converting 97 tails to 92?
12-09-11, 07:16 AM
#32
I know each of us has our individual tastes, and that is good. Personally, I find both the 92-94, and the 95-96 tails to look dated. I do like the custom two- tone JDM 92-94 tails the best, but I believe those are totally uavailable. So, the only tails I like are the 97-2000 tails, modified to red out the amber section, and the chrome blacked out. Zach's murdered out set are awesome, as well as Scott's custom hybrid set. I also liked Black97SC300's 97 tails that he modded...I think the 97 modified tastefully gives the most up to date look...
Ryan
Ryan
Last edited by SC400TT; 12-09-11 at 11:49 PM.
01-30-13, 06:53 PM
#39
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Details of using '95 - '97 SC300 aftermarket taillamps on '92 - '94 models. In '95 the electrical design of the taillamps was changed to reduce the number of bulbs. Mechanically all model years are identical. The only issue with using later model parts on the earlier vehicles is the "hyperblink", i.e. because of the lower current draw from '95 - '97 taillamps when they are used on earlier models the turn signal doesn't flash but just rapidly pulses dim to bright. This happens because the ECU thinks a bulb is burned out and is signaling the driver. A very simply modification enables the newer taillamps to operate correctly when installed on the earlier models.
The electrical modification required is to put a load resistor in parallel with the turn signal filament, i.e. between the positive and negative wires to that lamp. These are available as a kit on eBay.
Here is a procedure for replacing early taillamps with later models:
1. Remove rear trunk liner (suggest purchasing a auto trim removal tool, which is similar to a screwdriver with a wide forked blade and an angle at the end).
2. Disconnect the rod that connects the lock with the latch by pressing down on the plastic retainer and pulling the rod out of the hole.
3. Remove the two bolts that mount the lock and pull the lock out of the hole.
4. Disconnect both taillamp electrical connectors.
5. Remove the nuts and washers mounting the taillamps (four per unit, two at each end).
6. Protect the bumper paint from damage by using painter's tape and a clean cloth, etc. below the taillamps.
7. Remove the taillamps, it may be necessary to tap on the studs with a plastic mallet.
8. Create a holding surface level with the bottom of the body opening (I used a small stool and a cardboard box with some foam on it.
9. Place the new taillamp assembly face down on the temporary support.
10. Insert the required bulbs into the taillamp.
11. Feed the electrical connector through the body opening and insert the sealing grommet.
12. Connect the taillamp plug to the connector.
13. Turn on the ignition and confirm that all functions (marker, running, brake, turn and backup) are working, expect to see the hyperblink when testing the turn signal.
14. Turn off the ignition,
15. The load resistors have very stiff leads sticking straight out from the ends. These will need to be bent to avoid interference with the car body. Use the smooth portion of a pair of needle nosed pliers and grip the lead next to the resistor body. Use another pair of pliers to bend the leads to the side and up (toward the top of the resistor). If you try to bend the leads without using two pliers there is a good chance that you will break the ceramic end seals on the resistor.
16. Referring to the photo below place the load resistor where shown and scribe the location of the mounting holes. Remove the resistor and center punch at the center of the holes.
17. Use a 0.155 diameter drill bit and drill through the sheet metal where center punched.
18. Use the same bit to slightly enlarge the mounting holes in the resistor mounting tabs.
19. I suggest placing a short length of heat shrink tubing over the bends in the resistor leads to decrease the chance that a short might occur between the lead and the car body.
20. Use M4 X 10 screws with a flat washer and hex nut on the inside to mount the resistor. To improve heat dissipation I suggest smearing a coat of bulb grease on the bottom of the resistor before mounting. Use a drop of Blue Loctite on the screw threads before screwing on the nuts.
20. Using the crimp on connectors supplied in the load resistor kit connect one resistor lead to the positive wire and the other lead to the black wire going to the turn signal lamp.
21. Suggest turning on the ignition again and retesting the taillamp. The turn signal should now blink on and off.
22. Turn off the ignition.
23. Lift the taillamp assembly and mount to the body, make sure the wires are tucked behind the assembly. Use a drop of Blue Loctite on the screw treads when attaching the taillamps. Remove any tape on the edge of the opening so that it won't be trapped when the assembly is inserted.
24. Repeat for the other side and remount the lock.
25. Replace the interior trim panel.
Images below:
A. '94 OEM taillamp top, '95 - '97 aftermarket taillamp bottom.
B. Detail of mounted load resistor.
C. Installed taillamp.
The electrical modification required is to put a load resistor in parallel with the turn signal filament, i.e. between the positive and negative wires to that lamp. These are available as a kit on eBay.
Here is a procedure for replacing early taillamps with later models:
1. Remove rear trunk liner (suggest purchasing a auto trim removal tool, which is similar to a screwdriver with a wide forked blade and an angle at the end).
2. Disconnect the rod that connects the lock with the latch by pressing down on the plastic retainer and pulling the rod out of the hole.
3. Remove the two bolts that mount the lock and pull the lock out of the hole.
4. Disconnect both taillamp electrical connectors.
5. Remove the nuts and washers mounting the taillamps (four per unit, two at each end).
6. Protect the bumper paint from damage by using painter's tape and a clean cloth, etc. below the taillamps.
7. Remove the taillamps, it may be necessary to tap on the studs with a plastic mallet.
8. Create a holding surface level with the bottom of the body opening (I used a small stool and a cardboard box with some foam on it.
9. Place the new taillamp assembly face down on the temporary support.
10. Insert the required bulbs into the taillamp.
11. Feed the electrical connector through the body opening and insert the sealing grommet.
12. Connect the taillamp plug to the connector.
13. Turn on the ignition and confirm that all functions (marker, running, brake, turn and backup) are working, expect to see the hyperblink when testing the turn signal.
14. Turn off the ignition,
15. The load resistors have very stiff leads sticking straight out from the ends. These will need to be bent to avoid interference with the car body. Use the smooth portion of a pair of needle nosed pliers and grip the lead next to the resistor body. Use another pair of pliers to bend the leads to the side and up (toward the top of the resistor). If you try to bend the leads without using two pliers there is a good chance that you will break the ceramic end seals on the resistor.
16. Referring to the photo below place the load resistor where shown and scribe the location of the mounting holes. Remove the resistor and center punch at the center of the holes.
17. Use a 0.155 diameter drill bit and drill through the sheet metal where center punched.
18. Use the same bit to slightly enlarge the mounting holes in the resistor mounting tabs.
19. I suggest placing a short length of heat shrink tubing over the bends in the resistor leads to decrease the chance that a short might occur between the lead and the car body.
20. Use M4 X 10 screws with a flat washer and hex nut on the inside to mount the resistor. To improve heat dissipation I suggest smearing a coat of bulb grease on the bottom of the resistor before mounting. Use a drop of Blue Loctite on the screw threads before screwing on the nuts.
20. Using the crimp on connectors supplied in the load resistor kit connect one resistor lead to the positive wire and the other lead to the black wire going to the turn signal lamp.
21. Suggest turning on the ignition again and retesting the taillamp. The turn signal should now blink on and off.
22. Turn off the ignition.
23. Lift the taillamp assembly and mount to the body, make sure the wires are tucked behind the assembly. Use a drop of Blue Loctite on the screw treads when attaching the taillamps. Remove any tape on the edge of the opening so that it won't be trapped when the assembly is inserted.
24. Repeat for the other side and remount the lock.
25. Replace the interior trim panel.
Images below:
A. '94 OEM taillamp top, '95 - '97 aftermarket taillamp bottom.
B. Detail of mounted load resistor.
C. Installed taillamp.
Last edited by davmar; 01-31-13 at 11:06 AM.
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02-01-13, 07:18 AM
#43
I went through all three stock tail lights and I think 97+ are what's up! The things I did like from the 92-94's are the huge turn signal lamp and how the tail lights were on; it made the car look like a lazy kid haha.
BUT 95's were pretty B.A because it made the car looked pissed off when the tail lights are on lol
BUT 95's were pretty B.A because it made the car looked pissed off when the tail lights are on lol
05-20-13, 09:29 PM
#44
Even though the title is a bit, off. I believe this is where the beyond stock tail light development is going. Here is what I have so far, other than the all red 92-94 styled ones.
blacked out 97-00 tails. IGNORE THE MAXIMA
My revised "hyper-95-96's" (left) I need to find a way to get rid of that pee yellow reverse light color. I am open to ideas. It's a makeup of the 1995-1996 lens over the 97+ reflectors (blacked out red trim and chrome).
blacked out 97-00 tails. IGNORE THE MAXIMA
My revised "hyper-95-96's" (left) I need to find a way to get rid of that pee yellow reverse light color. I am open to ideas. It's a makeup of the 1995-1996 lens over the 97+ reflectors (blacked out red trim and chrome).
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