Blkexcoupe thanks for the pics and info. Any specific wattage that he used? Was it pretty easy to open up the housing?

 

I think theres just two screws holding it on

 

2 screws to remove the whole LED assembly and then the lens is glued on, so slowly pry it apart with a screw driver. He just said my LED were 5mm red 15,000mcd only ones I could find on ebay were 5000mcd, so you'll want to get something not as bright as mine because I think my lights are pretty annoying to other drivers.

 

SWEET info ive been wanting to fix this so bad i was gonna buy a aftermarket ebay spoiler with light for like 100bucks jus to get theLED off it if that link i posted didnt work

 

Ok just ordered some replacment red LEDs from DAV-electronics. Not bad .80 a piece. I should get them Monday or Tuesday. Not sure if I can post the link.

 

Mine is starting to give in as well. I should looks into this. What about wiring the lights? Is that hard to do?

 

We definitely need a how-to on this one, esp for those of us not so electronically inclined

 

Agreed. Mine was unplugged when I bought it

 

It is hard to do a how-to on something that varies by spoiler. Not all the same leds burn out on every spoiler, so the problem might be different. I still need to work on mine to figure out why a certain section is not working.

 

Part of yours is not working because I didn't add enough flux to the solder the wires to bond properly. Let me know when you want me to re-do it.

Guys, the problem with most SC spoiler is that the LED casing itself is not sealed tight. Moisture from humidity will accumulate eventually and rust the LED prongs and such. That was the case with Blkexcoupe's light. Only about 5 LEDs had rusted, but it affected the majority of the LEDs due to the fact that they were wired in in a series/parallel configuration.

For those who are going to rebuild theirs, make sure you put some kind of sealant around the openings. I like those bathroom/window sealants for these kind of projects. Dont get permanent glue just because I said so. LOL.

And yes..Blkexcoupe's spoiler is insanely bright .

 

The place I ordered mine from only had 15000mcd Red leds so I'm gonna have that extra lighting when backing up. The gentleman told me that the shorter prong on the LED is the Negative pole correct? As far as sealant, I'm probably going to use a clear silicone RTV. I'm really eager to fix my spoiler light. My SC is flawless except for the spoiler light. I hope the board is in good shape.

 

Yes..the negative pole is the shorter prong.

The only real problem with the circuit board is that the metal strip conducting strip from one LED to another is kind of weak. Be careful with it otherwise you might pull it out or even rip it off. In that case you'll just have to use good ol wires to jump it. You'll see when you open it up.

 

Got my LEDs in and had fun seperating the light housing. GSteg I know what you were talking about, once apart I noticed there was some rust on the power/ground strips. I was able to clean most of it off using alcohol and Q tips. Haven't started soldering the new ones in yet but I'm thinking I'm gonna have to use alot of jumper wires because there are alot of spots where the power strip is missing or appears to be missing. Any other way to repair those power/ground strips besides a bunch of jumper wires?

 

Using jumper wire is the cheapest and easiest way, other than getting a new board which is probably impossible. I used 20 gauge wiring, only because it was all I had. You can go for 24 gauge if you'd like.

Also, MAKE SURE YOU REPLACE THE LEDS ONE AT A TIME!! they are wired in series/parallel so you gotta make note of each LED's orientation otherwise you may have the LED(s) on the wrong polarity.

Good luck!

 

Thanks 4 d pics and info will give it shot