Rear Deck has been cut!!!
Rear Deck has been cut!!!
Well, cut the back deck out this weekend. Turned out really good. Couple of tight spots with the nibbler, but everything went great. Relocated all the wiring off the deck lid into the holes adjacent to the rear seat. Don't know why Lexus didn't do this in the first place. Looks like sealed enclosure is out of the question. Just not enough freaking depth without serious modification. Going to install (2) JL audio 10IB4 in the back deck now. These two ran in parallel will give me the 4 ohm load I'm looking for on my JL 500/5. I am taking pics and will post. Ordered another factory sub grill today, as I'm going to make it look as factory as possible. Will keep updating.
Shane
Shane
Driver
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I had a similar idea in mind for the enclosure but I'm probably only going to take out the firewall. I've heard taking more can affect the frame’s integrity. I know a guy who took out the entire back dash in his Nissan and the rear window collapsed in!! Do you have any pics of how it’s coming along? I’m setting up 2 Alpine Type-R’s with around 450rms on each but I’m still worried the factory 10” will sound better because it’s in the cabin. I really want to hear how it turns out for you. Good luck! 
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 1
From: Florida
If you cut the entire metal part of the rear deck out, you need to re-support it somehow. Put two small crossmembers from the bottom of the window to the top of the seatbacks. Just something like that to make it stable again.
SR
SR
Lexus Champion
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: California
A dremel will take you a few days and 100 cutting discs to cut that back deck.
Maybe a Rotozip may fair better.. Air Nibbler would be my choice.
Good luck on 12's. You will need to pull the gas tank or the rear glass to make those work.
MW
Maybe a Rotozip may fair better.. Air Nibbler would be my choice.
Good luck on 12's. You will need to pull the gas tank or the rear glass to make those work.
MW
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 1,130
Likes: 1
From: \
kind of off topic, well... not really. but does anyone have a picture of the trunk of that sc that had a hard floor (with the Lexus symbol over the removeable section for the spare tire)?
I want to do my trunk similiar since I might go NAWS (
) and have the bottle back there... and since I'll have the bottle back there i might as well make it look nice and redo the subwoofer setup.
... and for you search wh***s that say there is a search button, i know that, i tried it and NO LUCK. I searched through dozens of SC pictures and still no luck so before you get on my back about searching ... well, I searched
maybe someone else might have better luck or might actually know.
thanks,
nick
I want to do my trunk similiar since I might go NAWS (
) and have the bottle back there... and since I'll have the bottle back there i might as well make it look nice and redo the subwoofer setup.... and for you search wh***s that say there is a search button, i know that, i tried it and NO LUCK. I searched through dozens of SC pictures and still no luck so before you get on my back about searching ... well, I searched
maybe someone else might have better luck or might actually know.thanks,
nick
Last edited by hellasboy; Jul 23, 2002 at 09:58 PM.
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Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 642
Likes: 0
From: International
I am concerned that some will read this and just rush out to the car and chop out the rear deck to make way for bigger subs, you have to consider why is the rear deck a strange convoluted shape and not just flat?
The answer is - This section is designed to complete the structural integrity of the shell using the minimum amount of metal. You cannot just remove the whole shelf or cut-out large areas without weakening this area and possibly inducing flex in the rear side panels. In some cases this would apply more stress to the window aperture causing the glass to fail, both the front and rear screens are structural components with finite limits.
When you remove or alter material that is there to assist in the body integrity you have to consider that reinforcing the area will be required, a false deck made from 3/4" fiberboard securely fastened over the the area would normally replace the lost strength or welding in braces from side to side with a few crossbraces under the original deck and dont forget your subs will perform better if they have a SOLID mounting.
The answer is - This section is designed to complete the structural integrity of the shell using the minimum amount of metal. You cannot just remove the whole shelf or cut-out large areas without weakening this area and possibly inducing flex in the rear side panels. In some cases this would apply more stress to the window aperture causing the glass to fail, both the front and rear screens are structural components with finite limits.
When you remove or alter material that is there to assist in the body integrity you have to consider that reinforcing the area will be required, a false deck made from 3/4" fiberboard securely fastened over the the area would normally replace the lost strength or welding in braces from side to side with a few crossbraces under the original deck and dont forget your subs will perform better if they have a SOLID mounting.
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I totally agree. So far I have cut out only a 13"x 12" section in the middle. I'm going back and forth on the (2) JL IB4's or a single Dyn MW 190. Right now I'm really leaning toward the Dyn since my sytem is really set up for SQ. I will make a decision later this week and then post pics of the back deck. As far as cutting goes, AIR NIBBLER. Only way to go. With what I have cut out so far, the integrity of the deck is still fine. Once I screw the 3/4 MDF to the back deck and dynomat, it will probably be stronger than the sheet metal. Will keep everyone posted.
Shane
Shane
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