of the fuel fitting.
Thanks to the photos from mam on the second page, it appear Lexus had a problem.
I liked his idea to use a M14 x 1.5 die to try to clean up the threads if this is something I run into.
Does Lexus dealerships service centers know of this problem?
Does anyone know what years and car models were effected by this problem?
I know the car is over 15 years old, but did anyone successfully get Lexus to fix this problem?
I have done fuel filters on other cars and this not something I like to do even when everything goes well.
The idea of getting this apart and having a major problem really has me concerned.
Some people have said that Lexus used to change the filter for free, as a voluntary recall of sorts, having acknowledged how bad the factory screwed them ... no pun intended.
I'm not sure about the threading info you found, but it seemed to me that the filter and junction in the engine bay used some sort of sealant that turned rock hard. The threads themselves on the filter appeared fine once finally loosened, but getting to that point was my biggest automotive nightmare ever.
This quote from mam in 2011 on the other page might do a better job describing the problem.
Originally Posted by mam
... I just realized after careful thought and observation, that TOYOTA (denso?) had made a mistake in the manufacturing of these filter housings. take a look at the above filters and you will notice a difference in the machining for the threads. the NEW (current) filters are threaded all the way to the bottom, while the older filters are only partially threaded. So, in order to achieve a proper seal installers would have had to tighten the tube nuts into the unthreaded section, thereby stripping the bottom of the tube nut in order for it to seal onto the inverted flare.
Seriously, some good info in this thread... today's discovery should be added into the archives.:
Well I'm glad I didn't get into my filter before seeing this. if anyone has an answer for his die question I'm curious, because I have a die set ready to use.
Well I'm glad I didn't get into my filter before seeing this. if anyone has an answer for his die question I'm curious, because I have a die set ready to use.
The die needed to fix the potentially damaged threads would be a M14 x 1.5, ideally you would want to use a split die thread chaser.
With this you put it beyond the damaged threads and work your way off to clean-up the damaged threads.
I used one of these to fix some cross threaded lug-nuts and it worked great.
I really hate to pay ~$30 for one of these before knowing IF I am even going to have a problem.
My first thought is to potentially carefully try with the standard die started. It did appear to work for mam in 2011.
Fuel Filter Change Concerns
M14 x 1.5 Die
