Before I get bashed on I've searched and find some alike symptoms but not exact. I just did a 2jz swap and everything went good. The car had been riding fine for about 4 days with no issue, then all of a sudden the cluster shut off like it lost power but the car was still running. After it powered back on, the car was riding a bit more and it started to loose all the power at a red light and (Battery) signal lights up on the dash, also noticed when I accelarate the dash (Battery) dash light goes away. After a lil more driving the car has a bad idle and dies out. Battery and alternator have been check by the local auto parts and seem to be 100%. Checked for grounds the were put new when swapped and everything seems fine. Has anyone had this type of issue after a swap? Help please!

 

how old is the battery? if its old at all just replace it. when you acclerate you are working the alternator up and should smooth out. sitting at the light if you have a lot of drain your alternator may not be able to cut it for long. really just a guess here so don't hold me to anything. ive had batteries that they say are "ok" but they are really about to die completely.

 

The battery is 3 months old, I just had the batter tested and recharged by a auto parts. Alt was tested twice at 100%. I dont know what to do anymore.

 

does the swap have a voltage regulator? long shot but i would think for the battery light to come on it would have to have low voltage or high voltage occuring.

 

Checked yesterday and everything was on point with voltage. Just got the alt and battery tested again and everything is good. Is getting frustrating.

 

You can't trust these auto parts store to diagnose your problems all the time. I was a manager at an auto store and the machine lies to us all the time.

I guess we have to use process of elimination to figure this problem.

Does it run when the battery is completly charged? If it runs, you need a multi-meter or voltmeter to measure the car battery while it's running. Your voltage should be between 13.5-15.5v if your alternator is working correctly.

Is the alternator from your old car? if it is, was it working? this will help eliminate any other possibilities.

Did you use the harness that came with the new engine or did you use your old harness?

Also, you need to check to make sure your main B+ power wire that is connected to your fuse box is tighten down. The fuse box is black, under the hood on driver side with 2 plastic screws. Check your ground points again to make sure you at least have contacts from engine to chassie, chassie to battery, and battery to engine to reduce resistances.

 

The auto parts store local to me uses the same GR-8 battery tester we are required to use at Nissan. Sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere or a bad ground i would ohm out all your grounds even though they are new.

 

Got it solved....I said screw this and took out the alternator out and had check by a rebuilder. I found out that the spindle type thing that goes across the whole alternator has a small metal like contact that generates power when it makes contact. The metal piece does contact with the spindle was grinding threw due to oil going in the alternator.

I hope this can help someone incase this issue happens to them. At times alternators can be tested and be good but it dies out lil by lil.

 

nice find. i never trust those 2 tests. i feel like they say good until the battery/alternator takes its final breath.