Building my setup, and I've noticed everyone uses a FFIM for higher HP - which is fine because I could clean up the engine bay a little bit BUT I was wondering if it retains cruise or IAC, etc function?

 

iacv depends if you have the flange welded on the ffim, cruise control i doubt it but you can make anything work with custom parts, everything else is still pretty straight forward. on the good side you will be able to change your plugs easier, which will need to be done more often once you go boost.

 

I can have the throttle body out now in about five minutes so changing plugs isn't really a plus for me (that's with hand tools, I can't imagine how fast I could get it out with air tools).

I was debating on price and fitment, is the FFIM going to net anymore power over the regular UIM - it seems design wise that the GE manifold might net better torque down low.

 

OEM intake makes more torque, but people say the FFIM makes more hp.
To retain IACV you just weld flange to bottom using 7mgte or 2jzgte IACV. you could also use the stock throttle body, but no one really does that.
check out beechperformance for flanges.
To keep cruise you need a throttle body with a spot for the second cable (stock, TT, LS400, and even some billet throttle bodies with 2 wheels)
Its probably easier to install a 2jzgte cruise control unit instead of relocating the GE one as the cable will be closer to the right length and bolt up.

 

i use a ffim . i use tt iacv mounted to the underside and works almost like stock . most of the time going ffim you will use either aftermarket tb or a q45 tb which means stock ecu will have trouble with controlling it and if you are not using a toyota tps you can forget it and standalone is the only way and at that point cruise control is out of the question.

when alpha retuned me exactly 1 yr ago , he said to me , the addition of my ported ffim and q45 tb delivered all the extra air my cams were asking for and essentially stated i made a very efficient setup

 

I've decided on this particular build that max hp isn't the goal. I'm basically turning it into a "fun" streetable car that makes a bit more hp than stock, but the curve is where I'm most interested in so that when I'm putt putting around I don't have to wait until I get on the interstate to have any fun.

So, with the FFIM I would sacrifice the lower end power trading off for the top end. I thought about using the GTE cruise cable and just cutting and welding on an extension to match the throttle body. I would use the GTE to retain the TPS.

If I did the FFIM. It would make my air/water setup a little bit more to plumb in but if the added air is really that much better It might be worth it.

 

best bet is get ffim flanged for q45 tb .. get the greddy tps adapter ( which is what i use) and mount ge tps as it works in same direction of q45 tb.. i lost zero low end however did lose alittle torque mid to top although some of the loss was due to my tuner backing some torque out because of being on pump gas .. i make about 400ft lbs by around 4300 then increases with horsepower to around my peak of 460 ish but unlike some other dyno plots where torque starts falling off around 6500 , mine still goes flat from there right to 8k redline ..

 

I meant GE throttle body, use a block off plate and weld a flange for the GTE IAC. Utilize the GTE cruise cable, and then weld in the GE cable mid-way to keep the current GE throttle body.

I just don't know if it's worth the added headache. I love the low end and mid-range power feeling, not into the roller coaster feeling.

 

you can wire a q45 tps to work with the factory ecu. you don't need a standalone anymore.
here is the wiring for a 7mgte, but the tps is the same.
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/sh...g-Instructions

If you are using the GE throttle body, you dont need to install a GTE IAC, the stock GE one had it built in and it works fine. the throttle body is a little small though if you want to run large piping with a FFIM in the future.
The q45 and GTE TB do not have idle valves built in. I think the mustang 5.0 TB does have it built in.

for a fun streetable car without worrying about aesthetics at all, you cannot beat the design of the stock intake manifold, it gives you extra torque that effectively is helping you spool up faster. you get higher intake temps is the only negative, but a balance can be found by deleting the TB coolant lines, wrapping the charge pipe above the turbo, and using a turbo blanket. I actually cut the flange off my old intake and welded on a flange for using a ls400 throttle body and made the whole thing shorter, so the pipe doesnt sit on the turbo. Never tested it out, but I have seen it on a few is300's and its the same principle. you have to mount a TT IACV though cause the ls400 doesnt have it built in either.

I decided in the end to go FFIM though just to clean it all up. I will say after the install I noticed I was definitely running richer in boost, and since I have o2 feedback disabled in boost, I can only conclude I am actually flowing less air than the stock intake manifold at least on the lower end. So basically you need to turn the boost up high to see the FFIM outperforming the stock intake manifold.
realistically the little bit of power you loose can be compensated with a larger turbo or a quick spool valve, and you wont have to worry about having a bottleneck at the manifold ever again with 3" piping.

 

Keep it simple, just use the stock intake until you reach the point of wanting more. I did the opposite and went FFIM before I even turboed it. Now that its installed and the kinks are worked out i'll never look back but it was a pain in the *** and expensive!

 

got any recommendations for aftermarket throttle body for ffim? are ebay ones okay?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=...39&Make=Toyota

 

I thought I read somewhere that the FFIM wasn't really needed until around 7-8XX WHP where the stock IM wheezes out.

I think for now, I'll be sticking with the stocker, and modifying it a bit. Deleting the EGR for sure, but what about the active throttle butterfly in there - does it hurt or help to leave it active? I'm probably going to have everything polished at least, ports wise I don't see helping out matching wise.

 

Leave the active butterfly valve. This valve is what allows the low end torque as it remains shut until higher rpm when more flow is needed.