project:Soarer
[media]http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t493/supersayianjim2/project%20scorer%202/newacorings.jpg[/media]
so heres some pics and comparisons of the sc300 condensor from a 94 and from a earlier model(with the red o-rings).



the 94 can is on the right

and here's the condensor, looks the same but really not.

well i was wroking on gently and carefully
bending the ac pipes to fit.

kinks are bad for business.
the pita was getting these pipes around the intercooler pipes. And here they are buttoned up.

-sc400 lines with a 2jz swap of any kind will work to an extent
-you must use your same year condensor lines to make it work. you can use the same condensor and firewall port. but if in a sc400 you need the 300 lines from the condensor to the firewall.
this was a pita but almost over.
now in other news.
so ive been all over the place trying to get this damn car situated. finally got it running and the engine in. so took a test drive in this vid. heres was the status during shooting
-not sure if o2 sensor was hooked up. i spliced it to make it longer so maybe i effed up on that
-no downpipe off the turbo/no exhaust
-no hood
-stock fuel pump
-hc1/hx35 with a super laggy 18cfm hotside
feels like it's slow as shat. i didn't get into 5th gear. but there was just no "oh ****" pull
iam thinking i might have a wastegate port plugged that shouldn't be plugged??

This AC has kicked his butt.. I dont know why his is much more difficult than mine with the same swap. I used SC300 lines from the fireewall to the compressor, I just changed the o rings and receiver dryer, and had it charged. No leaks or anything..
Hang in there man...
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
is that theres like never a response or takes forever to get an answer to things. i asked about the flow of this particular housing before
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160862296038...84.m1438.l2648
and of course none answered me. i know there are 17,000 1jz threads on here now. but if you have some useful input AFTER I PAYED FOR THE DAMN PART. Save me some coin next time and shoot me an answer before i buy parts...
kthanksbye
is that theres like never a response or takes forever to get an answer to things. i asked about the flow of this particular housing before
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160862296038...84.m1438.l2648
and of course none answered me. i know there are 17,000 1jz threads on here now. but if you have some useful input AFTER I PAYED FOR THE DAMN PART. Save me some coin next time and shoot me an answer before i buy parts...
kthanksbye

What do you mean the climate control didn't work??
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
Last edited by cartmill; Aug 20, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
i've been avoiding reading through your thread and posting all the things you are doing wrong, because nobody likes "that guy," and "that guy" usually ends up looking like an *******. we have posted lots of info in your thread. i legitimately feel bad for you at this point, so i'm going to post some failures i noticed with your enormous project -- the enormous project that you're expecting to be plug-n-play or something.
1. you shouldn't be driving around and attempting to boost with no downpipe on the turbo discharge. are you aware that fiery exhaust comes out of that big hole where you can see the turbine wheel? this is stupid.
2. your ebay link there to the .63 housing --- looks good, do it. but i'd recommend doing some research on how turbo sizing works before you spend any more money. i was also just thinking, can you close the hood with that monster turbine housing and your 2" adapter/spacer to match it to your T4 manifold? maybe that .63 T3 housing will allow you to close the hood.
3. your wastegate "bridge" needs to have a flex piece in it, and it needs to flow ALONG WITH the downpipe exhaust. the perpendicular recirc you put in there (it looks like it's even pointing the wrong way slightly) is going to make your downpipe exhaust create a slight "blocking" effect and not let your wastegate exhaust easily flow out. the way you have that welded, with the backwards angle, is going to actually make the downpipe exhaust push your wastegate exhaust back IN a little, so when you start making power (if?) your boost may raise slightly and/or be completely uncontrollable.
4. did you drill your oil pan for the turbo oil drain with the oil pan INSTALLED? this is what n00bs do. unless you concocted some way to magically remove 100% of the aluminum shavings from the oil pan after drilling that hole, you'll most likely get shavings flowing through your engine. so your oil pressure may drop a little, then your bearings wear a little more, then you're ****ed.
5. did your transmission actually accept all of the transmission fluid through that shifter turret? you know there is a fill hole and a drain hole on the side of the transmission. the tail of the transmission and the gear box of the transmission are generally supposed to be filled separately.
6. do you have the wideband hooked up? you're running a turbine that flows WAY more air than the stockers (even at the same boost) you have no idea how much boost you're running (i'm assuming) and you're running the stock ECU. are you using the stock injectors too?
2. if you haven't seen it i corrected that earlier mistake and got the proper fitting t3 mainfold. it's on the car now and no need for an adapter spacer anymore.
so you are saying the link that i supplied. there would be less lag than the 16cfm housung i have now??
4. i drilled out my oil pan when it was removed when i was cleaning everything up(iam not that much of a noob).
5. yes i did fill the tranny with the specified quarts through the shifter turret
6. yes i do have the wideband hooked up, and i do have stock injectors with stock ecu.


