Windshield replacement
10-23-12, 12:30 AM
#16
I'm glad I found this thread. I need to replace my windshield this coming week. I'm going with the seemingly unanimous recommenddation to use PGW glass.
Questions: what replacement trim is specifically needed to make this like factory again? I have a replacement rearview mirror with a little black plastic spacer. I've found the main windshield weatherstrip and the "windshield retainer" but no direct listing for the metal trim with black coating on the outside. Is the latter what is recommended that I replace?
UPDATE: I have ordered the factory upper, left, and right windshield trim as well as the rubber seal that goes under the window. From there I'll be having a shop install new PGW glass as people have recommended. The installer had universal fit under-glass rubber but I wasn't sure about that.
Questions: what replacement trim is specifically needed to make this like factory again? I have a replacement rearview mirror with a little black plastic spacer. I've found the main windshield weatherstrip and the "windshield retainer" but no direct listing for the metal trim with black coating on the outside. Is the latter what is recommended that I replace?
UPDATE: I have ordered the factory upper, left, and right windshield trim as well as the rubber seal that goes under the window. From there I'll be having a shop install new PGW glass as people have recommended. The installer had universal fit under-glass rubber but I wasn't sure about that.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-24-12 at 01:37 AM.
10-29-12, 11:55 PM
#18
Just thought I'd add some important info here after my windshield repacement experience today:
I used PGW (formerly PPG) glass. I also ordered the outer side mouldings, upper outer moulding, and factory rubber seal that goes under the glass.
Part numbers for those are:
75531-24050 "Upper Moulding WI"
75533-24050 "RH, Outer Moulding"
75534-24050 "LH, Outer Moulding"
04562-12010 "Dam Kit, Windshield"
An important thing I wish I'd known about is an additional piece of upper trim that goes onto the outer metal surface of the roof just behind the main upper moulding. My old one was still fine on providing spring tension but cosmetically it would have been nice to replace but this wasn't going to happen when my old windshield was already removed. It's a minor cosmetic annoyance compared to seeing fresh new seals around the glass.
More importantly, though, are the rearview mirror mounting parts. The previous owner had taken the liberty of gluing mine into place on the inside foot of the original rearview mirror, rendering them and the mirror assembly permanently unusable. My guess is that impatience lead to a stupid quick fix.
I had a spare replacement mirror from a 1997 SC anyway but I needed to order the following to mount parts to put the rearview onto the new windshield:
87817-24010 (thick metal piece)
87808-24010 x2 (each is a ball bearing in surrounding plastic caddy; must have two)
87825-24010 (should be a retaining spring)
These parts cross-reference to a handful of cars:
1992-2000 SC300/400
1993-1998 Supra
Some years of the ES(300?)
And lastly, but funnily enough... the LF-A. Yes, the LF-A uses the same style windshield mount for its rearview as our cars. Cost for all necessary bits should be about $16 total.
Putting this bit in is easier with the glass OUT of the car and it's tricky. Keep in mind how easy it is to crack a windshield from the inside. I am leaving this to the installation shop to put in for me. It may look simple but unless you've had experience with this and know what you're doing, leave it to a professional. It's harder to get in safely and correctly once the windshield is in the car and difficult enough when it's out of the car.
The rearview mirror itself should be easy, although even my brand new factory Torx screw has a bit of Loctite on the end, making future removal a bit of a chore. I'm not sure if it's advisable to strip it off or if there is a very good reason for the factory dab of Loctite on the mirror screw. Edit: I opted to use the spare factory Torx-T30 screw that came with my junkyard mirror because it wasn't tipped in fresh Loctite.
That factory mirror screw, however, is:
90148-60018 "Screw, Hex LOBULA"
I used PGW (formerly PPG) glass. I also ordered the outer side mouldings, upper outer moulding, and factory rubber seal that goes under the glass.
Part numbers for those are:
75531-24050 "Upper Moulding WI"
75533-24050 "RH, Outer Moulding"
75534-24050 "LH, Outer Moulding"
04562-12010 "Dam Kit, Windshield"
An important thing I wish I'd known about is an additional piece of upper trim that goes onto the outer metal surface of the roof just behind the main upper moulding. My old one was still fine on providing spring tension but cosmetically it would have been nice to replace but this wasn't going to happen when my old windshield was already removed. It's a minor cosmetic annoyance compared to seeing fresh new seals around the glass.
More importantly, though, are the rearview mirror mounting parts. The previous owner had taken the liberty of gluing mine into place on the inside foot of the original rearview mirror, rendering them and the mirror assembly permanently unusable. My guess is that impatience lead to a stupid quick fix.
I had a spare replacement mirror from a 1997 SC anyway but I needed to order the following to mount parts to put the rearview onto the new windshield:
87817-24010 (thick metal piece)
87808-24010 x2 (each is a ball bearing in surrounding plastic caddy; must have two)
87825-24010 (should be a retaining spring)
These parts cross-reference to a handful of cars:
1992-2000 SC300/400
1993-1998 Supra
Some years of the ES(300?)
And lastly, but funnily enough... the LF-A. Yes, the LF-A uses the same style windshield mount for its rearview as our cars. Cost for all necessary bits should be about $16 total.
Putting this bit in is easier with the glass OUT of the car and it's tricky. Keep in mind how easy it is to crack a windshield from the inside. I am leaving this to the installation shop to put in for me. It may look simple but unless you've had experience with this and know what you're doing, leave it to a professional. It's harder to get in safely and correctly once the windshield is in the car and difficult enough when it's out of the car.
The rearview mirror itself should be easy, although even my brand new factory Torx screw has a bit of Loctite on the end, making future removal a bit of a chore. I'm not sure if it's advisable to strip it off or if there is a very good reason for the factory dab of Loctite on the mirror screw. Edit: I opted to use the spare factory Torx-T30 screw that came with my junkyard mirror because it wasn't tipped in fresh Loctite.
That factory mirror screw, however, is:
90148-60018 "Screw, Hex LOBULA"
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-30-12 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Edited with part numbers
I think my ins company got hosed from safelite.
08-21-20, 08:06 AM
#25
I know this thread is old and dead but it helped me find the windshield moldings I wanted to replace when replacing my windshield. Im pretty sure the part number KahnBB6 is talking about with the piece of upper trim that goes on the outer metal surface behind the main upper molding is 75548-24070 and its a long fastener molding thing. Ive ordered everything and if I dont reply to this comment then it is the correct last trim piece
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