??Broken exhaust thread questions??
Alright, so my project has been going slowly for a while since I have been busy with school. But right before the semester started, as I was installing my turbo manifold the threads for the exhaust manifold bolt that is furthest back (cyl 6, top side if I recall) came off in the bolt, and it just spun 'round and 'round
. Needless to say that the threads are completely striped, and the bolt won't hold to save my life
.
Which brings me to my question: Would it be alright if I just left if be for the time being? I don't plan on boosting more than ~9 pis ATM, but would the missing bolt be a huge deal? If so, what recomendations can you guys give as to how to fix this, short of taking the head to be professionally redone. I recently came across the heli-coiling process,but this seems a tad sketchy for the intended application. Are there any alternatives to this process? Any and all input is appreciated, I know that this site has some high quality input (at times
).
. Needless to say that the threads are completely striped, and the bolt won't hold to save my life Which brings me to my question: Would it be alright if I just left if be for the time being? I don't plan on boosting more than ~9 pis ATM, but would the missing bolt be a huge deal? If so, what recomendations can you guys give as to how to fix this, short of taking the head to be professionally redone. I recently came across the heli-coiling process,but this seems a tad sketchy for the intended application. Are there any alternatives to this process? Any and all input is appreciated, I know that this site has some high quality input (at times
).
Yea, they its way in the back past cyl No. 6. I was looking online for a heli coil set, and holy crap they're expensive. Like $120 for a full set. I guess if I can find the specific one that I need I should be able to do it for cheaper, but then I was searching the Grainger online catalog and the inserts are like ~$20.00!! What the hell?!
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
Yea, they its way in the back past cyl No. 6. I was looking online for a heli coil set, and holy crap they're expensive. Like $120 for a full set. I guess if I can find the specific one that I need I should be able to do it for cheaper, but then I was searching the Grainger online catalog and the inserts are like ~$20.00!! What the hell?!
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol

Yea, I was also looking at Amazon and I think Sears, but they were expensive also lol. I think I'll just try to tap it a size larger, unless I can find a decently priced Helicoil set...
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http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=helicoil
will this work for him?? because i have the same problem
will this work for him?? because i have the same problem
helicoils suck and they arent that strong.
ive had a stripped valve cover bolt hole on my head from the previous
owner installing an incorrect bolt and i went with a time sert
example:

you have to drill out a large hole (to match OD of time sert) and then tap the hole,
install the time sert (mine had a notch for a screw driver,) and then youre good.
i just borrowed oreillys tap/die thread repair kit (free.)
whichever way you go, make sure you use red thread locker. on the helicoil/time sert
yes m10 means 10mm.
ive had a stripped valve cover bolt hole on my head from the previous
owner installing an incorrect bolt and i went with a time sert
example:

you have to drill out a large hole (to match OD of time sert) and then tap the hole,
install the time sert (mine had a notch for a screw driver,) and then youre good.
i just borrowed oreillys tap/die thread repair kit (free.)
whichever way you go, make sure you use red thread locker. on the helicoil/time sert
yes m10 means 10mm.
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