hey guys. posted the other day about my low clutch but now onto the next issue.

The ole girl is running rich. band is reading 12.5-15 driving normally not usually building over 8lbs before shift. I have an AEM standalone in the car. I'm unsure what tune is on the standalone, could be a base tune or the previous owner could have attempted to tune a little himself and didnt know what he was doing.

more to the point. Is there someone i can send the data logs too and possibly get a flash in tune?

components are as follows,

2jzge na-t. eagle crank, rods, pistons, Aem standalone (as mentioned), Garret T70mm 69 A/R on a custom Precision hotside. Boost logic 2.5 f-mic piping, Boost Logic ceramic coasted turbo manifold. Boost Logic 3" downpipe. Precision oversized 4" intercooler. TIAL 40mm wastegate set at 12psi. Turbonetics heat blanket. Feed lines are Erles steel braided oversized lower and standard upper for maximum drain and feed. HKS Super Sequential blow off valve. All piping connectors are TurboSmart.

Spark: Stock coils with NGK 2 step colder plugs and custom igniter. Running 10mm Nology Hot wires from a MK4 Supra

Fuel: Aeromotive AN6 kit. Walboro 255 fel pump. 440cc injectors. 17 gallon fuel cell with spots for 2 fuel pumps.

Cooling/Oil: OBX-R oil catch can. CX-Racing Oversized polished radiator form a MK4 Supra. Stock clutch fan.

just a few to name many.

 

boost is set low until i can get the tuning figured out. not gonna to risk detonation.

 

it doesn't sound like its that far off, you should get it tuned, standalones require alot of tuning to get it perfect.
what helps alot on the standalones is getting a wide band o2 sensor and turning on o2 feedback.

 

yeah like i said theres an aem standalone already in the car along with the aem wideband.

Did some more fiddling with it last night. actually got into it a good bit with the throttle. soon as it spools up over 8 lbs the band jumps anywhere between 15-18 and it bogs until about 6k then all hell breaks loose (along with the tires). that sudden power surge is not good but when it hits of course the fuel leans out down to 10.5.

Really it looks like the curve just needs corrected but still its an issue.

 

10.00 = mad rich
16.00 = mad lean

regular driving should be 14-15 AFR, by the time you cross a few psi of boost 2-4 psi, and you should have richened up the mixture by dropping down to at least 12 AFR, and mid 11's with higher amounts of boost is ideal.

the boost part should be carefully tuned, and usually is a little on the rich side with o2 feedback disabled above 2 psi.

If you see a number above 12 and you are in good boost, you should let off immediately, you can detonate, or evenually if you do enough pulls there will be too much heat and you will warp the head, and then the block/pistons are next to go. If you had an EGT gauge it would be off the charts after a few pulls at 16-17 afr.

the stock timing map in the 1101 cal file is fine, but the fuel curve needs to be adjusted for the car.
It is too difficult to explain or teach over a forum, you will need to do some major research on AFR's and experiment with the car or find a tuner.
If someone has messed with the map that badly, you may want to start over from the basemap, look up the instructions online for adjusting it to your map sensor, and scale for injectors, and go from there.

 

Please, please stop "Fiddling" with a Standalone.

Learn. Don't touch the timing, and for god sake stop trying to drive out of the problem at 18.0:1 at 3k rpm wide sweeps right after peak torque.

You want it to run well, or blow it up?

 

Lol that was funny to read. If ur running 15-16 afr's in boost your basically praying ur engine would blow up. I hope you haven't been doing pulls lately....

 

Lol that was funny to read. If ur running 15-16 afr's in boost your basically praying ur engine would blow up. I hope you haven't been doing pulls lately....

 

Ok by "fiddling" with it I meant driving it more to get a more accurate read on what it does and when. But Its funny that someone jumps down my throat anyways

That's why I came here, I have fickle experience with standalones and surely someone could point me in the proper direction. So far the only guys that have contacted me live 6+ hrs away

 

Also thanks for the correction on lean/rich.

 

well maybe you should post a question before you start messing with stuff you dont knw about it? your engine will destroy itself if you keep running those afrs. take your car to a tuner and get it tuned right

 

well no **** man why do you think i posted this in the first place?

 

I know you are a LONG way away, but an efi university class is a GREAT idea for you if you are going to tune for yourself. Seems like you have the tools (except for the dyno!) anyway, there are classes all over. If you want to take a trip out here to Cali, We are going to have a class at our shop in January. (I know you will fix it before then or have it tuned, but always a good idea for an EFI 101 tuning class

 

with 440 injectors you will be out of injector at about 400 horsepower. I know it goes lean and then rich. Do you have done any data logging? You have done a great job on the internals and the peripherals. Not to excited about the injector size. Here is an injector calculator. It will help with your desired HP level and getting the right injectors. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/InjectorSizeCalc.html

Hope this helps and doesn't muddy up the water for you

 

What you really need to do is join AEM forums.

Few people here could help you with the AEM box, and those who could help you probably paid someone.

Here's a few links for you.

http://bit.ly/WLsoRX

http://bit.ly/WLsysH