Thank you Studiogeek for the heads up. I think in my case the screws are just missing. What puzzled me is that I could not pound the brake disk loose.

 

I did both front hubs and bears on my SC last month. What I did was remove the entire knuckle from all control arms and tie rod end, purchased the hubs and bearings online and brought the knuckle and new parts into a local shop and had them do the rest, $50 per side for a total of $100 plus parts.

 

es30000000, I was considering going the same route and got the parts. Then I saw this 6 ton press at Harbor Freight for 60 bucks. so I thought what the heck. It would keep me from shopping around for a machine shop and making a couple of trips, dropping off an picking up(not having a car). But before I make another attempt, in view that is such a ***** to do, I want to make damn sure I made a correct diagnosys. From inside the car I cannot make out where the whine/growl is coming from.

I'll be back, but don't hold your breath.

 

Simple way to diagnose is to jack the car up and turn the wheels with your hands. If the wheel rotates just fine then it is ok but if you hear a bit of rubbing noise alternating in a regular fashion then you have a problem with the bearing. Goodluck

 

Thank you Edinlexv8, I did that but no noise. So with the front jacked up, I started the engine and nudged the gas paddle down with a brick to get some RPM. You can stop one wheel at a time to listen to the one that is running. Both left and right were really noisy. Now I am deciding to replace the shafts as well since I will have everything apart. The only thing that's left is getting in the mood.

 

Excellent post sir, thanks for that. I just found that a small drop of oil right behind the axle hub, that is, on the oil seal, effectively got rid of all the resonating, speed independent and brake independent noises that have been coming out of the wheel. Just wanted to share that as a shiny beacon in noisy days, or otherwise a statue of a hopeless hobbyist.

Cheers y'all and don't give up fighting those noises.

 

I believe this is my issue, I hear this droning sound between 20 - 60 mph. I gave an 08 ES 350 with 90000 miles. how much would something like. cost at the dealership?

 

Love your quote about the Hot Girl with Herpes, Syphilis, and AIDS... Looks good, but for ****'s sake don't touch her!

That's the same way I feel about my 2000 RX300


A. Bear

 

Thanks for posting this. I have a slight noise from the right front side when turning hard to the left. If it turns out I need a bearing there I'll probably just buy a junkyard knuckle as an assembly for under $30 and gamble on it being good.

Each bearing and associated misc parts are about $85-100 per side with OEM parts then the shop labor which starts at roughly $70 minimum to do anything in my neighborhood even if I just took them the knuckle and my parts.

Shame on Toyota for not just making the entire hub/bearing one sealed unit that bolts into the spindle like on many cars. It's literally a 30 minute job on that setup with no special tools required. The spindle does not even need to come out of the car!

 

In retrospect, this did not work permanently, but it did indicate the root of the problem, which was the oil seal. Its rubber had disintegrated, and the spiral band inside the oil seal was on the metal axle which must have caused the harmonics. A new oil seal solved the problem; the bearing itself was still perfect. Not having a press, I used the freezer for the axle and the kitchen oven at 180 C for the near side bearing ring to get it together again, a method I'd recommend!

A note of warning: be extra careful with removing the axle nut. I damaged the thread when I hammered out the indented part of the axle nut, and it turn it damanged the axle thread when I put it back on. I know it's recommended to always replace the nut, but I could not lay my hands on a new one without buying a new bearing. I took a LOT of time cleaning up the threads again.

 

I kept postponing that dreaded bearing job until one day the RR tire got punctured by a peace of steel and I had to put the spare tire on.
I was due for new tires so I bought four new tires mounted and balanced.
Here comes the crazy part. On the way home I suddenly became aware that that loud "bearing noise" was gone. Total silence! I have worked long enough on cars to know that that noise was not caused by my tires. (See my post #20 above.) There I described that the noise was there even without the tires hitting the pavement, but one wheel rotating when the other one was blocked.

So I'm thinking, did one tire have a larger circumference than the other, causing noise from the differential? Any thoughts on this anybody? If it is the differential, and it should not be noisy, what should be done to fix it.

BTW. A nice tutorial on the differential:*****://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4JhruinbWc. How Differential Gear works (BEST Tutorial)

 

EXACTLY what i was looking for!!

 

I found a few twists to the job. If you have a good puller, you can avoid the cutting of the outside inner race:




Pull inner race instead of cutting

I also found that it was easier to press this race on before inserting into the housing. You just have to press the inside inner race in but leave some room, then using a screwdriver or small pry bar push the seal into the housing, then finish pressing the race in (from the nut side). This keeps you from having to press against the new bearing for the entire length of the hub shaft.

As others have said, this job isn't for someone without access to a lot of tools and work space. It takes a good afternoon to do it.

Tools:
19mm socket
17mm socket
22mm wrench
10mm wrench
Ball joint puller
Needle nose pliers
36mm socket (or 1-3/8" standard 6 point, yes this works fine)
1/2" pneumatic impact
Hydraulic press
Chisel
Hammer
Screwdriver
Large socket to fit against outer race for pressing out and in (1-3/4 impact style or 1-7/8 regular socket)

Parts:
Front:
Bearing Timken 510017 $34.99, National $36.89 SKF FW149 $50.76 on RockAuto
Seal $7.95 90311-50008 on toyotapartsdeal.com
or
$7.99 Toyota OEM on Driftmotion
Rear:
Bearing Timken 511007 $65.79, National $54.79 on Rock Auto
Seals Inner $14.30 90311-63001, Outer $11.10 90311-57001 on toyotapartsdeal.com
or
Seals Inner $7.99, Outer $7.99 Toyota OEM on Driftmotion

 

Great post thanks!!

 

Is it good idea to change the hub with already bearing pressed in. How much I should pay yo shop if I want them to press out and press in bearing in my old hub?