scviolence

iTrader: (17)

hey guys and girls i was wondering if anyone could help me out. i have a viper 5901 im trying to install on a 95 lexus sc300 w/ factory alarm. i know i need the bypass module for the factory alarm. im in the navy and work on ea6b prowlers as an electronics tech... i deal with 115vac , 28 vdc 26 vac etc all day...you get the point.... lol maybe its just me but i dont get what goes where from the viper diagrams. so i was wondering if anyone could, whenever they get some time, hook me up with a simple what goes where like " h1 harness p1 goes to black 26 pin @sjb" something like that. if anyone can help i'd really appreciate it. thanx in advance. (i'm a DIY guy and best buy wants 300 to install it....so yeah i want to diy)
-David



this is the connections list from 12volt.com for a 95 sc300...

Constant 12V+ White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Pink/Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Black Igniter, Passenger's Fender
Brake Switch Green/White Brake Switch
Trunk Release Black (+) 2 Pin Black Conn. in Driver's Kick Panel
Trunk Pin Red/White (-) Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Dark Green Driver's Kick Panel White Connector
Head Lamp Red/Yellow (+) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm Green (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Red/White (-) Below Fuse Panel White Connector
Door Lock Red/Black 20 Pin Blue Connector
Door Unlock Green In Driver's Kick
Horn Wire Green/Red (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Green/Yellow, RF=Red/Blue
Windows Down LF=Red, RF=Green/White

this is the list of wires from viper alarm installation guide..why are there so much more wires on the harness than whats listed on the car install list like why is there a positive and negative door trigger and a door lock harness lol which one do i actually use??.
Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector\

H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/1 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT
H1/1 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT
H1/2 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT

➢ Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector
LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
LIGHT GREEN/WHITE (-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
BROWN/BLACK (-) 200Ma HORN HONK OUTPUT
There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including
the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
12 © 2008 Directed Electronics. All rights reserved.

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
H3/3ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL)
H3/5GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
H3/6RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/7PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
H3/8PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY
H3/9RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
H3/1NC (no connection) NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT





➢ Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
Note: Wires 1 - 4 on the remote auxiliary outputs are wired to the (-) triggers for
© 2008 Directed Electronics. All rights reserved. 13
the onboard remote start relays and are not diode isolated. If connecting these
wires directly to the vehicle you must place a 1-amp diode in line to prevent
feedback from the vehicle.

➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT

phrozen

iTrader: (2)

➢ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay)
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT = White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT = Red wire on siren
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND = Make a good ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white wire in drivers running board
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off

➢ Auxiliary harness (H2), 8-pin connector DONT NEED THIS HARNESS AT ALL
H2/1 LIGHT GREEN/
BLACK
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM DISARM OUTPUT
H2/2 LIGHT GREEN/
WHITE
(-) 200mA FACTORY ALARM ARM OUTPUT
H2/3 WHITE/VIOLET (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT
H2/4 VIOLET/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT
H2/5 WHITE/BLACK (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT
H2/6 LIGHT BLUE (-) 200mA 2ND UNLOCK OUTPUT
H2/7 GRAY/BLACK (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT
H2/8 BROWN/BLACK (-) 200Ma HORN HONK OUTPUT

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Black/yellow ignition harness
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 = White/red ignition harness
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT = pink/blue ignition harness
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT = Black/orange ignition harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY = Cut short and tape off
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/10 NC (no connection)
NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT = Hook up to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE = Your choice if u want to hook up u can use "voltage/virtual tach setting"
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE = Green/white at brake switch behind pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT = Find a good location for the provided hoodpin (usually somewhere on the radiator support area, clean surface of paint where mounting switch so it can make ground. also needs to be fully depressed when the hood is closed but not stop the hood from fully closing. sometimes you have to drill a hole to mount the pin switch if there is not a premade hole on the radiator suppor area.)
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT = Cut short and tape

➢ Remote start auxiliary output, 5-pin DO NOT NEED HARNESS AT ALL
1 PINK/WHITE (-) 200mA FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT
2 ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT
3 VIOLET (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT
4 PINK (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT
5 BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT

➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green/yellow pass kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green/white pass kick panel


You should really read through the whole manual and it explains how each wire works on each of the harnesses and also how to hook it up in a car and also test the possible wire in the car using a dmm/dvom. i copied the harnesses from a pdf file and added the wire color and location and also noted if the wire was needed or not. i highly recomend reading the manual though you will learn alot from it and understand how to install an alarm instead of just matching up colors.

the only wire you will be cutting in half is the starter wire. the heavy gauge green wire will be going towards the "key" side of the wire the black or purple heavy gauge wire will be going out towards the "starter" side. The rest of the wires in the car will be tapped into either using solder and tape or using a pick poking a hole through the middle of the strands of wire, taking the wire coming off the alarm and stripping it back about 2" and feeding it through the hole and wrapping it around then taping it.

After you have everything hooked up, you need to program the alarm into Automatic mode. its pretty simple. open the drivers door granted that your door trigger wire is hooked up correctly. turn the key to the on position press and hold the button on your antenna till you hear it beep 3 times, once it beeps let go and press it twice and hold, while holding hit unlock on your remote and then turn the key to ignition then all the way off

One last thing 3m super 33+ electrical tape is your best friend.

Scotty

iTrader: (13)

Also... If you want your steering wheel to tilt down when you remote start the car make sure you connect the vehicle keysense wire to one of the status output wires. I don't remember the wire color on the vehicle side, but I believe it's the only 18 Awg wire coming out of the ignition switch harness. Just use your multimeter to test. When the key is in the ignition the wire will rest at ground.

One last thing, If you normally leave your headlights in the on or auto position and want them shut off after the remote start times out (only applies if no one enters the car) you will need to will need to add a relay that triggers the door pin after the remote start shuts down. If you don't add this you can end up with the headlights on after the remote start shuts down. I can make up a diagram for this if you need it, it only matters of the remote start is accidentally triggered or you decide after remote starting to cancel it.

Just be careful and test every wire before making any connections. Also if you want to add alarm window control I wrote this DIY a while back.

scviolence

iTrader: (17)

hey you guys are awesome. i really appreciate the help...@ phrozen im def gonna read the book while im doing it just so like you said i can learn. first time for everything. @ scotty thanks for the advice. im prolly gonna look into that window mod...

scviolence

iTrader: (17)

SO I DID IT!!!! lol i finally got a chance to install this thing....yeah i will admit it was not a walk in the park especially since half the diagrams i online were half right lol...well if you follow these steps here i can tell you for a fact you car will start like it suppose to, and lock and unlock and do everything lol.....BUT!!! i still have yet to figure out 2 things if anyone can help out it would be greatly appreciated..


1.) H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch got down there and and ther is about 3 green wires tried them all none worked..... idk...

2.)H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay) http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008_08web.pdf okay theres the link can someone please explain page 14 in barney terms...lol fill in the blanks for me...

contact 85= h1/1 red/white
contact 86=+12v constant fused
contact 87=____________(idk something to do with the black or blue being + or -)
contact 30=____________(black or blue not sure)


Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 RED/WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT = blue at trunk release switch ( need a relay refer to manual that explains why and how to wire up relay)
H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT = White/Red Ignition Switch Harness
H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT = Red wire on siren
H1/4 WHITE/BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND = Make a good ground
H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white wire in drivers running board
H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT = Red/white drivers kick panel below fuse box
H1/9 BLACK/WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/10 WHITE/BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off
H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT = Green (-) located @ steering column @ switch
H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT = Cut to about 3" long and tape off

➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT Black/yellow ignition harness
H3/2 RED/WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 = White/red ignition harness
H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT = PINK/BLUE FOR PRE 95
(RED FOR 95+) ignition harness
H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) = Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT = Black/orange ignition harness
H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX
RELAY = Cut short and tape off
H3/9 RED/BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT = White/red ignition harness
H3/10 NC (no connection)
NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector
1 BLACK/WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT = Hook up to ground
2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE = BLACK ON IGNITOR
(DRIVER FENDER, NOT THE IGNITION COIL ON PASSENGER SIDE)
3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE = Green/white at brake switch behind pedal
4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT = Find a good location for the provided hoodpin (usually somewhere on the radiator support area, clean surface of paint where mounting switch so it can make ground. also needs to be fully depressed when the hood is closed but not stop the hood from fully closing. sometimes you have to drill a hole to mount the pin switch if there is not a premade hole on the radiator suppor area.)
5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT = Cut short and tape


➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector
1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT = green driver kick panel
2 EMPTY NOT USED
3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT = red/black driver kick panel
(blue 20 pin connector is used for both)

Scotty

iTrader: (13)

Good job. I think I spent about 6 hours doing my 99 SC but I was extremely picky about wire management and wire loomed everything.

For question #1 I used a positive green parking light wire in the driver kick. You'll just need to move the 5901 fuse to the positive parking light output position and test for the park light wire in the kick panel as there will also be a couple green wires down there.

For #2 I don't recall needing a relay to trigger trunk release as the factory switch just drives a relay, but it's been a while... I would connect pin 87 to the blue trunk release wire and pin 30 to the other wire in the 2 pin switch harness. This will trigger the trunk release the same way the switch does.

scviolence

iTrader: (17)

yeah 6 hours was about right. i got confused on that pink/blue wire so i did some research in the middle of the install and figured it out lol...95 to be red...anyways yeah im going to have to find that green wire in the kick panel section tommorrow after work...one of the diagrams says its in the drivers running board. its also the diagram that pointed out the change from pin k n blue to red so ill check there first.....

scviolence

iTrader: (17)

1.)im starting to think this damn wire does not exist....lol...i found one wire that was green with lil grey tac marks on it...and they flashed on with the unlock/lock feature ....when i turned the car on they didnt stay on.. then i found a green and yellow wire and a green and black wire..green and black the left signals front and rear flashed green and yelloe the right signals flashed...tried both together fuse blew lol....idk....


2.)this worked like a charm

trunk relay bosch style 30 amp 4 prong relay..3.99

contact 85 - Trunk pop output (h1/1 red/white)
contact 86 - 12v constant
contact 30 - ground
contact 87 - Trunk release wire from switch (black on 2 pin connector from switch)

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

I am bringing up an old thread but it has been helpful and I had a stupid question ha.

First, I haven't committed to installing the 5901 into my 95 sc300(na auto) but I am exploring the idea of it. I pulled the dash trim off to get a look at where the wires I need are at and they all look easy to get to so I am thinking I want to attempt this.

My really dumb question though, above it shows 4 wires all connecting to the same White/red ignition harness wire. To me that seems odd to have 4 wires from the alarm going into the 1 car side wire, is that how it should be or am I misunderstanding the diagram?

megamax

iTrader: (9)

wow. i suck at soldering and this sounds really really complicated. id think iam going to a professional when i get my viper put on.

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I didn't know the SC needed a bypass for the factory alarm? My 93 didn't need one for 5901 install.

av42000

@iwannadie- those are the power inputs to the internal relays in the little relay satellite box, the system is designed as universal and to handle high amounts of current (30A per wire into each relay) that some cars require in order to power their respective circuits (ignition, accessory, second ignition circuits, starter circuit.)

in the case of most toyota/lexus, sc being no exception, theres only one power feed to the ignition harness and all the circuits that need to be powered obviously run off that. but the reason you have to connect almost all of those red & red/whites up is to provide power for all of the remote start output relays in the box, technically one in there remains unused if i remember right but its easier to use all of them that way you dont accidentally eliminate the wrong one and end up missing power to a circuit you need. as far as fusing, it generally isnt an issue if your only using the intended power source for the factory ignition wires since the factory has already fused that source at the correct rating.

BTW- at those past posts reguarding trunk release, a relay is not needed. use the red/white(-) output for trunk connected straight to the wire that comes off of the key cylinder at the trunk. (notice when you turn the key the trunk pops electrically AND disarms the factory alarm too!) that wire does come all the way up to the drivers kick panel iirc. i dont remember the color off hand but it can easily be traced at the connector by the key cylinder at the trunk. it comes off the cylinder one color but changes at the connector that goes into the body harness.

broda805

iTrader: (6)

very tempted to order one and install it soon...... but so many other projects needs to be done still.. haha

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. I was worried tapping all those heavy gauge wires into the one ignition wire but it seems that is perfectly fine. I was thinking about splicing a foot or so of wire into the factory ignition wire to give me room for all the viper splices. The wire is pretty tight and not very long, it looks like I would run out of room fast and it would be easier to splice in a 1' length of wire to work with. Later if I want to remove the alarm I can just pull out my added length of wire, if that makes sense?

For the trunk I was ready to use a relay but I am certainly going to attempt to trace the wire you are talking about.

I took time today to plan out the viper harnesses and bundle the wires into groups and tape off all the un-needed ones. I would rather deal with larger bundles of wires than single wires going the same direction.

Where is a good place to mount the brain and the siren. I was thinking about behind the gauge cluster or glove box and doing everything I can to tuck the wires. Then again, my added Ignition harness wire would be hard to hide...

iwannadie

iTrader: (1)

Another dumb question, can I just splice the 4 power input wires on the viper harness together then tap just 1 wire to the ignition wire? To me that is making sense, I can do 3 clean wire splices on my bench and just make 1 tap under the dash.