Didnt read through the whole thread, but if its just on the fender then you might just be able to find a fender that same color. Should be like $100. Thats what I'd do.

 

Thanks fellas. I've been searching the sc classifieds today looking for alternatives. I appreciate everyone reaching out to me on this.

 

If you HAVE to paint the tips then you'll want a high temp paint in whichever color you'd like. In a perfect world you'd get it ceramic coated to hold up against the elements, road debris and of course the heat. Something that size would run about $30-40.

 

i bought "matched paint" on ebay, it didn't match lol but looks better than gray primer. those big gouges and scratches will have to be sanded down and filled in with body filler, paint alone won't do anything, same with the peeling clear coat. it's very easy to do, i've never done it and you can see in my build thread i just went for it, very straight forward.

as for getting the correct color, on the inside of your driver side door it should have a code for your color, sandstone beige is 4K9 for example, figure that out and you'll have a definite answer for what your color is.

 

I knew paint would not fill in gouges. I considered as a stop gap measure I might sand the little bit of rust in the gouges off, and paint the little dent to stop the rust. I didn't want to spray the 300 till spring if I could hold off, as I owe my Platinum 400 some paint love first. When I got my fenders rolled, the roller chipped my paint and it's been slowly rusting a bit. I want to sort that out next. I did not want to give the rust in the gouges on the 300 time to get worse over the winter. I thought I'd reduce the visibility of the "keyed" area and the white spots on the quarter, and mainly protect the metal over the winter until fixing and painting everything in the spring.

Thanks

 

just fill it in if you'll be sanding, get some 3M or bondo body filler and you won't have a dent there anymore, same with the scratch. better to just fix it right then to waste the paint then resand it and fix it all over again. if that's what you're getting at? i might be misunderstanding you.

 

My clear was peeling like that on the roof post. I wiped it with lacquer thinner then sprayed it with aerosol clear coat and it practically disappeared. Even my son who knows where it was has trouble finding it now.

 

Same here. The only problem I had was blending the new clear with the old clear. If you look just at the new portion, not at the transition, you would never guess.

 

Do you ever watch "Mighty Car Mods" on YouTube? Watch their recent episode on painting a busted up Legacy, its pretty much exactly how you should do it and on the cheap too. There are several websites that can send you color coded spray paint in body paint quality. Check it out..

 

So let me get this straight.. Even though to me it appears that the paint itself looks faded & the obvious clear peeling away... wiping it with lacquer thinner & then spraying it with an aerosol clear coat will bring it back to it's original state?

Forgive me if I sound stupid. I've never painted any cars.

 

That is a cheap backyard fix. I explained how to fix it so it will last & look professional on the cheap as a DIY. I think I have painted at least 1000 vehicles in my life & owned my own body shop for 15 years till I got tired of the headaches & customers trying to get something for nothing, when I'd already gave them a deep discount. The thinner will remove the wax & grease from the paint but will also soften or loosen your existing paint, suggest you use reducer instead.

 

i used automotivetouchuppaint.com to get porsche gt3 "grey black" paint to paint the wheels on my 911. I must say, it isn't like HVLP sprayed, but I was extremely impressed. Here are some pics to see what their 3 step aerosol paint comes out like





and lastly, fresh from getting the tires mounted after painting.