Doing Caster bushings and steering rack bushings. Any pointers?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
UPDATED.Doing Caster bushings and steering rack bushings. Any pointers?
Going to do the caster bushings and the steering rack bushings this weekend. I have the DIY's, but wanted to see if there was any other pointers that I didnt read on the DIY's. Im not pressing in new bushings, I just got whole new arms with bushings already pressed, so that will save time (very busy with a 2 year old running around).
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
Last edited by akafixture; 11-10-14 at 07:59 AM.
#2
Start with the steering rack bushings since they are the quicker of the 2 things to change out, especially if you have a little one that needs attention. The steering rack bushings can be done in less than hour.
#4
Driver
iTrader: (3)
When you do the steering rack bushings and you are doing the small ones that youre suppose to punch out.... Before you punch them out take a box cutter and cut the rubber ring around them off. You will see what I am talking about. This way they will punch out very easily and who cares if you cut them because you were going to throw them out anyway.
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Paulanth (03-16-24)
#5
On the caster arm, as soon as you take the 2nd of the two front bolts the suspension will buckle a bit and you won't be able to reinsert the bolts. Either get a spring compressor, or do what I did and do the other side and just let it sit for a while and it'll get closer to where it needs. If not perfect then put a second jack on the metal part of the bushing and help it twist so that it aligns with the holes. By far the most difficult part. Good luck.
#7
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (8)
I found through the few caster sets I've put on for people that its very hard to put them back on once the new ones are put in place (especially if they're the poly ones). Instead of putting the bushings on the arms first, I put the bushings on the car first, installed the 2 bolts for the caster arm (not all the way tight) place the caster arm over the bushing and use a jack to press the arm into the bushing while its on the car already. This will allow you to not have to blow your brains out trying to align the 2 bolts under the lower control arm. Once the bushings are in place on the arm, you dont have very much play at all to align the bolts. The arm will look flush, but its not, its off by literally a hair, and that hair makes a difference.
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#8
Rookie
iTrader: (15)
This is my method for caster arm installation:
-Remove the front lower shock bolt and loosen the three top nut (but do not remove) so the shock assembly dangles.
-Push the LCA down and pull the shock towards you so the assembly is out of the bracket.
-Disconnect the endlink from the sway bar and swing it out of the way.
- Remove the two bolts going into the balljoint and lift the hub off the balljoint (okay to let it hang)
-Install the two lower bolt for the caster arm into the LCA, but don't screw them in all the way.
-Now put in the big bolt. Most of the time I can do this by hand, but if it makes it easier for you, grab a slip-joint plier and rotate the arm until you can thread the bolt in.
-Tighten all the bolts and reinstall everything
The first few times I replaced caster arms, I wanted to take a sledgehammer to the car. After doing it this way, the ease of putting in the arm makes up for the time spent removing/loosening those 7-8 bolts. If you can muscle your way through without having to do any of this then go for it.
-Remove the front lower shock bolt and loosen the three top nut (but do not remove) so the shock assembly dangles.
-Push the LCA down and pull the shock towards you so the assembly is out of the bracket.
-Disconnect the endlink from the sway bar and swing it out of the way.
- Remove the two bolts going into the balljoint and lift the hub off the balljoint (okay to let it hang)
-Install the two lower bolt for the caster arm into the LCA, but don't screw them in all the way.
-Now put in the big bolt. Most of the time I can do this by hand, but if it makes it easier for you, grab a slip-joint plier and rotate the arm until you can thread the bolt in.
-Tighten all the bolts and reinstall everything
The first few times I replaced caster arms, I wanted to take a sledgehammer to the car. After doing it this way, the ease of putting in the arm makes up for the time spent removing/loosening those 7-8 bolts. If you can muscle your way through without having to do any of this then go for it.
#9
Driver
Thread Starter
put in the new casters bushings and steering rack bushings this weekend. Everything went smooth. The only scary part was i was pulling into my buddies garage and the passengers side lower ball joint nut came off some how. the bolt sherd off the cotter pin some how! Anyway, I was able to get a new crown bold. Steering rack took about 45 minutes and the caster arms took a about the same. The steering rack bushings didnt look bad at all, but they did need replacing. The new caster bushings also have eliminated my front end clunck going over bumps. The front feels much more stable. I have done tie rods, lower ball joints, Upper control arm bushings, steering rack bushings and caster arms.
Next will be the rear suspension, since I have a thud when I go from reverse to drive.
Next will be the rear suspension, since I have a thud when I go from reverse to drive.
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