sc400 Tuning question
I personally think that the OEM ecu is underated although I'm on a standalone now (and love it). I used it for along time and allot of drag runs with the MAFTPro (for sale
).
On obd1 sc's the vf1 and vf2 readings are one key to tuning.
With a proper scantool you can see when the ecu is in open loop or closed loop.
I have to agree that the ecu is not changing the AFR in open loop / WOT situations. I also have to question that it was doing this WITHOUT o2 sensors. The sensors are the only way the ecu has any clue whats really going on.
I would highly reccomend the Adaptronic ecu for any 1uz as it is proven to work well and very easy to setup and tune. Not to mention the excellent customer service!
KC
). On obd1 sc's the vf1 and vf2 readings are one key to tuning.
With a proper scantool you can see when the ecu is in open loop or closed loop.
I have to agree that the ecu is not changing the AFR in open loop / WOT situations. I also have to question that it was doing this WITHOUT o2 sensors. The sensors are the only way the ecu has any clue whats really going on.
I would highly reccomend the Adaptronic ecu for any 1uz as it is proven to work well and very easy to setup and tune. Not to mention the excellent customer service!
KC
I'm not really sure either, I was on my.is a long time ago, and they were talking about tuning without the o2 sensors. And that's how they got the ecu to stop making adjustments during both STFT and LTFT. I tried that, and that's when I discovered that no matter my settings on the SAFC eventually it would change under similar conditions.
I got so fed up with, I just went back to a mechanical (read: FMU) fuel setup. Before I lost the MKIII, that was the only way that I could keep it in the 12:1 range. However I had to change the disc out to a 2:1 unit lol.
I got so fed up with, I just went back to a mechanical (read: FMU) fuel setup. Before I lost the MKIII, that was the only way that I could keep it in the 12:1 range. However I had to change the disc out to a 2:1 unit lol.
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Well guys, I think I found the issue with my WOT problem on the supra. I went back and looked through all of my stuff (that was taken off the supra), and guess what I found.
The AFM had a crack in it. I capped both ends of the pipe and pressurized it, and it was leaking. Now here's the problem, if the AFM itself was leaking air, how much of it was being read? It was cracked in the front, pretty bad, so I guess that's why i was having an issue with different AFR's even though I was running the same boost levels.
The only problem is this, I have the AFM blow through, so it was virtually in the same location as it would have been stock, but if it was leaking enough, then why was boost pressure consistent?
The AFM had a crack in it. I capped both ends of the pipe and pressurized it, and it was leaking. Now here's the problem, if the AFM itself was leaking air, how much of it was being read? It was cracked in the front, pretty bad, so I guess that's why i was having an issue with different AFR's even though I was running the same boost levels.
The only problem is this, I have the AFM blow through, so it was virtually in the same location as it would have been stock, but if it was leaking enough, then why was boost pressure consistent?
Well guys, I think I found the issue with my WOT problem on the supra. I went back and looked through all of my stuff (that was taken off the supra), and guess what I found.
The AFM had a crack in it. I capped both ends of the pipe and pressurized it, and it was leaking. Now here's the problem, if the AFM itself was leaking air, how much of it was being read? It was cracked in the front, pretty bad, so I guess that's why i was having an issue with different AFR's even though I was running the same boost levels.
The only problem is this, I have the AFM blow through, so it was virtually in the same location as it would have been stock, but if it was leaking enough, then why was boost pressure consistent?
The AFM had a crack in it. I capped both ends of the pipe and pressurized it, and it was leaking. Now here's the problem, if the AFM itself was leaking air, how much of it was being read? It was cracked in the front, pretty bad, so I guess that's why i was having an issue with different AFR's even though I was running the same boost levels.
The only problem is this, I have the AFM blow through, so it was virtually in the same location as it would have been stock, but if it was leaking enough, then why was boost pressure consistent?
The hole in which boost / air can leak is quite small. Probably enough to throw the reading WAY out but not enough to lower boost pressure much. That's my theory anyway.
KC
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