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Half Ass Trans Job

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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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Default Half *** Trans Job

My transmission fluid is well overdue for a change. It's very, very dirty. Shifting is a little rough. I could get a the right amount of trans fluid for about 20 bucks and pull the plug, then just refill it. But those pros do some sort of flush that's apparently of importance, and I'm well aware that filter goes bad eventually but installation for the filter is expensive. I'm sure I'd be much better off just draining and changing the fluid as simple as that and seeing how much that helps all for 20 bucks rather than saving up for a month and driving with the bad fluid that entire time until I can have the full job done. I'd rather take an extra week or two on top of that to get the pro job done in order to at least get some fresh fluid in there in the mean time. Any thoughts on this?
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:23 PM
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The filter and pan gasket combo is only $17 from autozone, and it's really simple to change
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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That's awesome! Would I also need some kind of moisture/heat resistant liquid drying adhesive to go with the gasket? And how can you tell if you need a flush?
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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The problem is some SC has sealant or gasket. I have a sealant, so the gasket wouldn't work for me. just FYI.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:33 PM
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usually if u buy the filter.. (strainer) it will come with a gasket. If not then get the liquid paste gasket makers.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Is it not wise or possible to use a gasket as well as a sealant in unison? Or if it originally had a sealant, it might be harder to remove the pan than compared to just unscrewing it, it sounds like removing one with sealant on it would require some type of dissolving chemical. Is this true?
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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Okay, sounds easy enough. I suppose I'll have to drain most with the drain plug so it doesn't splash out like a broken pool when I remove the pan, then wipe down and clean all the surfaces for the gasket so there's good contact, clean the pan, change the filter, slap the pan back on, then pour in the new good stuff. All good advice friends!
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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SC300 or 400? If 400 then you can use ONLY use Toyota typr t-iv fluid and absolutly nothing else!!
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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400. Good save, friend! That could have been a close one. Those Autozone guys are cool, but they're salesmen, not mechanics. Okay, I will definitely make sure I get Toyota typer t-iv ONLY!
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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I think that goes same with 300 too, but I used Toyota tranny fluid to keep it safe.

@Gate, With the sealant after you unscrew all the bolts, just take a flat head and pry it out. Careful not to bend the pan too or you can just buy a new pan.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by horent135
I think that goes same with 300 too, but I used Toyota tranny fluid to keep it safe.

@Gate, With the sealant after you unscrew all the bolts, just take a flat head and pry it out. Careful not to bend the pan too or you can just buy a new pan.
Yes you should use the Totota type t-iv in both 300 and 400 which is a step a lot of forum members skip or cheap out on since the bottle of fluid at the local parts store says it can be used which is very un true!
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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Yeah, Damn those salesmen. I understand people got to make a living, but at the expense of the unwary? Misleading them into traps that expensive to crawl out of (and you will be crawling by the time you get out)? That's not right.

Lucky for me I've got you guys!
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