Question for gtsfire RE Shift Lever
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From: Florida
Question for gtsfire RE Shift Lever
gtsfire
When you remove the four bolts that hold the shift mech in place, does the connector rod
that goes to the transmission have to be disconnected or can I just pull the shift unit up to
remove the thru bolt that holds the bushings?? In short, do I have to get under car as part
of this job. I was hoping it could all be done from cabin.
When you remove the four bolts that hold the shift mech in place, does the connector rod
that goes to the transmission have to be disconnected or can I just pull the shift unit up to
remove the thru bolt that holds the bushings?? In short, do I have to get under car as part
of this job. I was hoping it could all be done from cabin.
It will make it 100 times easier to be able to get under the car. Trying to hold it up and disconnecting the linkage wouldn't be easy. It can be done but the other way makes it a five minute job.
Shane
Shane
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From: Florida
Thx for reply. Hate jacking car up but guess in this case it would be worth the effort.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 86
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From: Florida
After considering having to remove the whole console, half the dash and jacking the car up
to get to the shift lever connection, I considered this just too overwhelming so I elected to try a modified fix.
After just removing the trim around the console (ash tray, shift **** and plastic shift cover) I was
able to access both the driver and passenger side pivot point where the bushings would
normally go.
I bought a chrome plated spring clip ( like a bobby pin) at Lowes, cut the length down to about
half. I knocked the pin into position where the passenger side bushing would normally go but there
was still quite a bit of play. Fortunately I had some steel "shim material" which came out of the windings of an old electric
motor which was perfect for this job. They were rectangular in shape (1" x 1.25") with a 7/16" wide 3/4" deep
slot in the middle. I don't have a micrometer so I don't know how thick they were
I was then able to tap the two shims into place between the chrome pin and the shift lever housing wall.
The fit was very snug and after greasing both sides of the pivot arm I ran the shift lever back and forth and
the shims stayed nicely in place and the pin did not rotate which is good cause that could dislocate the shims.
I realize that the drivers side pivot point will be rubbing (rotating) against the shift lever housing
but I don't think this will be a problem since use of the shifter is not very frequent.
Hope it hols up
.
to get to the shift lever connection, I considered this just too overwhelming so I elected to try a modified fix.
After just removing the trim around the console (ash tray, shift **** and plastic shift cover) I was
able to access both the driver and passenger side pivot point where the bushings would
normally go.
I bought a chrome plated spring clip ( like a bobby pin) at Lowes, cut the length down to about
half. I knocked the pin into position where the passenger side bushing would normally go but there
was still quite a bit of play. Fortunately I had some steel "shim material" which came out of the windings of an old electric
motor which was perfect for this job. They were rectangular in shape (1" x 1.25") with a 7/16" wide 3/4" deep
slot in the middle. I don't have a micrometer so I don't know how thick they were
I was then able to tap the two shims into place between the chrome pin and the shift lever housing wall.
The fit was very snug and after greasing both sides of the pivot arm I ran the shift lever back and forth and
the shims stayed nicely in place and the pin did not rotate which is good cause that could dislocate the shims.
I realize that the drivers side pivot point will be rubbing (rotating) against the shift lever housing
but I don't think this will be a problem since use of the shifter is not very frequent.
Hope it hols up
.
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