Alternate door handle fix...
So I purchased a 95 SC400 last month because it was an awesome deal and I could not pass it up. The guy was up front with me and told me what the problems were, one of them being a non-functioning outer driver's door handle.
When I got the car home, I jumped onto the internet to get an idea of what had to be done for a fix, and came across this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...iy-w-pics.html
So like many others on that thread, I took the door panel off and found the lock actuator's arm at the bottom of the inside of the door, broken.
I went ahead and ordered the plastic part using the part number found in the thread above but when it came time to install the piece it just wouldn't stay. I tried the zip-tie way but it didn't work at all. Then, I noticed someone else had started a thread (found here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...anism-arm.html)
While this appeared to be a great fix, my problem (like so many other people) was that I did not have a welder. I then borrowed from the dimensions given in the second thread and created a "screw-on fix."
I ended up using a 3/32 drill bit for metal, attached to my Dremel and at med-low speed (around 12,000 rpm). This was done to avoid burning the tip.
I drilled the holes on the small area / surface of the arm, right above the "break." (see pic below)
I then took some sheet metal that I purchased at Home Depot for $5, and sketcked the dimensions of the "new" fork onto it. I then proceeded to cut it out with my Dremel using some metal cutting wheels. I went through approx. 3 cutting wheels to do the sheet metal cut job.
Then, I placed the arm, drilled with two holes, onto the sheet metal cut-out, and marked the holes with a felt-tip marker so that I could cut out the two corresponding holes onto the sheet metal.
I then used a 3/32 machine screw, and nut, in the hole that is more centered in the middle, and used only a 3/32 screw in the higher-most hole. I did not use a nut here because a)there was no room to put it on, b) the drilled hole was tight enough where the screw was securely in place, and c)this screw is only used as a way to keep the arm and new piece from pivoting.
I used red thread sealer with both screws.
Anyhow, the pics should speak for themselves, but let me know if you have questions.
When I got the car home, I jumped onto the internet to get an idea of what had to be done for a fix, and came across this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...iy-w-pics.html
So like many others on that thread, I took the door panel off and found the lock actuator's arm at the bottom of the inside of the door, broken.
I went ahead and ordered the plastic part using the part number found in the thread above but when it came time to install the piece it just wouldn't stay. I tried the zip-tie way but it didn't work at all. Then, I noticed someone else had started a thread (found here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...anism-arm.html)
While this appeared to be a great fix, my problem (like so many other people) was that I did not have a welder. I then borrowed from the dimensions given in the second thread and created a "screw-on fix."
I ended up using a 3/32 drill bit for metal, attached to my Dremel and at med-low speed (around 12,000 rpm). This was done to avoid burning the tip.
I drilled the holes on the small area / surface of the arm, right above the "break." (see pic below)
I then took some sheet metal that I purchased at Home Depot for $5, and sketcked the dimensions of the "new" fork onto it. I then proceeded to cut it out with my Dremel using some metal cutting wheels. I went through approx. 3 cutting wheels to do the sheet metal cut job.
Then, I placed the arm, drilled with two holes, onto the sheet metal cut-out, and marked the holes with a felt-tip marker so that I could cut out the two corresponding holes onto the sheet metal.
I then used a 3/32 machine screw, and nut, in the hole that is more centered in the middle, and used only a 3/32 screw in the higher-most hole. I did not use a nut here because a)there was no room to put it on, b) the drilled hole was tight enough where the screw was securely in place, and c)this screw is only used as a way to keep the arm and new piece from pivoting.
I used red thread sealer with both screws.
Anyhow, the pics should speak for themselves, but let me know if you have questions.
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I was gonna attempt something like this but even more ghetto using toothpicks and just tape! I think two sheets would of been more secure.
The reason why keeps "breaking/ popping" off is because when you open the door from the inside that rod that connects to the door goes down.
The reason why keeps "breaking/ popping" off is because when you open the door from the inside that rod that connects to the door goes down.
I still have a few Pieces of the Part that broke off. I just got the clips today to redoo both doors as both of my exterior handles broke the plastic in the last week. I am hopeing that mine has enough of the original for to Make the lever work. Nice write up and simple fix. Now i have to figure out how to get in the car with no working outerdoor handle's.
I'd be willing to pay for a rod - either home-made or factory. Anyone have one they want to sell? The bottom half of my rod is broken, and I cannot get that bottom screw on the window off to remove the whole assembly. The screw appears to be stripped, so it would just be easier to replace just the rod in my situation.
I welded Some steel onto the rod of mine. Everything works fine just make sure you make them atleaast an inch long on each side as it is a funny lever and the handle has some play in it which makes the rod move up and not just push down. Right when i got the other one put in the section of the original piece that broke fell into the door bottom. I wish i would have had this piece to weld on but who cares it works now... wahoo
I had the same issue with my rear window track. I drilled the head off and then easy-outed what was left of the screw.
I'd be willing to pay for a rod - either home-made or factory. Anyone have one they want to sell? The bottom half of my rod is broken, and I cannot get that bottom screw on the window off to remove the whole assembly. The screw appears to be stripped, so it would just be easier to replace just the rod in my situation.





