Guys, thanks for taking the time to look at this. First off, you should know that I am pretty good when it comes to working on Toyota products. I have owned several Supras, including a current project of a 89 7MGTE turbo motor into a completely restored 84 Supra. Also own a fully restored 70 Cuda, as well as own and fly an Experimental Long-EZ aircraft.

Here is what I've got going on? Recently picked up a non-running 1995 Lexus SC, 219k miles. The story I got when purchased, was that while driving, the car overheated and shut down. Owner was unable to get it restarted, had it towed to a mechanic who basically just told him that you likely need a new motor to the tune of $3k. Owner decided to sell instead.

When I picked up the car: no fan shroud (probably why it overheated), no battery (stingey seller kept)? I towed the car back to my hangar to get started on seeing if I could get the car running?? First off, no water in the oil. The oil is clean, no froth. Radiator was low, but not empty. I changed the plugs (couldn't believe, but think they were the origional plugs!! Warn to the nub, with some oil on them). I have great spark to the cap, and to the plugs. I have jumped the fuel pump to verify operation, sounds great at the rail. I did find a week Atl relay (not broken yet, but showing signs that maybe was an issue), replaced relay. Also checked all EFI fuses, and all seem good. Even rotated a few around just to make sure? The car turns over fine, but sounds like maybe low compression (which would explain some of the oil found on the plugs)? I have tried the door / key method in hopes that maybe the anti-theft just needed to be reset? No luck there either...

Knowing Toyota motors as well as I do, I figure the motor didn't get too hurt? Just figure it might be something stupid that I'm overlooking? Please let me know what my next plan of attack might be. Thanks in advance, Dave.

 

Forgot to mention, timing belt is intact, cam gear marks as well as crank all line up when #1 is at TDC.

 

Any check engine light? Test crank and cam position sensors. My guess is crank sensor if everything else is in tune. Compression testthat bad boy immediately.

 

No CEL's at the moment, but will double check later this week when I do a compression test. Haven't picked up a manual yet. Help with testing crank and cam position sensors?

 

You can try cranking it and spraying quick start into the throttle body. If it attempts to start then you know your injectors aren't firing, or they are not getting enough pressure. So it could then be your fuel pressure regulator or computer.

 

Connected the jumper wire on the OBD1 today. CEL just did a steady flashing, appx 1 second apart. Other threads say that means "all good", no codes stored? I have also read on here that the cam and crank sensors are built into the distributor. With no codes showing, can I assume that they are OK? I was hoping to pick up a used distributer and hope that is solves my no-start.

 

Did the distributor solve the problem?

 

No....was a blown headgasket. Ended up changing out the motor for a 60k mile unit that cost me under $700.

 

I like how majority of the people explain their mechanical background about how they built etc etc to ask a question.

Anyways car overheated, obviously blew a headgasket
If there is no fan shroud the car still runs fine, it won't over heat without it.

 

sc300jz - Do I understand correctly that In your experience a stocker is fine to run without the fan shroud? The mechanic broke the top off mine to do the timing belt (first and last time someone else worked on my car) and glued it back together. Naturally, it has come apart several times. I appear to have misplaced it since the last time I stuffed it in the trunk. I don't want to spend $100 at the wreckers to replace it if it really is not required.

 

Unless you sit with the car idle for 30 minutes in the death valley/phoenix summer heat you'll be fine