So, got a new radiator, thermostat and cap as well as teh good stuff radiator fluid 92 SC400 btw

anyways, I installed everything today and started her up. At first she only took half of the container of fluid and then gradually started to take more. I remember reading that a way to bleed out the system is to leave the cap off w/ the car running. Well, I did that and it gets so hot that it steams and the bubbles will rush out pretty crazily. I put the cap on for a bit, drove a couple blocks to get her warmed up and she sure did!!!! One bar less of the H! haha.


Is this normal? How long am I suppose to let this go on for? Is it suppose to bubble over that violently accompanied by the temp increase?
I've changed radiators out on both my s13 and 14 and they never seemed as complicated as this.
Any input asap would be awesome brosephssssss.

-Brandon

 

Bubble is normal. It gets really hot once the engine warms up. That's why you have an overflow reservoir and a radiator cap with a spring inside. It's there to accommodate the pressure when the system gets hot.

Did you turn on the heater to the hottest setting while you bled the system?

 

Also, try to park so your car is on a bit of a slope with the nose facing up. Like GSteg said, turn on the heater on high, then just fill it while its running. It should take a good 20 mins to fill completely.

 

I didn't do the heater thing but will as soon as it cools down a bit.

Also, when I mean that the bubbles are coming out and that it's spitting out fluid there's no exaggeration.

The fluid jumps out high enough to hit my under hood lining. Too extreme?
I just got back from driving it around after filling it a bit. The temp was going up so I gave it some gas so taht I can coast to my house and as soon as I did it, the temp went down. Thinking I still need to fill it so I'm going to get back at you guys in a couple of hours.
You know, feasting and whatnot. ahaha. Thanks GS and onejay.
Response very soon!

 

Well, went ahead w/ all that you guys said and still over heats.

I'm suspecting that it may be the thermostat not opening.
It's probably a dud just like w/ my alt. and numerous other things I've bought. haha.

So, I'm going to run w/ out a thermostat to see if it is indeed the problem. Just waiting for it to cool down a bit.
tty guys soon.

 

my question is, did you use any type of sealer in the radiator before? and did you flush the motor before you put the new radiator in? the reason im asking was that the car i picked up had a sealer used on it before i came across it. knowing this i was sure to flush the entire motor itself very good to rid it of any extra sealer that might be floating around with nowhere to go but to clog your cap, thermostat, or thermostat by pass hose... its pretty tiny and it need the pressure to flow through that or you will get back pressure and it will make your car run very hot.... anything else it doing?

 

I did flush it out. So, today I removed the thermo to see if maybe I had a dud when in fact I didn't.

A buddy of mine was over helping and he did the lines at the bottom. Is there a possibility that one of the rubber fittings to the lines got switched and wouldn't allow for flow?

 

Supppppp guys.
So, a couple of days ago I had the chance to get under the car w/ it running and found a pretty consistant leak of coolant.
Now, what I dont' get is why it's right under the crank pulley.
If it was the water pump, should it be leaking down the front of the block starting around the thermostat? This is my suspected leak, I'm sure of it. I just can't figure out why it's where it is. Further inspection in accordance with my time.

Thanks guys!

 

It sounds like your water pump is due to be replaced. To clarify there is air bleeder that you need to open up once your done draining the coolant and your ready to fill it up. You can fill it up in both the air bleeder and the cap on the reservoir. Its a 14 or 17mm bolt. Run the car so you can get flow and move any air stuck in the water pump. don't let it run to long though cause it will overflow. There is a return hose going into the thermostat make sure that is not leaking. If it is leaking from the bottom near the center by the crank your water pump is on its way out. No/slow flow will make the car heat up faster then it needs to or possibly overheat. If/when that water pump locks up your in for a world of hurt son. In closing if it has never been done do it along with the pulleys and timing belt. Let me know whats up.

 

Thanks sholexman for the help advice.

I'm not too sure on the history of the car when it comes to those specifics you mentioned replacing, but I'll definitely look into it.
Oh, and I've never noticed the air bleeder. Well, maybe I have but not as that. Around where would it be?
I think I might have it sitting for a bit while I gather cash. Hopefully she'll be up and running soon!!!

 

Sorry to busy thinking of the other things you mentioned that i forgot to mention where the bolt was located. It is on top of the thermostat housing. don't over tighten it cause you will crack the aluminum or strip it out. I added a pic so it can help you out. The black tube in the middle with no hose on it. That bolt is it in the center above it.

http://www.digitalcamera.co.th/forum...1&d=1211459992

 

Thanks for the picture dude, it helped a lot! I would've never suspected that to be a bleeder. hehe. Thanks sholexman!
Still gathering funds.....

 

sounds like the bleeder is not what you need to be worried about. My water pump only leaked a few drops, then on a short trip home, dumped the whole cooling system and overheated the engine. Once I finally got to the water pump, found the bearing had come apart, the shaft was just wobbling around in it. This on a '98 SC400 with 92k miles, and very well maintaned. Just a warning, don't let a leaking water pump go. BTW, this is not a fun job, but if you have the shop manual, not bad, just follow the steps.
Good luck!

 

ckoax, I realize that the bleeder isn't my problem but I thought it useful anyways. Thanks for the input, it leaks pretty steadily and will dry out the coolant in a matter of a few blocks. Considering my last two s-chassis cars, I know when not to move a car.
Water pump failure is basically paralysis of my car for me unlike the clueless people who think they can get away! :P :P Thanks for the input!

 

DUDES!!!!

I finally got my car back on the road.

Just changed pretty much the whole cooling system...well the major parts anyway.
radiator, thermo, cap, water pump and various seals and timing chain.

Sick. Glad to be back on the road w/ her. She drives just as awesome as I remember.