Ok so a little history...spun a rod bearing and siezed the motor...motor is rebulit with the block punched out .020, new rods, pistons, bearings, freshly machined head...you get the idea. Motor is still a bit shy of the 500 mile break in. Today I was idling in the drive through line at the bank and noticed the red oil light flickering. I kept watching it and it stopped. I turnrd off the car and checked the oil, which was full and didnt even look dirty. Up to that point the car has been feeling and driving great, and feels just fine now. After I started the car back up I the oil light didnt come back on, and hasnt been on since this morning when it was flickering.

The car has never done this before...could it have something to do with the break in oil still being in the car? I havent hit 500 miles on the motor and changed it. Is this a sign of a bad sensor? Oil pump dying?

 

Are you low on oil? Is your car making noise? If so, get an oil pressure test. Or it can be a bad oil switch.

 

I would hook up a gauge to the sender and make sure you have good oil pressure before you keep driving it. More then likely the switch was just being stupid. But then again it is a contact switch and they usually dont go bad.

 

you did a rebuild but didnt change the oil pump?

 

Thats what i was thinking also.

 

Or the engine was not rebuilt good. Theres about a 1000 things that could go wrong.

 

oil was full, no noises...the oil pump in the car is the old one. I have a new aisin pump that I need to put in/have put in

 

Are you serious man. Sigh... You never use a old oil pump man.

 

well. time to find someone to put the new one in next week

 

Thats going to be quite the procedure inside of a car bro... It is alot better and easier and more professional to do it outside of the car on a stand.

But just tap into the oil pressure sender, and see what your pressure is, if its good you are fine. My old hyundai used to do it and it had pressure of 75 psi at cold start and around 15-20 psi at idle which is excellent. The dummy light just wasnt very accurate.

 

Not a good idea to use the old pump especially after your engine knocked. Could have probably contaminated the rebuilt block

 

I'll see how the pressure is first...but wouldn't swapping the oil pump involve the same work of getting to the rear main seal?

 

Idk how the 2jz is setup but usually its near the front end of the motor by the timing belt, as most engines use the timing belt to run it. But idk about the 2jz some engines have a gear system.

 

timing belt spins gear which spins oil pump is how it is set up I believe

 

but wouldnt the swap be possible without pulling the motor?