When changing Rack Bushings, what else is logical to change ?
When changing Rack Bushings, what else is logical to change ?
I am collecting front end parts to swap out proactively. So far I have a Prothane (or Daizen) control arm bushing kit, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links (coming in the mail). I have to change back to my summer wheels also.
I can't really afford to do it all today, but I wanted to swap the wheels, do the steering rack and get an alignment.
Is it a waste of money to do the other stuff later on? when doing the rack bushings, do you have to disassemble the front end to the degree that it would be a waste of money/time not to replace the other stuff too, or is the path to the other parts different? Would I save money doing it all together or is the rack bushing job isolated to that area and irrelevant to the other jobs.
If not done all at the same time, what is a logical sequence of getting these jobs done that maximizes mechanic paid hours?
I don't mind paying for another alignment after the other job but I'd like that to be the only "labor wasteful" move I make.
I'm at 125K miles, what else should I change. I was told my control arms are OK so far.
(I hope I explained this clearly enough)
Thanks,
SG
I can't really afford to do it all today, but I wanted to swap the wheels, do the steering rack and get an alignment.
Is it a waste of money to do the other stuff later on? when doing the rack bushings, do you have to disassemble the front end to the degree that it would be a waste of money/time not to replace the other stuff too, or is the path to the other parts different? Would I save money doing it all together or is the rack bushing job isolated to that area and irrelevant to the other jobs.
If not done all at the same time, what is a logical sequence of getting these jobs done that maximizes mechanic paid hours?
I don't mind paying for another alignment after the other job but I'd like that to be the only "labor wasteful" move I make.
I'm at 125K miles, what else should I change. I was told my control arms are OK so far.
(I hope I explained this clearly enough)
Thanks,
SG
rack bushings are a 30 minute job totally unrelated to the other jobs. I don't even think I took the wheels off. You do not need an alignment after that job If I remember right, it doesn't change the geometry of the suspension it just keeps the wheel centered better and the rack from moving. you can do it from underneath the car once you get the front end up.
sway bar end links are more of a they freeze and break/strip out when you take them off sometimes, so those are handy to have when you do the control arm job. If yours are OK, I wouldn't mess with it yet until you get the tell tale clunks especially from going to reverse on an incline of from reverse to drive etc. etc. it sounds like a small thud. I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
sway bar end links are more of a they freeze and break/strip out when you take them off sometimes, so those are handy to have when you do the control arm job. If yours are OK, I wouldn't mess with it yet until you get the tell tale clunks especially from going to reverse on an incline of from reverse to drive etc. etc. it sounds like a small thud. I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
sway bar end links are more of a they freeze and break/strip out when you take them off sometimes, so those are handy to have when you do the control arm job. If yours are OK, I wouldn't mess with it yet until you get the tell tale clunks especially from going to reverse on an incline of from reverse to drive etc. etc. it sounds like a small thud. I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
rack bushings are a 30 minute job totally unrelated to the other jobs. I don't even think I took the wheels off. You do not need an alignment after that job If I remember right, it doesn't change the geometry of the suspension it just keeps the wheel centered better and the rack from moving. you can do it from underneath the car once you get the front end up.
sway bar end links are more of a they freeze and break/strip out when you take them off sometimes, so those are handy to have when you do the control arm job. If yours are OK, I wouldn't mess with it yet until you get the tell tale clunks especially from going to reverse on an incline of from reverse to drive etc. etc. it sounds like a small thud. I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
sway bar end links are more of a they freeze and break/strip out when you take them off sometimes, so those are handy to have when you do the control arm job. If yours are OK, I wouldn't mess with it yet until you get the tell tale clunks especially from going to reverse on an incline of from reverse to drive etc. etc. it sounds like a small thud. I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
That is exactly what I needed to know.
Thanks again Ali!
Last edited by Studiogeek; Apr 3, 2014 at 04:49 PM.
I changed my control arm bushings out and I sort of regret not saving up for the supra control arms as the ball joint does not get changed with just the bushings, and I have heard of them failing after a long amount of time, basically even doing the bushings you will likely be replacing the whole arm in the next 100k. IT may be worth it though if your bushings are shot like mine were, but its an involved job that becomes like 10 times simplified if you have the whole supra arms.
What are the symptoms of the LCA's going bad?
Were you suggesting I change both upper and lower control arms or just one set? (I'm at 125K miles, I'd like to wait on the lowers if I can, but no biggie if it's advisable)
Do both upper and lower have ball joints?
Thank You much!
Last edited by Studiogeek; Apr 3, 2014 at 05:58 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 315
Likes: 1
From: LA
Lowers are the big losers, actually. I changed my bushings and in retrospect I could have done without the uppers being changed, they were perfectly fine.
The arms themselves do not wear or anything. The bushings do.
Both have ball joints. These are the parts that connect the arm to the wheel hub. If they are going bad, they will have play, and/or move too easily/not easily enough. Of course, those two last can be a mere issue with not enough grease as long as there is no play. One of mine suffered that condition and was easily rectified.
Good choice on getting them pressed out and in - the burning is SO not worth it.
The arms themselves do not wear or anything. The bushings do.
Both have ball joints. These are the parts that connect the arm to the wheel hub. If they are going bad, they will have play, and/or move too easily/not easily enough. Of course, those two last can be a mere issue with not enough grease as long as there is no play. One of mine suffered that condition and was easily rectified.
Good choice on getting them pressed out and in - the burning is SO not worth it.
Trending Topics
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Top 10 Most Confusing Things Lexus Has Ever Done!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Lexus ES Review: Lexus Re-Embraces Founding Principles
Michael S. Palmer
10 Lexus Bargains That are Cheaper Than a New Toyota RAV4
Joe Kucinski
8 Weirdest Things Lexus Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
10 Lexus Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Lowers are the big losers, actually. I changed my bushings and in retrospect I could have done without the uppers being changed, they were perfectly fine.
The arms themselves do not wear or anything. The bushings do.
Both have ball joints. These are the parts that connect the arm to the wheel hub. If they are going bad, they will have play, and/or move too easily/not easily enough. Of course, those two last can be a mere issue with not enough grease as long as there is no play. One of mine suffered that condition and was easily rectified.
Good choice on getting them pressed out and in - the burning is SO not worth it.
The arms themselves do not wear or anything. The bushings do.
Both have ball joints. These are the parts that connect the arm to the wheel hub. If they are going bad, they will have play, and/or move too easily/not easily enough. Of course, those two last can be a mere issue with not enough grease as long as there is no play. One of mine suffered that condition and was easily rectified.
Good choice on getting them pressed out and in - the burning is SO not worth it.
Thank You!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
akafixture
Suspension and Brakes
8
Nov 10, 2014 08:05 AM
Champstar
2Gen GS430 / 400/ 300 Classifieds (98-05)
12
Aug 7, 2009 04:12 PM