I'm trying to install the Gixxer_Drew suspension, however I'm stuck at the part when it comes to using the new energy suspension bump stops. I installed the bump stop on the spring perch as shown. Though from this point I'm lost because the photo just shows the old bump stops being used. I'm new at this so forgive me for not catching on so quick. Any help would be appreciated as I'm in the process of doing this.

 

Hey Epix. I have this suspension. You have the *option* to re-use your original bump-stops OR the Energy Suspension units. When I installed mine I went for the latter. I found they do not actually stay in place in the top hat like the old ones (although they fit just fine).

You've probably taken the risk to just use one or the other by now. I decided to go with ALL the parts Andrew Brilliant (the designer) recommended to best replicate his result.

Did you choose the 500/250 or the 600/325 version?

 

KhannBB6, thanks for responding. I looked at your thread and Redphoenix as well. I ended up just using one energy suspension bump stop under the Bilstein spring perch. But for the Lexus top hat that had the factory bump stop, did I need to put a another energy suspension bump stop back in its place as well? I tried re reading everything as best as I could as well as look @ Gixxer_Drews pictures over again.

 

My bad I left out the spring rates you were asking for. I went with 500/250.

 

Epix,

It should only be one type of bump stop or the other, but I recommend what you ended up doing, using the Energy part.

 

KahnBB6, I sent you a P.M check your inbox.

 

Hey Epix,

did you ever get these installed? Did you have to use helper springs to get the car to not look like a 4x4 or did the original setup from the supra forums work out well for you? Im about to install these on my car.

 

If you guys need some more help...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/8378601-post514.html

 

I know I am bringing this back from the DEAD, but a few questions:

• 8052JZ - I did not see the Energy Suspension Bump Stops in your coil-over assembly. Did you not use them, or did I just miss them in the photos?
• Why the necessity to cut the 2" off of the 7" Coil-over sleeves? I just am having a hard time figuring out why this step needs to be done?
• Usually when I have updated a cars suspension, I typically also replace both the front and rear the Shock Top Mounts or "top hats". Is that not needed in the design of this setup?

 

two posts down on 8052JZ it says: The sleeve is tapered on the inside and the shock has a little groove in it as well so just the weight of the car will hold the sleeve in there if my memory is correct.

if you dont cut those two inches off you will have a 4x4 i believe

 

The bump stops are pressed into the top spring mount that sits into the tophat.
by cutting off the 2" you will be able to slide the sleeve all the way down. if you do not do this, the sleeve will be to tall and you will not have any spring adjustment.
I purchased all new top hats that were also used. But oem can be used..

^^^ and you will not be able to slide the sleeve all the way down.

 

Thank You - I was thinking that might be the reason.

I have done nearly this exact setup to two of my Mazda Miata's:

• Bilstien Shocks
• AllStar Performance Coil-Over Sleeves
• HyperCoil Springs
• Shorter Honda Bump Stops

What I did was pay $10 per shock to Bilstien to have them relocate the Snap Ring to the new location on the Shock Body. This way the inside square edge of the Coil-Over Sleeve securely sits on the Snap Ring and not the tapered edge of the Coil-Over Sleeve. Nearly all of the Bilstein resellers do not actually inventory the shocks and you can just ask to have this work done before they are shipped from Bilstein, so the cost is just $10 more than usual.


You can see the new snap ring location is about 2" below it original location.



What would be your guess of the distance from the top of the shock body (where the piston come out) and the top of the Coil-Over Sleeve. With that dimension for both shocks I can know where to ask to have Bilstein cut the new Snap Ring grove and relocate the snap ring.

 

Not saying anyone would care but here is my writeup on my Mazda Miata Custom Bilstein build.

 

Hey Flash9, I will also be attempting to install these this weekend since I finally got all the parts for this setup. Main issue is there seems to be a few ways to go about this to be able to have the correct preload and not be a monster truck. I'm not exactly sure which is the best but I decided to go for the way Lexxium described here...

My main problem at the moment is finding a machine shop in Houston willing to cut new snap ring grooves

 

If you are unsuccessful in finding a machine shop, for the cost of shipping the shocks to CA and back to TX as well as the $10 cutting fee per shock you could just have Bilstein do it for you.

I have done this for my two Mazda Miatas, but had them do the work BEFORE shipping the shocks thus saving the money on the shipping.

BTW - How do people move the snap ring on these shocks?

Please take a couple photos on where the Coil-Over Sleeves sit on the shocks once the new snap ring grove is cut.