so i started wrapping the exhaust manifold. not one of my favorite tasks but it had to be done.




there's wrap that you have to soak and some that you don't soak. this is my first exp with the first one..


first i did the individual runners then i wrapped the rest.








came with 50 feet and i had extra left over if i wanted to finish the dp..





and there are the bolts that needed cut/trimming. the 2 most rear lower studs needed trimming for a flush fit. also the wastegate flange needed to be cut and clocked to face the dp. not too terrably bad for $160.00 but defietnly not a perfect fit.

 

my wastegate needed some trimming.




it was just resting on the oil alum barely. so i decided to grind it down a little.




and heres the finished result.





it was just on these 2 fins. so now there is a gap between that and the oil pan which what i was aiming for.


so went to the junkyard and scroed this lucky find for almost nothing!!!





they WERE on the 94-94 avalons only!! I keep finding model years from 96+. but i really lucked out on this one.. also picked up a 95 corolla 5 spd shift ****(grey) and that fit my sc w58. i also picked up a nissan 5spd shifter boot to fabb up for the sc.

 

so my mk4 jdm supra seats came!!!





hard to get, but perfect fit.





since they are real jdm seats, the power seat(yes only one) is on the passenger side..





now i have to say compared to the sc3/4 seats..... well there is no comparison. these seats are prob less than half the weight of the boat ancors of seats i chopped up last week(and iam talking about the power one).

they sit low which is good for me. and are in great condition for $340 shipped.(go ebay)

iam going to remove the skins and throw them in the washer this week(hopefully).

so wiring up the passenger seat because it is power and i wan't to keep it working won't be hard.





yes it does work. what WILL be hard is splicing them into the usdm harness(or will it be)??





vs usdm plug

 

so lubbing up my turbo to bump nasties again.








and iam running my oil feed line on the engine puller bracket thingy. and showing my support for breast cancer(save the big ta-tas)





and as it sits now!!!

 

that zip tie will probably melt, being so close to the turbo manifold flange. i would run that oil feed line differently. it's also never a good idea to leave those braided oil feed lines resting metal on metal against something solid like that hoist hook. my friend's turbo miata had a braded oil feed line resting like that and it rubbed through and started squiring oil all over the place.

and that rubber oil drain hose will boil up there are the top where it's sitting next to the turbine inlet flange. if you're going to use rubber hose anywhere near the manifold for that oil drain, it's going to need some reflective sleeving. that inlet flange will get red hot and boil the rubber pretty easily.

 

will that downpipe clear the firewall? cause that is crazy high. unless u already test fitted it inside the car already.

 

also make sure that turbo oil drain doesn't flatten out before it makes it down to the oil pan.
i would have gone with a *45 down there at the bottom to keep the hose at more of an angle, but you may be able to just shorten your hose a little bit.

 

Like Cartmill already said run the feed line from the outiside, line is on the driver side bring it to the passenger side.

Get the DEI sleeving on it and the hose is too long .by the time you get sleeve just get the braided line and fittings and make your own return line.

And please gte a USDM water pump .

 

oh, yeah, i didnt notice the aristo water/ps pump contraption. yeah that needs to go.


and max, don't think we're just being nitpicky. a few of us have done 100% of this stuff before. seemingly little things like we're mentioning will absolutely come back to bite you in the ***.

 

My buddy actually did a single turbo setup on his car and car got totalled by the insurance company after it caught on fire twice, while he was driving to get the exhaust done then on the way back from the exhaust shop.

i learned from his mistakes, don't know how to do a fuel system , don't know how to run a return line .That engine bay was fried the intake manifold looked like an aluminum foil ...the return line touched the manifold then oil on the header wrap that's what started the fire and then the battery dropped on the manifold since it's a GS and everything under that hood was cooked before the fire department.

take your time and get the right stuff and do it once for all, don't try to cut corners because you will hate yourself if anything happens.

gl

 

Good for you bud, this looks great!

I really like that you vented the waste gate back in as well, kudo's!

 

That's fine. Feedback is always welcomed. Dei sleve will be here tomorrow. I ordered it weds. So thE steal line will get a hole from the friction or the heat?

 

I will get a tt water pump, along with a radiator, thermostat, fuel line etc. I have a parts list of 2,500 beans to complete. So this isn't going to be moving anytime soon. I have to pop 1,200 before I can even drop the engine in. So yeah. It's not done, and if it dosent clear the fw I have to make some alternative.

 

The braded hoses will just get rubbed through by any sharp edge of steel. Its of course more dense than something softer like aluminum, but anything else that's steel or iron (like that hoist hook) with a sharp edge will cut through that braded hose eventually. This is mostly because of the friction, but the heat surely wouldn't help.

 

hey i still need an answer on this people. and cm and others check out my other thread..

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...up-thread.html

post pics of setups.. might cut and just weld the t3 flange and get rid of adapter.