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Crank, no start, code 12

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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 04:11 AM
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Default Crank, no start, code 12

I'm trying to figure out why my 95 sc300 won't start. It's getting a code 12 when I check the engine light. I've replaced the distributor and the ECU which didn't help. What steps should I take next?
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 06:02 AM
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I ave a 93 sc400 code 12 was 'rpm code' which usually means the cam sensor

ask your dealer what code 12 means
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 06:25 AM
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...pm-signal.html
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
I ave a 93 sc400 code 12 was 'rpm code' which usually means the cam sensor

ask your dealer what code 12 means
Dealer said it was a distributor but that didn't resolve my issue.

Thanks for the link, I've already attempted that.
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 01:33 PM
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If you have an inductive timing light you can check to be sure you are getting spark from coil to cap and cap to plugs. Your dizzy might be bad.
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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BiGEZ
If you have an inductive timing light you can check to be sure you are getting spark from coil to cap and cap to plugs. Your dizzy might be bad.
I'm am not getting spark from the coil.
The distributor has been replaced already with a known good unit. It didn't solve the issue.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 07:06 AM
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After trying to solve this for a couple of months I've decided to sell the vehicle . Hopefully I'll have better luck in the future. Thanks for everyones help.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 10:35 AM
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it could be the ignitor or maybe they replaced it with a bad distributor. also make sure the connector on the distributor is not cracked and make sure they put a new cap and rotor on it.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bmxkeeler
After trying to solve this for a couple of months I've decided to sell the vehicle . Hopefully I'll have better luck in the future. Thanks for everyones help.
Come on man keep the car it's something really easy to fix, you just have to know how to diagnose electrical stuff.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bmxkeeler
After trying to solve this for a couple of months I've decided to sell the vehicle . Hopefully I'll have better luck in the future. Thanks for everyones help.
Well, thats one way to fix it...I had a 71 Oldsmobile Cutlass and it had problems. I didn't have the drive to fix it, though, it was easy. I sold it for 1k. I still question my stupidity on that day I saw it drive away.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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Yeah it really hurts when someone shows up to buy it, fixes it on your street in a few hours, and drives off with a million dollar smile on their face

so I double checked the manual for a 95 2jzge and it says G or NE signal, all of which come from your distributor.
This should be an easy one to find, surprised the dealer couldn't fix it. has to be dizzy or the wiring to it. check the connector. take off the valve cover plastic piece and look for pinched wiring, anything out of place all the way to the ecu.
Did they replace it with a used distributor, if so try another one.
The force is telling me you may have a cracked connector from the exhaust heat and the pin maybe backs out when they push it in or doesn't make a solid connection. other possible issues are a battery that has damaged cells and is not providing enough cranking amps/voltage for a clean signal on cranking. don't give up its not that bad. for the battery you can just try jumping off another car. good luck and post back with more info.




Last edited by Ali SC3; Dec 18, 2013 at 02:25 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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I've tried 3 distributors and replaced the ECU, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, throttle body, injectors, FPR. I've checked the wiring and I've replace everything that was remotely old or scary looking. The battery is new and sits on a charger so I know it has plenty of cranking amps. The car will crank but all it does is use fuel.
I've decided after owning it for several months and only being able to drive it twice due to the multiple issues that I've had to fix that it's just not the car for me.
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Old Dec 22, 2013 | 09:43 AM
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Not sure if this will help but after washing one of my cars last week, my sc didn't want to cold start the very next day. Cranks but not start. Multi meter checked battery and it was OK at 12.5 then decided to change both post terminals and cut off half inch cable wires due to corrosion inside the terminal. Attached jump cables for more crank power and waited 10 minutes then Bam! She started and problem fixed.
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