Decided to delete my ABS to save some weight and to possibly improve braking performance. Thought I'd share since I couldn't find a write up on the subject but have seen a few people interested in doing it.

Should be noted that this is on my 95 SC400. I'm sure that most other years (and likely even the SC300) are the same or similar.

Overview: This is an incredibly easy thing to do. There are two lines coming off the master cyl that go to the abs and trac modules on the passenger side of the car. The line going to the smaller of the two modules is for the REAR brakes, the line going to the larger of the two modules is for the FRONT brakes. There are several lines coming out of the larger module, the four nearest the top are the lines that go to each wheel and, they are labeled. FR is front right, RL is rear left, ect..... It's pretty easy to figure out, I followed the lines to make sure I knew what was what.

So, basically you have 6 lines (front line, rear line and 4 to the wheels) that need to be connected. The front line needs a t to the two front wheels and the rear line needs a t to the two rear wheels. Pretty much as simple as that!

Also pictured is the pile of stuff removed. I haven't yet had a chance to weigh anything but let me tell you, that's one heavy Rubbermaid.

Weight of ABS / TRAC system components:

My rubbermaid with everything in it + cruise control ECU and some lines not weighed seperate = 43lbs
ABS / TRAC hydrualic module with bracket = 20lbs
TRAC pump and accumulator with bracket = 13lbs
TRAC / ABS ECU = 2.5lbs
CC ECU = .75lbs
TRAC motor (on throttle body) = 1.5lbs
TRAC throttle body cover = about .5lbs

The weight of the lines and the rubbermaid container itself account for the other 4-5 lbs.

KC

 

Picuted is what I used for the connections. There are six 7 inch stainless -3an lines. Two -3an t's and 6 10mm x 1.0 female to -3an male adapters.

The adapters thread onto the exsisting brake lines allowing the use of -3an lines. The t's are used to make the one front line and one rear line (from the master) connect to the two front lines and two rear lines (to the wheels).

Very simple stuff. Will list part numbers for this stuff a bit later.

Now using all these adapters, lines and t's makes the whole end result look kind of messy. If I were to do this again I would simply find two t's that have female 10mm x 1.0 threads on all sides and put the lines into them directly. The factory lines are very flexible and it would be a much less complicated install this way with less parts and less connections.

If you wanted to get real creative there are other options. One could cut the factory fittings off the lines and install compression fittings with -3an fittings attatched. One could do the same as above but keep the factory fittings and use the above mentioned 10mm x 1.0 t's cutting the lines to make everything shorter and neater looking. There are quite a few options.

 

Some tear down info.

Things I removed.

Traction control module.
ABS module.
Traction pump.
Traction accumulator.
Two lines that go between the ABS / Trac modules and the traction pump / accumulator.
ABS ECU.
Traction motor. On the throttle body.
Four relays in the box on the driver's side.
Two fuses in the main fuse box.
Also in the picture in post one is the cruise control ECU since I removed the cruise control a while ago.

The repair manual is very adamant about releasing the pressure before removing any of the lines. This is done by opening the bleeders on both the TRAC module and on the TRAC accumulator as pictured.

I did not have any fluid come out but better safe than sorry.

 

After removing all of the lines from the ABS / TRAC modules you'll need to bend them upward so that the beast can be removed. By memory, there are three nuts / bolts holding the whole thing down, two of which are accessed from the fender well area. Unbolt everything and unplug all of the connectors and everything will lift right up. Be careful not to hurt your back!

The master cyl needs to be unbolted so that the TRAC pump and accumulator can be removed. Again, there is a nut or two accessed from the fender well area.

Also note that there are two rubber hoses going to the master. One of these hoses goes straight to the accumulator, I took this hose and attatched it to the other port that had a rubber hose connected.

 

After removing it all I simply made the connections! Again, I know it's ugly and I would do it differently if I knew then what I know now.

I spent about 2 hours trying to make it all look neat but there is simply too much line to do so. This is why, if I were to do it agian, I would just use the two metric t's. Then there wouldn't be all the extra hose which isn't really needed anyway.

Don't forget to remove the traction motor on the throttle body. It is held on by three (very tight) screws. The ABS ECU is also no longer needed and easy to remove. With the ECU and all the fuses / relays removed the ABS light DOES NOT come on. Although, I do have the TRAC light on, guess I need to remove the bulb.

 

Now that everything is connected, time to bleed the brakes. I used a vaccum bleeder and sucked two and a half 36oz bottles of brake fluid through it. Then, I had a freind come over and bled it the old fashion way just to be on the safe side.

One last pic.........

P.S. if I have left out any seemingly important information, please let me know. I do not consider myself good at doing write-ups.

 

Be interested for you to get some miles on, and some hard braking. Does the electric motor under the master cyl. get deleted?

 

after pics

 

I have the bad habbit of doing too many things at once. I did drive it one time without changing anything else and it felt good. But, then, I machined my front rotors, installed new rear rotors and put EBC "redstuff" pads on all four corners! I drove it earlier and everything feels great but I don't want to try braking too heavy untill the pads get a chance to bed in.

Does feel good so far though!

KC

 

Your pics. answered my question about the electric motor under the master cyl. Do you think you will redo your connectors without the hosing when you get time? Im surprised to see you still have your trac. throttle body blade potentiometer plugged in, I thought when I unplugged that I was disconnecting my TRAC. control?

 

Yes, everything is removed.

I'd like to say I will redo everything but I'm lazy and probably won't unless I have a problem with it. I don't really care what it looks like as long as it works, that's just me. I am slightly worried that it's all vibrating a little much which might cause fatigue on the metal lines.

I'm pretty sure that unplugging the sub-tps sensor would throw a check engine light, I have so far managed to keep the light off and would like to keep it that way. The motor is removed and I drilled out the throttle blade ages ago, good enough. Can't imagine the sensor itself weighs anything.

I'm not sure how simply unplugging the sensor affects the TRAC. I don't think it would use the throttle motor but it might still use the rear brakes. I had drilled out the throttle plate and pulled the TRAC fuse but am convinced that it would still put on the rear brakes sometimes at the track when I would forget to hit the off button.

KC

 

I unplugged my trac air blade TPS because its the way I thought people were saying to disconnect the TRAC quickly. Still hoping you can tell us the weight loss. Is your car street driven or track car only?

 

Unplugging the TPS might disabe it, not sure, never tried.

I do know that if you drill out the throttle plate, the rear brakes will still work for traction control. I also think that it cuts timing or does something else to kill engine power.

I will eventaully get everything weighed, just haven't had a chance yet.

My car is my daily driver.

KC

 

Can I only remove the Traction control?
I have a Check Engine/TRAC+TRAC OFF light on all the time.
Would deleting this solve my problems?

I'm assuming it's already "broken" and I never have it on anyways. That one burnout really did the trick haha.

And.. how would I go about deleting it?
I'm a little confused about your post since it includes ABS as well.

 

The two systems are tied together hydraulically, I'm not sure that they can be seperated.

They are also tied together electronically, they both share the same ECU.

Again, not sure that they can be seperated. I haven't looked into the idea since my goal was to delete both systems at the same time.

KC